gm73

I fitted Monroe shocks to my old 15 plate. Reduced some of the noise but not much.

I’m beginning to think the clutch or an aspect of the clutch is gubbed. I’m going to phone the dealer on monday. The car belonged to Europcar before I bought it so God knows how it has been driven. It’s disappointing as it has only done 12k.

Yeah it’s in normal mode. For some annoying reason the car always returns to normal when you restart it. The old one didn’t do it. anyway I’ve discovered a way to stop it which is to blip the clutch slightly again after lifting it up before accelerating. It only really happens once every ten times or so when changing so I can live with it for now. I’m assuming it’s a “feature” of the car.

I’ve read all about the “kangarooing” issues and tbh my car drives absolutely fine except there is a hint of clutch judder when pulling away in 1st just after the biting point. It doesn’t happen all the time and can be totally avoided by changing to 2nd immediately, over revving or dipping the clutch. Sometimes I get a clean, nice getaway. Having had a 1.6 diesel that was still on the original clutch after 196k it’s a bit disconcerting. It’s a 2020 1.5 TSi with 12k miles. tbh the inconsistencies in the driving experience in these cars is driving me mad. I’ve had Octavias back to a 2004 MK1 1.9 PD and the MK3 seems to lack the workhorse quality they previously had. Would a dealer software update help perhaps or am I on course for a new clutch after only 12k???

Electric. There’s no power steering fluid reservoir.

Hi my steering is making a bit of a loud buzzing noise when on full lock under load. Is this normal? I can’t remember my previous Octavia doing this. It’s a 2020 car with 12k on the clock.

My 2015 1.6 TDI made this same noise. Once the engine warmed up it went away. I recently sold the car with 196k miles on the clock so it's not an issue. I'm a bit of OCD about noises and this one didn't bother me.

Have you checked the timing belt is still intact?

If the blower motor has packed in don't worry. It's an easy DIY job and the part is about £160 from Skoda.

It's the electronic waterpump (not the cam driven waterpump). When my car displayed that code it was a broken wire although I also had the pump replaced - £83 from TPS.

Coolant wise I believe it's the pink stuff...VAG G13

What's this? There's a perceptible clutch judder sometimes as well, which is hugely disapointing with only 11k on the clock.

My taxis are never worked too hard. They do between 25 and 30k miles a year and this one will be replaced before it hits 100k. I always keep a close eye on everything to the point of paranoia and keep 4 tyres in my shed.

Hi, it's been good so far, it's a manual. The extra power is a boon tbh and the fuel economy isn't hugely different from my previous 1.6 TDi. I accepted the compromise between fuel economy and refinement. The drive is very inconsistent though, just like the previous car, sometimes it feels silky smooth then ten seconds later feels like you have to work it. I have other, older cars, and the drive never changes.

Thanks. It's a December 2019 build. Registered March 2020.

You don’t really need one. I did about 100k miles without one since it was “removed” in heavy snow.

I've just sold an Octavia 2015 1.6 TDI (ex-Taxi) that did 196k with no major issues at all and was still on its original clutch. Only major outlay was £230 for front shock absorbers. Sure it wasn't very refined but it was hugely reliable and cheap to run with full bluetooth and zero road tax plus 50+ mpg.

Hi I've just recently bought a 2020 1.5 TSI Octavia and can report absolutely no "kangarooing" issues at all. Car is really smooth to drive and quite refined (in comparison to my previous 1.6 CR TDI with 196k on the clock). It's not particularly quick in 1st and 2nd gear but comes into its own in 3rd and motorway driving is a joy.

Is Castrol Edge 5W-30 LL VW 504/507 suitable for the 1.5 TSI engine? I want to do my servicing outwith the dealer but need to be careful to stick to the correct oil to maintain the warranty. My mechanic can buy oil at cost price. Also would a Bosch oil filter do the trick??? I'm doing services every ten/twelve weeks so as you can imagine I'd like to keep time lost and costs down and avoid the dealer. Thanks. Oh and is 5 litres required?

I replaced my locking wheel nut with a standard one. The amount of times the wheels were off meant there was a danger the nut was going to get rounded out and pose a major ballache.

I've just purchased a decent jack kit off Amazon for £20. Will head to the scrapyard for a 16" 5 stud wheel and legal tyre. I'm not paying £100 for something I might never use.

Ah Arnold Clark...went to see a 67 plate SE L 2.0 CR Tdi advertised for £13.5k with 29k miles. Scuffs and dings galore. Oh we can buff that out sir. Went over to Henry’s and got a 20 plate 1.5 TSI SE ACT for £13,150 with 9k miles. Absolute scam masters

I’d look into changing the battery to solve the start/stop issue. I had to change mine at about 90k miles. Shop about and you can get an AGM battery for about £140 but you’ll need to get it coded in.

It’s just a little thing but annoying.

It’s 140k or 5 years. Whichever comes sooner.