eribaMotters

As the decline in performance is gradual you will seem to think it is working fine, when actually it is not. A lot of owners also do not use the system frequently, when they should do, as the gas has lubricants added that keep the seals in order. If you do not use it the seals dry out and you loose the gas. The compressors draw on the engine is also minimal and will effect mpg no more than driving with the window open, probably less, so a false economy not to use it. I always run the car with mine on and stick to a 3 year re-gas. I did this with cars prior to the Yeti and now with my Audi A3. When I'm in France in the summer and it hits high 30's, even low 40's c the car is nice and cold. The cost advantage lies with the Yeti owner over more modern cars when it comes to a re-gas as you are faced with a £60/70 bill as opposed to a £120/140 bill due to the different gas used in post 2019 ? cars. Do yourselves a favour, use it, re-gas every 3 years and make the most of what you have in a great car. Colin

I find it strange how VAG can have this 1.5L lump behave so differently across the brands. I bought an Audi A3 with this engine and a manual box back in 2019 as I could not source a Karoq at a sensible price ,and they were still bunny hopping at the time. The combination has been an absolute joy. It has now got we wondering if I should avoid the Karoq when I come to change next. Colin

I do not know if it helps, but my uncle had a similar issue some years ago trying to pair his very up to date phone to an older Mercedes. It was simply not compatible due to the technology/age difference. Colin

I was put onto Hatchbag just as I left Yeti ownership. I managed to get an ex-demo liner for my Audi A3 6 years ago and I cannot fault it. They are well wort the money and will be my first purchase when I renew the car. Premium fit Skoda Yeti Boot Covers|Hatchbag Colin

Oldstan, new Volvo prices are fixed so no negotiation. They do regularly have the manufacturer promotions, such as the 50% down and the interest free on the balance. I have also seen £1,500 minimum off and two free services. If you go for the Plus model it comes in well under the £40K threshold [before any promotions] and has nearly everything you could want, including the heated front screen. In real terms it is little more expensive than a similarly equipped Karoq, and I would say more of a keeper. My 2019 Audi A3 1.5L petrol is an absolute dream. I replaced my Yeti with this from new and I cannot fault it. When it comes to change the XC40 will be on my list as I would prefer a little more weight for towing. Colin

Oldstan, have you had a look at the \Volvo XC40? Colin

Are you sure it is not tyre related? I posted the following on the Audi forum a month or so ago. I had initially discounted tyres as they have been on for two years. 36K miles on an Audi A3 1.5tfsi running All Seasons. Tyre wear totally even, showing 6 to 7mm left across full width of tread and on all tyres. No wheel weights missing, no wheel or tyre damage and no vibration through seat or steering wheel. Brakes in a straight line and steers perfectly. No trim or underbody plastic trays loose. Bonnet latched down correctly. So why am I getting a drone from the front end between 60 and 65 mph across a variety of road surfaces? The consensus is tyre drone, caused by air trapped in the tyre grooves. from all account it is a fairly common thing. Colin

The side bolstering on the "sports" seats stop the seat from fully folding forward. Prior to my Yeti I had a VW Touran and I managed to spec this with such a seat. Both vehicles are built on the same platform and you may find you could swap a seat over from the Touran. Colin

I experienced two false tyre warning light episodes in the 5 years I owned my Yeti and I have had two on my present car a now 5 year old Audi A3. These things just happen. As regards warning warning lights in general, these frequently occur when battery voltage is low or the battery has been replaced. Once a new/fully charged battery is in place then the dash and warning lights usually sort themselves out after a mile or so of driving. Colin

If you are talking all electric, what about the Volvo EX30. Volvo EX30 | Small electric SUV | Volvo Cars Colin

If the Duster had more bhp and torque I would be interested as I need to tow a caravan. If I did not tow it would definitely be on my list. The next model up, the forthcoming Bigster, just looks to big, a bit like a block of flats. Shame. Colin

Back to the title of the thread. I replaced my Diesel Yeti 5 years ago in March. I could not find anything that was near a direct replacement, so did a sideways step and bought a Petrol Audi A3. It has the 1.5 tfsi petrol engine that is common across the VAG group and is an absolute gem. It is refined, pulls well and extremely economical. It is even a better tow car than my Yeti was. This year I'll start looking to replace it. I do not jump quickly, so 12-24 months is a probable time frame. As much as I like the engine I cannot see me getting a Karoq, it just does not float my boat. At present I can see two contenders, a Volvo XC40, but that is EXPENSIVE and a Mazda CX5. Nothing will have the style of the Yeti but this car does have a presence. It is extremely well put together, a very nice interior and excellent reliability record. It even handles well and come in the correct side of £30K. Colin

