eribaMotters

Whilst silicon and talk will both work, talk would be the best route. Silicon can leave a sticky residue that would attract dirt. Dry lubricants are always preferable at times like this. The classic situation is a door lock where you slide the key in. These respond best to foliac [graphite powder] or a ptfe spray. If you squirted silicon or an oil, even WD40 in dirt would eventually stick and the situation could be worse. Colin

How old is your Yetii and has it had the fix? It should have a sticker in the boot if the fix has been carried out and may still be covered. A Skoda main dealer should be able to look this up over the phone. Colin

Back to your original question. I sold my 2014 110bhp 2.0L diesel Yeti in March 2019. It had done done37K. It had been "fixed" and I saw a slight difference as a result. Higher revs to get the same performance, no real difference in mpg and initially slightly more frequent regens, As the engine learnt I don't think there was much difference. I had one false alarm with dash warning lights about a 18 months prior to sale. At 4 years old I had zinc inclusions done on the front doors under warranty without any problem. I swapped to the 1.5 petrol in an Audi A3. I've had no issues. The engine is very flexible and willing. Fuel consumption is similar to the diesel Yeti. in fact I have seen near 70mpg on a brim to brim tank filling. Yes the A3 does not have the aerodynamics of brick like the Yeti but I was not prepared for the results. I loved my Yeti but I have to admit in hindsight it now seems primitive to more modern vehicles such as the Karoq. Colin

The above can be read several ways. If referring to a remap of the 110bhp to 180-185bhp then this would be inadvisable. I had a 110bhp and it had the 5 speed box. This will not cope well with the far higher torque levels that come with the extra bhp. Colin

The best I managed was when coming back from France with the caravan. In the boot I had table top fridge, table top freezer, 2 clothes maidens and odd bits. In place of the rear seats, down into the footwells and up to shoulder height were two camping tables, three stacker boxes, 36 kg awning and the vast majority of the 3L wine boxes in the photo. You will note the back of the Yeti was a bit low if you look at the distance between top of tyre and wheel arch. Colin

I was in a Kia Ceed yesterday. The neighbour has owned it for a year having stepped down from a 2L diesel to this 1L petrol. I was very surprised. Fit and finish are good although some plastics as in every vehicle now a bit hard. Nice seats, comfortable, lots of toys, boot about same as Yeti. Foe a 1L petrol I was amazed at how refined and willing the engine was. The 1.4L would be worth a look if you are not after 4wd. Colin

When I used to run winter steel wheels I looked for decent aftermarket wheeltrims and they all looked cheap and nasty. I bit the bullet and bought genuine and expensive Skoda. I do not regret it. You may find a friendly dealer on e-bay. I also replaced my locking wheelbolts. It is a very good idea. Try these:- https://www.eurocarparts.com/wheel-bolts Local Skoda garage managed to fit original locking so tightly that when I tried to swap wheels over I could not get them off. I had to go elsewhere to get them removed. Colin

I miss my heated screen, mostly for the ability it had to de-fog the windscreen as this was a far more common need than for frost in my case . But remember a petrol engine does heat up a lot quicker so a petrol without heated screen clears a lot faster than a diesel without heated screen. The element was visible at times in certain lighting conditions, but never a distraction. If I was ordering a new car now it would be the first available option I would tick. Colin

Would a Fixed Tow Snap Shackle give more clearance. https://www.amazon.co.uk/stainless-Stainless-Shackle-corrosion-resistant/dp/B08D8ZGT3B Colin

I would not worry about crash damage. If you are going to hit something that hard that the bike wants to move around you'll already have done major damage to the car. Also in design and manufacture the carrier will have met strict regulations and testing. As regard van weight, current van shown was 830kg empty when new with max load of 1200kg. I usually run at about 1150kg when away for a 4-6 week European trip and typically 60kg noseweight. This gives a very stable tow. The great surprise to me is how well my petrol A3 Yeti replacement tows. It has more go, a bigger boot and still returns up to 40mpg. If I'd not had the 110bhp tune of diesel I probably would still have had the Yeti.

