webweasel

Plenty of ebay sellers sell car 'modding' mesh of different sizes and shapes for around a fiver. Black alu would work quite well I think.

Primer grey FTW then!

It could be that the plasticiser from the non-slip mat has migrated into the dash plastic making it slightly raised. I would still try the hairdryer on it. Maybe if that doesn't work spray a bit of WD40 over it and try heating it again. Bit of a long-shot though, I'll admit.

You might have better luck in the VCDS section.

Yes, good point. So the beep is just for the parking light I suppose. It's just annoying as I foget and then drive off the next morning with my dipped beams on, looking like a plonker!

This was touched on in another thread but it didn't really cover my situation, so I thought I'd start a new one... I have a '63 plate SE. It does have auto wipers but it doesn't have auto lights. The light selection dial just has '0', sidelights and dipped beam. The sidelight position is backlit but the dipped position isn't. If i turn off the ignition with the sidelights on it beeps at me an warns me on the maxidot. It doesn't do anything if I leave the dipped beams on. So my question is: is it easy to add auto lights? And if not, can the coding be changed to warn me when I leave the dipped beam on?

To continue this deviation from the thread, I believe it stems from the fact that in the UK, low pressure hot water systems used to be the norm. Since it is not practical to blend mains pressure cold and low pressure hot, taps were traditionally separate. It's also cheaper that way, which might also have something to do with it. ;-)

As mentioned on the other thread, the Osram Cool Blue H15 bulbs are an improvement at full beam, especially when twinned with H7 nightbreakers, and a slight improvement on the colour of the DRLs. Unfortunately because the sidelights are so dim there is no change there and they look just as yellow as before.

They claim to have 20% more light than standard which doesn't sound much but I think they're worth it. I fitted H7 nightbreakers at the same time and drove back cross-country from Maidenhead on Saturday night and they lit up the place for miles around.

Okay, they arrived today. On balance I am quite pleased but the difference is quite subtle. On the plus side, the DRLs are much whiter. Not pure white but an improvement. The full beams are much brighter. On the downside, the sidelights (which use the DRL fillament but at a lower power) look just the same as before, ie crap. So is it possible to code the lights so the sidelights are the same brightness as the DRLs? And if so is anyone in the Oxfordshire area able to do this for me for some beer tokens? Apologies for the crap photo (which is just of the DRLs), but as I said, the difference is subtle.

Will do.

interesting that the H15 packaging says 'up to 3700k', which means the DRLs may be less white than that. It also means that it would be better matched with Nightbreaker dipped beams than more Cool Blue bulbs. Anyway, have ordered them so thanks for posting.

I think, as long as you are happy to destroy the old grille surround, you can remove it and fit the new one without removing the bumper.

So, I was driving along yesterday evening with the radio off. Out of the blue there were two 'bongs' and the radio turned itsef on. It had also randomly reasigned all the preset stations. Has anyone else experienced anything like this? Are there ghosts in the machine or is it a sign of something more serious?

This probably is my biggest bugbear: unless I am doing it wrong the Bolero unit doesn't scroll through the stored radio stations logically using the left-right buttons (it sort of gets stuck on one page/group of four stations). Also if you use the right hand knob to scroll through the stored stations it thinks you want to manually tune the thing.

It's not just the spoler but the edge-to-edge glass on the hatch that's the problem. I've just bought the bits for a set of Thule aero bars from flea-bay for about £100 but haven't tried fitting them yet.

Surely this isn't a gas issue if it is an intermittant fault? Maybe a Briskodian can recommend a better local dealer.

Ordered some X-Shades for my hatchback (not bothered about the lack of a rear screen option) and they arrived this morning. Very pleased with the quality. Have fitted them without the supplied magnets and they hold themselves well just on their own. Thanks for the heads-up.

Hi James, It's where the window controls are on the driver's door but on the other doors the window controls are at a higher level (top left corner of the picture).

Hi, i'd be grateful if someone could identify this part for me. (Rear door next to the grab-handle) Surely it is just a blanking plate for something else? An ashtray for example? Edit: Photo added (again). Sorry about the multiple posts. Kept getting 'server timed out' errors!

The RollJam proof-of-concept jams the first keypress and also stores it. When you realise the car didn't lock and press the button again, it jams and stores the second code whilst releasing the first code to the car. The car is now locked but the jammer has a legitimate ulnock code up it's sleeve. So it isn't a hack of the code itself, more of a sleight-of-hand trick. I think the manufacturers will block it fairly quickly as it just requires the codes to time-out after a few seconds.

By the way, if you have KESSY I recommed you get a Faraday cage for your key. eg: http://www.fobguard.com

Sorry to hear that mate. Out of interest, when you locked it, did you see the car lights flash or did you just press the fob whilst walking away? The most common scam is to flood the frequency to prevent the car from locking: http://www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk/news/greater-manchester-news/hi-tech-car-thieves-hit-streets-8099557 Unfortunately, the problem is going to get worse. I was reading yesterday about a more sophisticated jammer which can lock and unlock cars: http://arstechnica.co.uk/security/2015/08/meet-rolljam-the-30-device-that-jimmies-car-and-garage-doors/

Hi Rich, I got a 1.2 tsi Octy SE for the same reasons as you and I'm delighted with it. My previous car was a 1.2 Fiesta and by comparison the Octy is much more powerful even in a much larger car. Drives more like a 1.8 IMO and only £30 tax a year instead of £140. Incredibly, the insurace is cheaper too. That said, I was given a 1.2 Rapid Sport as a courtesy car when mine was serviced. Didn't like it much at all. Very rattly when cold (actually thought it was a diesel when I started it). Maybe it had been thrashed a bit? Anyway, take a test drive and see for yourself.

That's what Osram said to me. Pity they're not Nightbreakers but they'll do.