spaniels fr

Never bothered changing mine between the settings, just stuck it straight to the tightest setting. Worked fantastically on the car, such a major upgrade imho. I now have my spare one in the garage, gonna strip it down and get it powder coated and then sell on once i get some more clips made up. I'm tempted to even modify it further and make it into a super stiff setting see how that pans out

:lol: guys im glad you find them amusing Sparkie your comeback one was awsome, was literally crying when i watched it for the first time

Touche with the banning stick ram rod Much loves

Sparkie, feel free to come back with your own video effort

Hi Guys, just made this i think you'll find it amusing http://www.xtranormal.com/watch?e=20091012141427688 And here's another i did yesterday http://www.xtranormal.com/watch?e=20091011165727660 Enjoy Sorry, forgot to say, it may take a bit of time loading, but its worth it in the end 2nd one especially

With regards to the rust, i also had one that rusted after 2 months pretty badly, after taking it off the car after 16 months it was pretty bad, i did recieve a new one from awsome gti though FOC and never returned the damaged one...... i'm gonna get that shot blasted and powder coated then make another kit up and see where we go from there to sell it

Yes the DSG does also have a dmf, but unlike a normal manual there is no clutch is mounted to the unit due to the gearbox having the 2 clutches already in the car.

Ok, well if you want a response, then i thought id try to inform you, bearing in mind i work for sachs as a warranty inspector, i think i could potentially help out the most Ok, so here goes...... DMF's have been installed onto almost every new diesel engined car on the market over the past 5-10 yrs. Due to the performance these newer diesels give they produce much higher engine harmonics due to the stronger power pulses when the fuel is compressed and ignited. How to destroy a dmf is simple, and this can be caused through numerous different things, alot of which have already been said but just to confirm *Driving in too high a gear at low engine rpm, this will cause the dmf to work to its maximum designed tolerances, making it bounce from one travel stop to the other.... this will also screw up the torsion damper on the driven plate ( kind of the same principle a dmf has which is to dampen out the power pulses produced from the engine) *Doing agressive launches, when i had my hybrid'd ibiza fr tdi, this still ran the dmf, i knew from working for sachs that unless the car was going to be a track day toy then the dmf needed to stay. If you take away all that damping the dmf does, and replace it for a SMF where is all the vibration going to go? gearbox maybe? and you can guarantee that a fu*ked gearbox will cost more than a DMF. Anyways, hard launches are not advisable, i did it and it was fine up until i wrote it off at 25k miles, this included at least 20 launches at santa pod, inc 1x 2nd gear launch. * Heat is another thing that can kill these DMF's. If you cook the clutch, and completely burn it out, then the chances are that the DMF will be fooked too. Heat dessipation that is transferred into the dmf from the clutch could potentially cook the grease inside the dmf. I did a claim yesterday on a merc sprinter 311cdi, this had been in 3 weeks, done under 1k miles and the thing was scrap. The whole unit had been exposed to extreame heat from the clutch slipping. *If the internal parts in the dmf break up, then they could and will punch a whole in the rear of the dmf, sending all this nice black tar like grease spewing all around the bell housing of the gear box. For those of you who are curious as to how the dmf works, see this link here If any one has any more questions they need answering please dont hesitate to ask. Regards Daniel

Ome good pics and video's in there matey.... looking at them makes me want to go back again.......

ok, ill get a thread started tonight after work, then see how things go.....

So is anyone going to arrange a meet? or shall i try to do one in coventry instead?

Its a shame this is on a monday as i may have been tempted to do it..... been there in November in my cupra with SCN and it was absolutly fantastic..... if anyone gets the chance to do Cadwell id deffo recomend it as its an awsome track

Why not make one in Coventry then? im from rugby and when i used to be on SCN we would organise a meet in the summer at Coombe Abbey or if it was wet we would go to a Brewers Fayre just off Jct2 of the m6 near the Showcase Cinema..... anyone interested in doing one there?

some 4 wheel drifting going on then told my mate to go out in his R32 yesterday for a play in the snow..... he wasnt having any of it though lol, what a gay :p

