Crasher

IF you can find one, the 1.8 petrol BUT chains, ohh the chains…

Are they still in business as their web site is down?

My OE side mounted intercooler in my VRS is struggling to keep charge air temps down, has anyone on here ever fitted one of the few double pass front mounted kits marketed for the Golf 4 1.8T? I have fitted single pass kits on the Golf but I dislike the pipe work.

Or the VIN?

What is the VIN?

What is the cars VIN?

Febi switches are indistinguishable from genuine, we have used them for 40 years without issue; the FEBI 19014 costs about a tenner.

On my 1U5, I had them powder coated in RAL 9005 satin black and painted the plastic parts myself in Würth RAL9005 satin black. I cleaned the trims with cellulose thinners and misted the paint on from approx 30cm to give a textured finish. Würth also sell VW 110 satin black (really a very dark grey) and VW115 dark grey which come in handy doing restoration work. The worst part of the job is dropping the roof lining to access the screws.

Which engine code? Brown: 038 919 081 K, 0.55>0.85 Bar, 1 pin, M10x1, SW24mm; ASY, ATD, AMF, ASZ Green: 036 919 081 D, 0.3>0.6 Bar, 1 pin, M10x1, SW24mm; AWY, BMD, AZQ, AUA, BBY, BKY, AUB, BBZ Black: 06A 919 081 J, 1.2>1.6 Bar, 1 pin, M10x1, SW24mm; AZL Grey: 047 919 081 B, 0.9>1.0 Bar, 1 pin, M16X1.5, SW24m; ARV, AQV, ATY, AME, AQW, ATZ, AZE, AZF

Do you have VCDS?

Did you fit a new belt and tensioner, was the pump genuine, plus the VIN please?

The system for the BFQ is unique across the 1U platform. Radiator fan control unit, radiator fan, air conditioning system magnetic coupling J110- Central locking control unit J293 - Radiator fan control unit J393 - Convenience electric central control unit N25 - Air conditioning system magnetic coupling T2r - 2-pin connector, for air conditioning system magnetic coupling T3h - 3-pin connector, in the holder on the left radiator T3s - 3-pin connector, in the holder on the left radiator T4r - 4-pin connector, at radiator fan control unit T4t - 4-pin connector, in the holder on the starter T14a - 14-pin connector, at radiator fan control unit T14b - 14-pin connector, on front left in engine compartment (black) T15a - 15-pin connector, at central locking control unit / at convenience electric central control unit V7 - Radiator fan V35 - Radiator fan, right 12a - Earth point -2-, below the battery on the left 188 - Earth connection, in front left wiring harness A49 - Connection -1-, in wiring harness behind dash panel L5 - Connection -1-, in front left wiring harness L6 - Connection -2-, in front left wiring harness * - only for vehicles with anti-theft alarm system

They aren't going to be available again, the manufacturers are dropping the idea as fast as they can; Hydrogen direct into the car is imply not going to work, there are stories of people in California having to call out specialist technicians to de-ice the tank connector so the car can be disconnected, if that happens in California what will it be like in a European winter? What will it be like some some bright spark 💥 has a less sophisticated way of releasing a frozen connector? It does not bear thinking about, If you had seen some of the things I have seen people do to cars...

Shell is pulling out of direct to customer hydrogen, it isn't going to happen.

Green Hydrogen is part of the answer but direct use in fuel cell EV’s or ICE, never going to happen… just TOO dangerous.

On the remote? Who did the install?

Perhaps their TPS cocked it up and quoted on a brand new one which is £2728.66, still not expensive, I double checked it with Nottingham TPS and the price is correct but the number doesn't come back on stock check so I need the VIN.

Fit and forget two year warranty, not a difficult decision.

From what I can see there is no alternative to an LMG but it was also used in the Ibiza 2012>2015. Bear in mind that a genuine exchange box from a Skoda dealer 02T 300 058 X is a very reasonable £1794 inc VAT retail.

What is the VIN?

No

@nta16 I found it by accident. I was sitting back with a large vodka in one hand and the latest (at that time) copy of Practical Classics in the other and there was a piece about Powdercoat repair spray so as I am doing a full resto on a 94 S2 I thought it would come in handy for touching up the inevitable chips in all the lovely RAL9005 bits... it is a bit thin to use as a touch up (decant and leave to thicken) and a bit shinny for me. Then out of the blue their rep called me and we got chatting, apart from him being in Belfast and randomly knowing the owner of a Scirocco GTX we have just finished for a chap in Scotland, he got me to order a mixed box of six so I had two more black, two cold galve (excellent stuff) and two DBX. I was a bit sceptical but one of the lads was struggling to get a Golf 2 16v seat to move last week as the mechanism was all rusted up, spayed it on, gave it overnight and bingo. I hope it may come in handy next time I get a PQ35 platform car with the brake pedal sticking down due to the pivot pin rustsing.

In the very rare instance of a Pagid disc from ECP throwing a wobbler, they don't even question the runout figures. That he says there is no runout but you have signs of it would make me check the rears (it does happen).

@nta16 If you fancy experimenting then try some of this, it is amazing stuff https://www.lubricantsuppliers.com/product/bdx-01-bulldog-bdx @killie77 All mechanics end up feeling that way after about a week in the job, never mind after 42 years!

He probaly used a dial gauge to check for run out on the discs, this should not exceed 0.025mm. If we get a car come in with a warped disc, we do a runout check on the hub around each side of the wheel bolt and here the maximum figure is basically zero. Sometimes new discs can warp if the hub face has not been cleaned down properly, if a wire wheel won't bring them spotless, we run the engine in gear and use a flat steel block with 80 grit to grind the face clean.