gm73

Mine was doing the same. Temperature gauge was jumping about, flat at the bottom on the motorway when running the heaters hovering about 70 when heaters turned off. It was a failed thermostat. It isn't too bad to do, my mechanic charged me £65 to replace it. Beware though and get the correct thermostat as it's quite a bespoke one. Here's a video of it on an Audi but it's the same as the Skoda. It's in German but quite easy to follow. https://youtu.be/n8fWe4L45Kc

It's 140k miles. I was told the 1.6/2.0 Tdi has the long life belt and tensioners by Skoda customer service. As I said earlier mines was changed at 133k when the car was four years old.

£75 for a fuel filter too. I buy the VAG one from my local motor factors for £15 and it takes 5 minutes and a torx screwdriver to change it. Bosch pollen filter, £15 and about 10 mins. How they justify £185 for an oil change is beyond me.

The 1.6 is 140k as well. I called Skoda and they confirmed it.

Thought I'd close off this topic with the resolution. Changed the coolant temp sensor and it made no difference. Had the thermostat changed today and it's fixed thank God. Car feels better to drive too although that may be my imagination.

Belt driven waterpump. I had my cambelt and waterpump changed by a local independent garage for £350. Make sure they use Gates which is the same as the original belt.

It's the 2.0 Tdi he has so it's 140k miles or 5 years.

Buy a cheap OBDII scanner from a motor factor like Eurocarparts then google the code it throws up.

The car actually has three water pumps. There's the traditional water pump which turns with the timing belt and an electronic one at the front, I'm not sure where the third one is. I've had to change two. The electronic one cost me £100 to replace, the pump itself was £85 and took the mechanic 10 minutes. There definately is an electronic coolant pump in addition to the belt driven pump. As above, mine's lodged a fault code so I had it replaced...turned out it was a broken wire as the code came back. It's commonly known as coolant pump B and the fault code is P261a. You're correct in saying that they're trying to bull**** him as that one obviously won't need changed.

Nice result. I changed my sensor and it didn’t make a difference. Changing the thermostat now next week.

Any driver I know who changed to a Ford or Citroen had always went back to an Octavia. The problem being the Mondeo had the PSA Diesel engine and the same issues as any Citroen or Peugeot. I had a Berlingo for a year and I hated it, it was finished as a taxi at 140k. Couldn’t wait to go back to an Octavia and now I’m on 183k pretty much trouble free miles (touch wood). Many also changed to Hyundai i40s back around 2013. You don’t see any of them at all anymore despite the 7 year warranty.

The interval is 140,000. I had mine done at 133k but I’m not leaving but that long again. It will be changed again at 200k. Thus I’d probably recommend 100k.

Yes, she has been very reliable. I think she’s cost me (including consumables, tyres, services and MOTs) about £1500 to run in those years. The sensor was OEM but I might just purchase a VAG one. Sorry, yes. 5 speed manual.

Quite quickly tbh. That’s the strange thing, heating seems normal. I’ll get the thermostat changed but if nothing changes then I’m stumped.

It must be the reason. Just watched a German bloke change one on an Audi with the 2.0 litre tdi. Doesn’t look as daunting as I first feared. I’ll try and persuade the mechanic to have a go. I always assumed a stuck thermostat would either stay shut or stay open but perhaps this one isn’t fully opening or closing.

Hi, my temp gauge has been acting up for a while...under normal stop start driving at this time of year it sits about 70 degrees (see pic) On the motorway it can sit flat at the bottom of the gauge depending on the outside temp and if I’m running the heater. During the summer it will sit at 90 degrees and drop down to 75/80 on the motorway. Oil temperature goes up and down too. I feel as if performance is being affected when it gets too warm although that may be paranoia on my part. I’ve suspected a faulty coolant temp sensor so ordered one from eBay and fitted it but it hasn’t solved a thing. Now I’m thinking thermostat. So before I get the mechanic to strip half the car and charge me huge labour part to fit a £12 ‘stat does anyone have any other ideas as to what’s causing this? Do I need an OEM sensor for example? This has been annoying me a while now so the car is not overheating and DPF regens are fine. Many thanks.

Engine: 1.6 TDi 115 Type: SE saloon Mileage: 183k miles Cambelt changed 1 times 5 speed Manual Gearbox oil changed 1 times Any other major work done? heater blower motor, exhaust flap control sensor, electronic coolant pump, fuel flap actuator, wiper blades, 19x services, numerous tyres, brake pads changed 3x, discs once STILL ON ORIGINAL CLUTCH AND FLYWHEEL!!

I've never changed the sump plug on mine and it has had 19 oil changes. So no need to worry.

I usually get my fronts done every 25k and the rears 35k. The discs lasted 145k on the front but had the rears done whilst it was in. Never had the brake fluid changed in 5 years and 183k.

Happened to me. Replaced all the aux belt tensioners and pulleys when getting the timing belt replaced and it went away.

My car’s (2015 1.6 CR TDI 182k miles) temperature gauge is all over the place. Flat at the bottom on the motorway and goes up to 80 doing short runs (it’s a taxi) then drops back as soon as you hit the dual carriageway or motorway. There’s still heat coming into the cab when it’s flat at the bottom but when it’s up near 90 there’s a noticeable drop In performance. It feels like it’s struggling a bit. I’m hoping it’s just the CTS as I have a replacement here and will get it fitted but I’m a bit worried it might be the thermostat due to the location of it.

You must be unlucky. My 1.6 CR tdi is on 182k and the original clutch and flywheel which are perfect. There’s other things that are annoying me about the car though. The pinging from the clutch pedal? Mines does something like that when it’s damp and the car has been left for a few hours longer than normal. Repeated pumping of the pedal makes it go away lol.

I thought I’d better update this post. I had the timing belt, ancillary belt and water pump replaced and the noise vanished. So it was a belt issue.

I was doing my tyre check this morning and I’ve noticed the fronts have excessive wear on the inside edges which would suggest the camber being out. However, since the car has only ever ever had the front shocks replaced on the front suspension in 178,000 miles I’m suspicious of balljoint, bushes or ARB bush wear. It’s booked in for new boots and alignment on Tuesday But Would it be worth getting my mechanic to stick it on the ramp tomorrow before the tracking is done by National. (He doesn’t do tracking).

I have fault code P023B showing on my 1.6 TDI CR (163k miles). I think it might be something to do with the auxiliary coolant pump having an open circuit. Hopefully not the water pump as the timing belt was changed not that long ago. Can anyone confirm? Thanks.