Papez

It's not straightforward at all, Fabia block had been modified quite substantialy to fit the larger crankshaft. From my memory, a centimeter or so has to be taken off the counterweights to fit into 1.3 block, the axial bearing is on a different main bearing, the timing chain sprocket is different and flywheel has 6 holes instead of 4.

I've never done this, so I'm not 100% sure, but cars made after 1996 should have the newer radiator support panel, compatible with both types of the lock. Try to remove the old lock, there may be extra holes hidden under the cover (sorry, I couldn't find better photos of a bare panel) For reference, the older panel, that's not compatible with the facelift lock, looks like this So yours should be compatible.

It's 10:1, it's literally written in the pic which is official material from Skoda. Anyway, I forgot to write translation of non-obvious terms in the picture, relevant to the valve timing: Saní otevírá před HÚ - Inlet valve closes before TDC (top dead centre) Sáni uzavírá po DÚ - inlet valve closes after BDC (bottom dead centre) Výfuk otevírá před DÚ - exhaust valve opens before BDC Výfuk zavírá po HÚ - exhaust valve closes after TDC

Found chart from the workshop manual that shows difference in CR and camshaft timing between different engines. Though it may be useful.

That's nice and all, but I simply asked you to not repost AI outputs, because it's factually wrong and low-effirt that does more harm than goodm And since AI takes most of its knowledge from the Internet, it will end up in another model and spread the nonsense further. It's different I don't have personal experience, but on paper, the difference will be most noticeable beyond 3000RPM. And I know a lot of Felicia drivers just don't do that. The gearbox would be probably more noticeable during normal driving (going from 3.833 10S to 4.118 14SK adds around 13% of torque to wheels, at the same wheel speed and adds ~500RPM engine speed), especially in the city. Though, to be honest, back in the day, I swapped gearbox in my 50kW Felicia for pre-fl one (136M 10S, around 250RPM less on 5th) and I didn't really notice a difference, but that may be because the 10S gearbox has better spacing between the gears, compared to the newer 14SK type. @D.FYLAKTOS I simply asked you to not copy&paste chatbot outputs, because it's often factually wrong, always low effort and does more harm than good. It's fundamentally different from using the AI yourself. This provides no way to check the original sources (if there are any) and instead ends up cited as a source for another unfortunate person who tries to ask AI for a similar info. So please. Just. Don't. Do. That. If you simply stated YOUR opinion it'd be more useful. I agree, with that it's not worth it. A 40kW in good shape is better than a beaten 50kW.

Where I said that? I pointed out quite clearly what's wrong with your post, are you ignoring that on purpose? The point you are trying to make is nowhere to be found in "your" posts. Or are you trying to say that what you posted isn't whatever AI spat out and an actual informed human wrote and fact-checked that? Because it's wrong anyway. Also another point, swapping the engine with a different type is illegal in CZ.

Have you checked if the brake calipers move properly? Sounds like something's dragging and causing vibrations. Once you touch brakes, everything settles and noise disappears.

@D.FYLAKTOS Please, do not just copy&paste AI nonsense here, it'll just scrub here again and reinforce bad information and will be even more inaccurate. Anyone can ask LLM themselves, no need to do it for them and spread misinformation. Pistons raise CR from 9.5 to 10. Not that big of a difference and it may be possible to reach through head skimming. The biggest difference is valve timing and ignition timing. The ECU is tuned for 91RON fuel, so it has milder advance settings. The valves have narrower timing because of the fuel, too. There may be different head, but not ignition volume, but rather different cross section of inlet ports - though this changed so much throughout the production that I'm not sure if it's difference between the two variants. Also, one difference not related to the engine - the 40kW has FASTER gearbox - in fact, as tall as the 1.6. 50kW is 250/500RPM faster on 5th gear (pre-facelift/facelift), to increase torque on wheels. There's another potential issue - around 1997 MY, there was change in camshaft bearing size, which also affected timing chain sprockets. So you'll need to check which variant you have and find correct donor, if you proceed with swap.

Yep, that's the blower motor. I dug up the service manual, the resistor pack is on the side of the heater box, right behind the blower fan. (Part marked with 8 on the pic below) You can see wires from the motor leading to it.

It's 1.9D, right? Those use different heating from Favorit, so I'm not familiar with it. But you should be able to locate the resistor pack in the engine bay, following wires from the motor. There are two bimetal contacts that appear to short the resistors if they overheat. It's possible that the one for 1st speed got stuck.

I can't help with the engine, since I've never worked with the diesel, but I just want to make this clear MK2 caddy are actually two entirely different models, funnily, neither of the two was made by VW. The van (9K) is rebadged Seat Inca, derived from MK2 Ibiza (6k). It's a mix of different VW platforms, including mostly MK1 caddy, MK2/3 Golf and MK3 Polo. The SDI and TDI engines were only available for this variant. The pickup (9U) is rebadged Felicia Pickup (6U). The AEF engine is the only diesel available, it originally came from MK3 Polo. Unlike the other VW diesel, it's slanted forward to fit into smaller engine base of the Polo and Felicia. Apart from the engine and some individual bits here and there, there's nothing from VW, even the gearbox is Skoda with adapter plate. Keep this in mind when looking for parts. @Rsedmonds Since the engine was also used in the Polo, you can try their community, there were probably more Polos with this type of pump than Skodas.

The only relay I can think of is R7 (X-contact), which powers wipers, headlights and other power hungry devices. It's also connected to the BE connector mentioned earlier. But it's driven by the ignition switch, so it can be either the switch or the relay.