StickMicky, I shared your scepticism about the security of the clamp on towball type carrier until recently. I fitted a towball onto the drawbar jockey wheel mount of my caravan so I could use one of the cheaper Thule Express carriers to transport a bike on the front of the caravan. I used bracing bars from this to the front of the van handles and tried it out on a run from Liverpool to Conway earlier in the summer. It became obvious the bars offered nothing apart from my initial perceived piece of mind. Over August/September I did a 900 mile trip without the braces and confirmed my earlier observation that the extra bars were not needed. The clamp on towball type carrier are an excellent bit of kit. This shows fitment on previous van. Colin

They do differ, this is from my 2014 brochure:- 2.0 TDI CR 140PS 4x4 DPF 152 G 2.0 TDI CR 140PS 4x4 DSG DPF 164 G 2.0 TDI CR 170PS 4x4 DPF 149 F 2.0 TDI CR 170PS 4x4 DSG DPF 164 G Colin

The circular metal clip is for removing the rear light cluster so you can change a bulb. Check in the owners manual and all should be clear. Colin

Broken springs are not uncommon. Prior to Yeti ownership I had two go on my VW Touran which has the same floorpan. A friend at the time who was an Audi service manager replaced them for me, telling me VAG had several thousand in stock. As regards the cambelt, go to a good independent and get it done, along with the water pump. It is not worth the risk of it failing. Colin

I owned my Yeti for nearly five years. I learnt about the Hatchbag towards the end and looked out for a discount one on there website, but no luck. When I bought my Audi A3 in March last year I managed to get one. They are excellent and wouldn't waste my time trying to find anything else. I managed to trim my reverse sided carpet/rubber boot mat to fit on top of it as boot floor obviously nearly identical. Colin

Sorry, I have to disagree. I have towed in France each summer since 1999, doing up to 3,000 miles some years. I've found open roads, less congestion and more tolerant drivers. I'm guessing the later is because they see the GB plate and a caravan and give me a bit of space. The first time I ventured over with the Yeti was a near 600 mile trip in one go. Every couple of hours I could pull over at an aire, stretch my legs, go the loo and have a drink. You cannot do that in the UK. What an absolute joy. Colin

As above, you will be exceeding the max roof load. That is not to say it will not take it, which I have no doubt about, but if you had to make an insurance claim you'll have a problem. Also, where do you plan on camping as some sites will not allow roof top tents. Colin

I thought my 2014 City had the facility. I've just checked the 2014 brochure and it says "ISOFIX child seat fittings on outer rear seats". Colin

I understand what you mean about cleaning the grease off, but have a far less problem. With my drop down swan-neck I find out of season it goes rusty over winter in the sea -air where I live. I now have two covers, one greased for winter and the other dry, fitted over the summer. After winter the wiping with white spirit and then a squirt of brake cleaner reveals no rust and I don't have to revert to emery tape to get it back into condition. Colin

For 5 years I towed with my Yeti. I've towed caravans and trailer tents for over 20 years with 5 vehicles, three of which have been VAG group. These have ranged from slightly nose down, through neutral to slightly nose up. Whilst neutral looks correct and best all have been stable as the most important factor is the loading and the subsequent noseweight. Get this correct and you should have no problem. I have incidentally found this to be best around 55kg and not the 75/80kg that my vehicles have as a suggested maximum. If I've approached this higher level then the front end of the car has become light and traction diminished on pulling away. Colin ps - Captainslogg, nice to see somebody has cleaned the towball correctly

I ran my Yeti for 37K and never noticed this. The torque seemed to kick in at about 1700/1900 rpm so I can see why just below this things could seem a bit flat. Colin

Audi Q2, don't bother. Last March I replaced my Yeti and had given it the once over. It had become apparent very quickly that nothing was really out there that with the same appeal and virtues as the Yeti, so I changed direction. Hybrids don't really make sense to me at present, I was told NO to a diesel by the lovely wife and so looked at petrol. First choice was a Karoq, but it lacked appeal, was expensive and waiting lists long. I ended up with an Audi A3 having discounted the Q2 for interior and boot space, cost and hard plastics. The outgoing A3 has a wonderful interior, was cheaper, available in 1/3rd of the time as a Karoq and has a bigger boot that the Yeti. I've now had it for 18 months and although I miss my Yeti have fallen for the comfort, quality, refinement and ride. It is also as economical as my diesel Yeti and tows my small caravan better. Looking back I don't regret changing direction as I still don't believe a Yeti replacement is out there. Colin

Look up Fiamma Carry Bag and Carry Box as used on motorhomes. Colin

If you have to go with the Yeti then the 150bhp diesel. I ran a 110bhp diesel with a low profile 1200kg caravan and I was happy. I then swapped to a 150bhp petrol Audi A3 and I cannot believe the difference the extra bhp makes. You need the combination of the 150bhp and weight. Colin