PhilTheGeek

Re-checking I find that I missed that AR was the original part for the Mk1 which was superseded (on 1st June 2010) by the Mk2 BC part. So yours will have been fitted with the AR part but Skoda now supply BC as its replacement (for a bit more than £600. Ouch).

Local owner contacted me with the exact same fault. I have VCDS and diagnosed it as a flat battery in the siren. He changed it and the fault went.

They'll have a used a roots type because they're cheaper to produce and the heat doesn't really matter as there's an intercooler. The turbo heats the air much more and at higher RPM therefore a higher flow rate so the intercooler is comparatively huge for the supercharged part of the rev range.

Disc beams are different from drum beams. Sorry realised my post didn't make that clear.

Part number for the rear beam is the same for disc equipped non-vRS models 6Q0500051AS. For vRS models Mk1 is 6Q0500051AR and Mk2 is 6Q0500051BC. I'm not sure if the difference will be in geometry or stiffness, so if it were me I'd stick with the non vRS version.

Try one of the OEM kits from here:http://www.cars-equipment.com/www/en/shop/bluetooth-kits/ You'll need someone with VCDS to code it up.

Make sure you can find someone who's actually done this on a car without Maxidot. It should work fine but I haven't seen anyone who's done it. I've done mine (with a Maxidot) and coded up a couple of others. If you've already got telephone prep then be warned that the voice activation on the Columbus won't work without additional wiring to route the microphone to the headunit first and then to the telephone unit under the drivers seat.

The latest Octavia uses a different protocol for the buttons. They won't work with the 5J. You'll need the buttons from a facelift (2014-) Superb which I think were also on the Yeti of a similar age.

Assuming you're talking about the vRS then the left one is 5J0807367B and the right one is 5J0807368B. Current price is £6.41 inc VAT each.

Definitely 4 H7s.

If you're going to stick with conventional bulbs the nightbreaker are almost certainly the best. Many of the other "brighter" bulbs push the colour temperature far too high and then just quote the output. The human eye's sensitivity drops off from about 4300K and drops very significantly above 6000K. Blue might look good from a style point of view but it's appalling for you being able to actually see anything. I have been running 35W 4300K HIDs in mine for the last 3 years. Brighter than the nightbreaker and I've had no problems at all come MOT time.

Bit confused. The Audi ignition coil for the A1 185PS has a part number of 036905715G and the Skoda has a part number of 036905715G. i.e. they're the same. Which Audi coil did you use if it wasn't the one for the A1?

If it's hot weather then it won't give a boost of cooling when it would otherwise sense that the sun's beating down through the windscreen and heating the car up. It works out how much cooling is needed right now from the interior temperature sensor and anticipates a temperature rise if the sun comes out. Works brilliantly on the Fabia and a little less well on my 15 year old Land Rover Discovery.

It's nothing to do with the instruments. It's definitely a solar sensor for Climatronic. Don't drill it or cover it up if you've got Climatronic, otherwise it's just a blanking plug in which case do what you wish with it.

I can thoroughly recommend Bilstein B8s. Far more controlled damping than standard. I've got them paired with the Eibachs, others have had very good results with the 40mm H&Rs. Don't expect a Rolls Royce smooth ride but it will be far more composed if a little harsh at times.

My experience is that oil consumption on VW502.00 [5w40] is about a 1/4 of that on VW504.00 [5w30]. I am on fixed [15000km/9320miles] service interval. For some reason services prior to me purchasing it were putting the long life [5w30] oil in despite it being a fixed interval vehicle.

Bumper off. Not too difficult just quite a few torx head screws. Reasonable guide here: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/223019-removing-rear-weights-mk2-fabia-vrs-tsi-hatch-guide/

No. They've got the bump and three horizontal bars. Ones which fit are much flatter.

Were yours definitely estate pro-kit springs? Mine doesn't look quite that low at the rear. (or did you have a full tank of fuel and a boot full?)

No issues with disconnecting the battery. Make sure you disconnect the battery and wait a few minutes before disconnecting the seat connector. When reconnecting the battery you *MUST* have the key in the ignition and turned to position II. At this point leave it for a few minutes and everything will sync up. This is the Skoda method plus a bit of caution on my part and it hasn't failed me (I've probably disconnected the battery at least 20 times and removed seats at least 5 times)

Sorry for the delay in answering. Everything looks the same but the electronic interface protocol changed.

Yes it has power steering fluid. I assume you mean the green cap on the left side of the engine bay? (Left and right are always safer to quote as if you are sitting in the car) It's a bit tricky to get to and the official method of refilling and bleeding requires you to remove the battery and run the car with jumper leads.

Disconnect the battery for a few minutes. This has cured a number of faults on mine.

With that mileage on the clock it's probably the dampers that are next to useless. Springs tend not to soften, just sag somewhat. I've found that dampers are past their best well before 100000 miles and there's no need for an upgrade just a replacement with a new standard set. Even an expensive pair of rear Bilstein B8s come in under £200. Front ones are quite a bit of hassle to change but I can do a pair of rears in under half an hour.

When buying make darn sure it's not an Octavia III wheel as this won't work. e.g. Not one of these http://www.cars-equipment.com/www/en/shop/three-spoke-steering-wheels-2/oem-5e0419091be-lrn-stw-skoda-octavia/ but one of these will work http://www.cars-equipment.com/www/en/shop/three-spoke-steering-wheels-11/oem-3t0419091aj-multifunction-steering-wheel-for/ You will need three wires added, two for the power supply and one for the LIN communication bus.