For those of us who are less well informed, how does it work then. If the lubricant is in suspension of the air-con gas/liquid, then when the compressor is on the lubricant would be moved around the system and come into contact with any of the seals. Colin

I believe the following is true and contradicts some of the comments above :- - The gas includes the addition of a lubricant, whose job helps preserve the seals. - The more frequently you use the AC the better as the lubricant gets pumped around and keep the seals protected. - AC is not just for summer cooling but for year round use, clearing the screen in winter. - Regular use also keeps at bay any moisture that can be trapped in the ducts that feed the car and filter, eventually the cause of foul smells. - The AC gas will leak out, some tests say 10% per year is to be expected. - Year on year you may not notice a loss in performance but it will definitely decline. - Don't bother with the main dealer, go to an air-con company or good independent garage. probably about £70. - A re-gas if done correctly purges the system. Everything is sucked out and the volumn checked. The extra required to bring it up to full volumn is then added along with the correct lubricant. - A re-gas every two to three years should keep the system in good order if you leave the switch set to on. Finally, you have a nice car with functions that make it an enjoyable place to be in. Why not look after them and enjoy it, Look on the bright side, the gas used in newer vehicles is costing about twice as much to keep on top of. Just my point of view - Colin

Back in 2015? I sourced a set of 16" steel rims and winter tyres. I then looked for some wheel covers, but got fed up when seeing the price of the genuine Skoda Yeti model. Unfortunately the 3rd party generic trims where terrible in quality so I ended up buying genuine Skoda. I did manage to get the price down though as I think I bought those for the Superb. My advice would be buy Skoda but consider those from other models as only a total anorak would notice the difference. Colin

Getting back to the original post. I had a similar problem some years ago with a VW Touran. I called my recovery breakdown company who duly turned up and used a can of compressed air to clean out the lock. The mechanic said it was not uncommon for the barrel to get gummed up with dust and crud. This had been carried into the lock barrel on the key. It had been picked up from what was in your jacket, trousers pocket. Colin

Merseyside to Devon with my 2014 Yeti 2.0L 110bhp used to return about 60mpg. My current Audi A3 1.5 tfsi 150bhp has seen 76mpg on the same run. It does not however have the aerodynamics of a brick. The Audi has also towed a 1200kg low profile caravan at 40mpg. Modern vehicles are more economical. Colin

I would not attempt a repair on that wheel on grounds of both safety and cost. I would also not be concerned about a local collection of a replacement rim. If you book a courier service/royal mail on line a 20kg parcel at 60 x 60 x 25 cm comes out at £8/10. Colin

Have you thought about getting a supply and fit quote from PF Jones. It may not be as much as you think? Colin

I thought I'd update a very old post. I sold my 2014 Yeti in 2019. After selling the car I signed up with Millberg and yesterday had notification that I have had a settlement fee and may even get it before X-Mas. For legal reasons, blah, blah, I cannot disclose the sum. Has anybody else followed this through and had a payout? Colin

Check what the towing capacity is of your Yeti. You should have this on the door pillar [from memory] and also in the owners manual. On the continent owners of lightweight caravans towed with the 1.4 and 1.2 petrol engines. I would have thought the low weight and height should be fine. I'd advise contacting PF Jones ,who will fit a wide choice of tow bars at your home address at a good price and have a good reputation. Colin

Mine used to take about 5 minutes in the summer and 10 minutes in the winter to reach the 90c. It would stay happily at this figure, even on one extreme occasion of a 660 mile caravan tow in 30c temperatures. Colin

You mention the 1.4 petrol does not have the guts. I thought it had the same 150bhp and 250N/m torque of the current 1.5 petrol ran by VAG. My 2014 brochure has the 1.8 petrol as having 160bhp and 250N/m torque. Have I got this correct? Colin

Although the option was available it was not possible with optional Sport seats as the bolsters would not allow the fold flat. I tried to spec this combination for my 2014 factory build but it was not possible. I think this would also have been the case on the posher and more luxurious models with the beefed up leather seats. Colin

Something really is wrong with the mpg. I ran a 2.0L 110bhp for nearly five years. My normal mpg was in the 48-52mpg range, admittedly not in rush hour, but the run was only 5 miles each way to work so the engine never got hot. Post fix not a lot of change, but slightly higher revs needed to get same performance and regens did seem more frequent. 60+ on a run was the norm and not the exception. Near 40mpg towing a 1200kg low profile caravan was also possible. At present I am achieving similar figures with a 1.5L 150bhp 250N/m torque petrol in an Audi A3. Colin