Papez

There must've been something wrong if it wasn't, those numbers aren't that far from the stock ARC/AVY engine.

Does the 1.4 Fabia crankshaft help with resonance? It appears that it's a bit more rigid between main bearings, and most powerful builds run them. Anyway, it's quite amazing that the owner of the car from the video have been able to transform the anvil that VW called an engine into such monster.

It's not THAT bad, the lower end is stil above the stock, at least according to their graph Ironically, at least in my case, 4000 RPM was better than 3500 - there was some sort of resonance around that speed. Without mass damper on the right driveshaft, it was even worse, at 3000RPM.

Chip alone doesn't do much. Reputable modders at least change the camshaft - MPI has a little reserve here, since the factory targeted to improve low RPM torque compared to SPI unit. For example Motor Excel provided camshaft+remap for ~60kW, but it moved the peak torque above 4000RPM. Anything beyond that became just increasingly more expensive for smaller improvements. Edit:Source - live site is not available anymore

Especially braking. Non-vented 239mm front brakes are barely sufficient for the stock car.

No, Felicia doesn't have ignition on the iso plug, both wires are battery +12V. You need to make sure that your head unit doesn't consume much power when it's powered off. There's not much that could be done with the 1.3 engine without spending a lot of money. The air cone may actually hurt the engine, since the stock box has quite good cold intake solution and was designed for a more powerful engines.

You don't need new cap, just the seal that goes around it - original PN is 047103487

@memoliI don't understand your reaction, are you expecting we will be pulling dashboards out of our cars and figuring everything out for you? I've spent quite some time trying to search the answer, posted here all I found and advised how to do the rest and all I got for thanks is a facepalm emoji? Way to go! Good luck with your project.

I didn't find any documentation.. you can figure it yourself. since you need to remove the cluster anyway, you can connect it and check each LED and flip it, when needed, before you reassemble the dasboard. Other method would be tracing the lines.

I found something. Pictured from the instruments side. The description says, that for indicator lights, negative is on the top, positive on the bottom.

OBD port was added in Felicia with MPI engines. Even if Favorit had OBD port, it wouldn't help, since its ECU manages just the engine and nothing else. Fuel injected Favorit's only had proprietary diagnostic port. Skoda-parts.com still has washer pump made in CZ, if you don't mind higher price and shipping costs. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/115930290-windscreen-washer-pump-czech-republic-1867.html

You also need to pair immo unit to the ECU - that's done through diagnostic tools, but I can't say how, but I had it done when I changed ECU in my car.

This is wrong part, for different model of MK2 caddy. This is why finding that part is so hard - there were two variants of MK2 Caddy (neither manufactured by VW) - one based on Ibiza/Inca (6K/9K model) and one based on Felicia/Pickup (6U/9U model). Of course those models are entirely different with only handful of shared parts. The grill can be identified by shape of headlights - Felicia based caddy has rounded inner edges, while Inca is more rectangular. The correct part number is 6U7853651A+6U7853653 Unfortunately cannot help much more. Caddy pickups were only available for certain market, so those parts are even more scarce than Felicia ones. It was quite popular modification back in the day, called "Caddy grille" - most remaining grilles are most likely used by Felicia enthusiasts for this purpose.

Not the right part, as said before: I've been only able to find number of a similar part in Skoda Estelle - 113032313. It's reffered to as a "holder". While I was able to find image of the correct part in the Favorit catalogue (it's under the air filter category instead of cylinder head), part number for the entry was missing.

If you want rigid front - 1.3 pickups had similar spring rates to 1.9. the problem is how to get stiffe rear, pickups had different rear axle, hatchback require progressive springs to get stiffer, while keeping original ride height and suspension travel.

If I remember right table in the service manual, the only difference between 1.3 and 1.6 springs is length - some higher equipped/heavier 1.3s had same springs as 1.6s. the result will be slightly higher ride height with same stiffness.

Your topics are nothing but irrelevant posts, so no harm was done. The other thread was actually useful. Forgot to turn on ignore notifications. Will fix it now. I haven't mentioned USSR one time. Don't thinks it's accidental, since you use xenophobic and racists remark all the time, hence I have no further interest in interacting with you.

So which one? Vinyl is pvc. Remember this before you post in other topics. And don't ever try to make connection between Czechoslovakia an USSR again. That crossed the line and you to ignore now.

I think this is matter of installation, as long as the pedal has proper anti-slip features and no self-tappers peeking from the other side of the pedal, it's good. Same with steering wheels, some installations are sketchy.. Once deformation gets to the suspension subframe, it pushes steering wheel up, around it's mounting. Just in time to meet with drivers head traveling in the opposite direction. Felicias with airbag had accordion-like steering column, which deformed to keep the steering wheel in place. I think that main reason for that is, that its rear half and front wheels come from Jawa motorcycle 😁 Here's it's not even called a car, but "vozítko" (diminutive of vehicle).

Why irony? There's no reason in making things worse than they are. Especially in a car that likes to launch its steering wheel into driver's face. But otherwise, there's pretty big chance of survival in Felicia, it's much safer than previous cars.. speaking of which, even Estelles had soft steering wheels from factory. It's not a car, but "a vehicle for handicapped" and legally a bike. It was laughable even in 60's CSSR, with nicknames like "running tent" or "hadraplán" (hadr - rag, plán - airplane, also parody of much more luxurious Tatra 600 "Tatraplán"). Of course, just like 2CVs, they've became icons of "so bad, it's good".

He didn't write that. It describes texture, not material. Then there are other VW wheels mentioned earlier in the topic, which can be customised in the same way. Agreed. I also liked leather seats with fabric center in relative's Superb. I never really liked plush seats in GLX and other 90's cars - I don't understand why it was considered "premium" back then. Isn't leatherette and vinyl the same thing? I thought that leatherette is just textured, soft PVC When I hear leatherette, I imagine two things: train seats I posted above (thank god those are gone) and this:

What's the issue this time? The shape is correct now, isn't it? Well, that looks much better. Although I still don't agree with bare metal in the center. Before you said that you have same material as steering wheel, which is polyurethane. But synthetic leather isn't much better... It was always cheap, easy to clean option.. It was awful, I can't imagine how it feels to sit on this in south Europe.

You have PUR seat covers? Ew... That's more to do with steering wheel position, not shape. And if you have nice grippy material, you don't need to hold the wheel to the point of fatigue. Forgot to add a picture: It was standard with airbags, precisely to avoid steering wheel movement during crash.

Again, the answer is, leather. Good for 10+ years. For the price of the last steering wheel, you could have the stock one newly upholstered

The steering wheel lifts even in lighter, survivable crashes in Felicias without collapsible column. The stock one at least doesn't transform into cleaver.