nazitf

Thanks for all the replies. What’s confusing (for me at least!!) is that there is oil staining on the highlighted part of the dipstick below. Is this normal i.e. when it rubs the inside of the dipstick tube as its pulled out or is it indicative of the oil level in the sump? Note, I fully cleaned the dipstick so that there was no oil on it before reinserting it.

Second approach was 1. Remove dipstick 2. Clean dipstick 3. Reinsert till just before it ‘clicks’ 4. Take the reading Here’s the photos If its only slightly over then I’m not worried but since the grey blob on the right hand side is also covered in oil, does this mean its over filled to that level? Its weird that the grey plastic section doesn't extend much above the high level markings since its makes reading an overfill much harder! Any advice on reading this oil level would be most helpful!

I noticed a small oily patch under the car & so after checking all the fluids levels myself and noting that they were all at the right level, I took it in to an independent vag garage for inspection. They couldn’t find the source of the leak but observed oil in the undertray and concluded it was definitely engine oil. The car was on a slight slope whilst I paid the garage for the labour time. I drove off this slope and on to a flat road next to the garage. The mechanic rechecked the oil level & we both saw it was about half the level on the hatched area. He added about 1 litre of oil and rechecked and it showed it covered the top of the hatched area of the dip stick. Fast forward two weeks and I haven’t noticed any more oil patches under the car. When I check the oil level with the dipstick, to me (as a novice) it appears to be overfilled. My question is how can one tell if there’s too much oil? It’s easy to tell if the oil level is less than the high end of the hatched area but much harder to work out by how much it is over the recommended maximum level. I tried two different ways to read this (both when the engine was cold on a flat surface) & apologies for the really bad quality of photos. 1. Remove dipstick 2. Clean dipstick 3. Reinsert till it ‘clicks’ 4. Take the reading Here’s the photo:

I appear to have made the same mistake! I bought this one (picture also attached) and found it was receiving power when connected & the car scanner app connected to the ELM but there was no successful connection to the ECU; it kept cycling through different protocols trying to detect the right one and failing each time. How can one tell if its a genuine OBDII reader? I'm only looking for a basic one but also want to avoid the fake ones!

Does VW use an integrated transmission cooler to cool the transmission fluid? I came across this video describing a problem with Mercedes & Nissan transmissions that failed due to contamination with coolant and so wanted to know if we are also at risk of this problem occurring. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wW4YbQVY7yo

I too am looking for a basic one to just read and clear codes. I found this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pumpkin-Interface-Wireless-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B011O69946 but not sure if it will read the airbag, transmission, ABS, and other module codes. Does anyone have any experience of using this or any suggested alternatives? I'm trying to avoid getting a super fancy one since I just want to be better informed about the possible cause of a problem. Thanks

Hey Silver, I'm interested on what your on-board computer reads on a typical daily commute. Appreciate there will be many variables affecting the reading but just an approx range would be useful. Want to get a sense of how much extra the maxi-dot 'adds' on.

Hi everyone, I recently had my DSG fluid and filter changed and the mechanic must have spilt some DSG fluid on an engine component below the filter housing. Just wondering if I need to try and clean this up? I'm not sure what component is below the filter and whether it may get affected by transmission oil sitting on it / getting in it. Photo below to illustrate what I mean. Thanks

I’d also like to know the answer to this. Often I’ve had a higher outside temperature than what has been selected on the climate control. With the AC switched off, I still get slightly cooled air entering the cabin, certainly not as cold as when the AC is on but it did make me wonder whether the AC system is ever completely turned off?

I'm looking to get my oil changed and will use an oil which meets the VW 507 00 specification but how do people further differentiate between the different brands? I'm happy to pay a premium if it brings additional value but so far I’ve not come across any information to rationally make a comparison between brands.

I've not yet changed the filter as the problem resolved itself and hasn't since come back. Skoda say the fuel filter should be good for 60k and I've only done half of that. If the symptoms reappear, I will definitely get the filter changed. Is that done by turning the ignition key to the point which is just before the engine starts?

No loss of power and no other performance related issues occurred. The fuel filter is less than two years old. It appears that this problem only lasted about 24 hours, spanning two journeys each approximately one hour since it has now magically resolved itself! Perhaps it was something that was hindering the flow through the fuel pump or perhaps it was dodgy bit of diesel that went through the system? Either way, I’m glad its back to normal - if only all problems were resolved in this way!

I hearing a high pitched squeaking noise coming from the back of the cabin. At first I thought it was the radio or perhaps the cooling fans but with both switched off I still get a continuous high pitched tone. It’s hard to isolate exactly where it’s coming from but it’s definitely from the mid/back of the cabin. It occurred for most of my one hour journey today and very occasionally disappeared altogether but would come back again in less than a minute. The noise was independent of the throttle use and there was only one occasion during the journey where the car stopped in start-stop mode however the noise had resolved itself just prior to the start-stop and didn’t immediately come back after starting again, but did return about 30 seconds later. Any thoughts on what could be causing this?

Thank you for the tip!! I’ve also been plagued with the overfill protection going off too early and its really annoying when you’re trying to fill up the tank from empty. I originally thought it was the forecourt fuel pump at fault but the same problem occurs no matter which pump I use. I’ll try pulling the nozzle a little further out of the tank next time to see if that solves the problem.

I can easily adjust my rear view mirror from left to right (i.e. in the horizontal plane) but it seems less willing to be adjusted vertically - there is no movement at all. Is this the same for everyone else or am I not pushing hard enough?