Is the foam under the dasboard above the glovebox dry? Windshield leak is quite common issue on Felicias and water ends up in the fusebox, causing various electrical issues.

I can confirm now that leaking wastegate moves boost response up in the RPM range. I had some 4mm of total play in the actuator itself and the connection to wastegate lever and turbo didn't boost properly until 3000RPM. After actuator replacement, everything improved, though I didn't check the exact figures with the diagnostics.

So hopefully the issue have been fixed! The culprit was the wastegate actuator after all. Upon inspection I noticed quite significant play on the actuator rod. This was present even when the ECU tried to close the wastegate. So I ordered new part to try and replace it. MP4_20260914_080003VLOG.mp4 Getting the old part out was fight, too. I couldn't get the actuator off the wastegate lever. And this is why: I tried to move the lever before and there was no sign of play. So it's likely that the connection was sticking, but not enough to throw the P334B error. The bushing in the actuator, where the rod passes, was significantly worn, too, and the entire mechanism didn't move as freely as the new part. Overall, there was 3-4mm of play in the system (for reference, the entire range of the actuator is 10mm - reduced by 2mm insert which was fit during recall), so it's no wonder that the turbo couldn't reach boost in lower RPM. After the replacement, I did 15x ignition on/off procedure, which supposedly resets the endpoints. Drove around 200km afterwards with no issue. The car is much more lively now, although I didn't check with diagnostics, it's apparent that turbo reaches full pressure at ~2000RPM, but the throttle response improved all the way to idle. Fuel consumption at 6th gear/2000RPM and full throttle went from 9-10l/100km to 15+, so there's definitely more air going into the engine and hills, where it struggled before, are no issue now.

Here's the diagram. The R5/J17 relay on the top. J362 is the ECU The "a" connection then continues to S4 fuse, which also powers injectors. Makes me think if someone connected it right to the 15 lead to bypass the immobiliser (not sure if it disconnects just the fuel pump relay or disables injector outputs, too on the 1.6)

Thanks for upload. Definitely gives an insight to my Issue :) The file can be opened in Excel. Here's what I put together after a quick look. Starting at timestamp 417.51. The first column is throttle valve angle, second is engine RPM, next is specified and actual boost. The actual boost value follows specified boost, except for engine speed under 2000RPM. Does it correlate with how the car feels?

If it helps, I found someone who logged their TSI here The OP also had some issues, but claimed that during the logging, the engine worked fine and values look OK.. so it should provide some data for reference.

I can't give you PNs, but there are several things different on the engine itself: Pistons (higher CR) Camshaft (different profile, different bearing size on majority of engines, which also means different timing chain sprockets) Head (7mm valve stems, conical springs, though this is not necessary So it may be easier to just get the entire donor engine. Regarding the knock sensor boss, I think that 136M actually has it in different place (closer to the gearbox, above reinforcement rib), unless there were some 136Bs from transfer period.

@Breezy_Pete Hello, I stumbled upon this topic. Have you been able to get some data from this? Looks it may be the culprit of my issues, some data would help greatly. How exactly did the car behave before the change and has the problem been resolved?

So the service had some time to take some measurements and was able to replicate the fail. Apparently the turbo only pushes around 1.3-1.5 bar absolute in 2000-3000RPM when specified pressure is around 1.8. full pressure is only reached beyond 3000RPM. Wastegate actuator position seems to correspond with driving voltage and changes in specified pressure, but I noticed that at some points, voltage goes above endpoint setting and the actual position goes negative. If I understood it correctly, 0 should be fully closed wastegate, right? Or is there some extra range on these engines and the wastegate never really shuts off? Also, what is normal voltage range with wastegate shut on these engines? On mine, the endpoint adaptation is at 3.8V, but when it goes negative, it goes up to 4.2V. I'm asking, because my turbo is the older type, with 2mm spacer fitted between the actuator and its mount. From what I could found on forums, this spacer changes endpoint voltage from ~4.2 to ~3.6V, so this could mean that something wore enough to make the spacer ineffective? But why didn't ECU adapt to this wear then?

Looks like charging is fine. After deleting the faults and driving until the issue reappeared, only the P155A error persisted. Could it be anything else besides the wastegate actuator and turbo itself?

Thanks, I'll check it

You reminded me - the battery died shortly after this happened for the first time. But it was still original from 2012, so I didn't think much of it. However, new battery didn't fix the issue.

Hi, hopefully you won't mind my question here - I don't have an Octavia, but its close relative from a Spanish brand. But mechanically, they are same. Anyway, I have a 77kW CBZB. It worked flawlessly for the year I own the car, but when this summer started, I noticed occasional loss of power. It only happens in hot weather (around 30 degrees and up) with AC on. In most cases, it happened when I wanted to accelerate after mild climbing at lower gear at ~2000RPM. It feels almost like a limp mode, but no check light and I can still somewhat accelerate to around 60mph. Observing fuel consumption, it drops from 11-12l full throttle on 5th gear to around 9l/100km, so between 20-30% of the engine power is lost. Diagnostics have shown code P155A and P0299. That would suggest turbo regulation, but that's usually accompanied with P334A/B/C error. Also, it's weird it only happens in hot weather with AC on. When I tried to replicate the issue, without AC, it didn't happen even in the recent heatwave. Anyone can point me in the right direction? I don't want to just start swapping parts without proper diagnosis of the issue. Also, what's the difference between P155A and P0299? Both point to under boost issues, but it seems they are triggered by different problems. If anyone explained me what are conditions for these issues, it would be very helpful. Thanks in advance!