Cover number is 88 3082 000 826 plate organic 88 1864 999 980 plate paddle (sintered) 88 1864 999 969 vehicle selection vehicle selection KTYP-No KBA-Nr Type Mine truck id motor code 1. vehicle category : 2. manufacturer: SKODA 3. model list: FABIA (6Y2) 4. type : 1.9 TDI RS Engine capacity : 96 kW / 130 HP displacement : 1896 ccm model year : 06/2003 - KBA-Nr: 8004393, 8004ABT country limitation: (not valid for) CDN, USA kind of vehicle-KTYP-No : 1-17456 motor code ASZ BLT mounting tips brand part nr. part part info 1 SACHS (ZF SRE) 883089 000052 Clutch Kit Performance Diameter [mm]: 240 Supplementary Article/Supplementary Info 2: With screws Hub Profile: 21,8 x 24,2 - 23 max. transmittable engine torque [Nm]: 530 Number of Teeth: 23 Clutch: for vehicles with single disc clutch ONLY FOR MOTORSPORT! Contains rigid flywheel, clutch cover assembly and clutch disc torsion damper plate with organic facings Without releaser not pre-assembled 2 SACHS (ZF SRE) 883089 000053 Clutch Kit Performance Diameter [mm]: 240 Supplementary Article/Supplementary Info 2: With screws Hub Profile: 21,8 x 24,2 - 23 max. transmittable engine torque [Nm]: 600 Number of Teeth: 23 Clutch: for vehicles with single disc clutch ONLY FOR MOTORSPORT! Contains rigid flywheel, clutch cover assembly and clutch disc torsion damper sintered plate Without releaser not pre-assembled 3 SACHS (ZF SRE) 883082 000826 Clutch Pressure Plate Performance Diameter [mm]: 240 Heavy Duty Version: Parameter: M240 Only install together 4 SACHS (ZF SRE) 881864 999969 Clutch Disc Performance Only install together Number of Teeth: 23 Hub Profile: 21,8x24,2-23N Parameter: 240S Diameter [mm]: 240 rigid sintered plate 5 SACHS (ZF SRE) 881864 999980 Clutch Disc Performance Only install together Number of Teeth: 23 Hub Profile: 21,8x24,2-23N Parameter: 240D Diameter [mm]: 240 rigid clutch plate with organic facings 6 SACHS (ZF SRE) 613182 997901 Central Slave Cylinder, clutch Parameter: HHIS Renew everytime

arnt these kits the ones with the smf aswell????

Hi Guys, sorry to dissapoint but the plan i had has been shot down in flames im afraid. :( god dam mofo's :(

rear arb and spacers would be the best bet imho totally transforms the car and not too expensive either....

Rear strut brace didnt cost me anything as i got it free from Forge gave them my old one which they looked at and then designed there own..... sold my older one on to a mate

tbh, i was suprised about the mpg average aswell, mines running full stage 2 revo, 4 bar etc etc and i can get it lower than that on the roads sometimes, but i can assure you it wasnt hanging around, 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear were all foot to the floor, apart from when i was coming through the corners...... that was probably 3.4 throttle, but like you said, maybe cadwell was more suited to my set up, as you could use the changing cambers etc etc. After re reading my previous post it does come across as im slating you but i wasnt, this is what forums are for, giving people advise. Im going to look at doing donnington park next year sometime and your right, i may well cook the brakes on that track as they have longer straights than cadwell..... think i only hit about 120 at cadwell and then braked hardish..... Ill agree withthe tyres too, i bought them not expecting anything due to the price, i have yoko parada spec 2 on my normal wheels and these are great in the dry, but cack in the wet. It did shock me how quickly the nankangs started to heat up though, but as they were only for winter and track use i wasnt too bothered about them getting shagged. Will be changing the discs and pads all round though in january as the fronts are just about finished off now. Not sure if ill put the AP standard pads in the fronts or some uprated ones, as ill be going grooved discs and uprated fluid too..... The octy may well handle differently on track due to the added weight, id deffo advise rear spacers, rear arb and strut braces though if he hasnt already got them. A friend of mine has a LCR with coilies, arb all round etc etc and that handles like a go kart

lol, no argument matey..... and its a good question to ask, but working within the sachs warranty department, and also seeing dmf's made on the production line in germany, just wanted to make sure everyones mind was clear about why its important to have a dmf, and how or why they break.

no worries, not your fault hes a pleb, maybe next time ill try to force him off the track lol

No, that information is quite inaccurate actually. Sachs did indeed invest and make the VAG flywheel, as did LUK, however, on newer PD140/170 engines, the LUK had the faults with them, as they had potentially the possibility to cause fire in extreme cases.Sachs OE and Sachs Aftermarket stuff is all produced on the same production line, nobody knows where it is going to end up, be it OE or Aftermarket. Sachs OE had a 0.01% failure per 1 million dmf's sold, so how come in the aftermarket we see so many back? its not due to the DMF ****ing up, its due to other parts being worn on the engine,gearbox or elsewhere in the transmission. As for sachs producing SMF, this is also inaccurate information. Ill agree, yes they do do them, and now do kits, but only from SRE ( Sachs Race Engineering) and not SACHS OE or Aftermarket. The SRE stuff is for Race purpose or Fast road stuff. Now, i do belive that Valeo do a 4 piece replacement for the DMF on the Octavia's mk1, this includes SMF, clutch and brg, and Skoda do offer this as an option i belive at dealers when they go in for a replacement clutch, but 90% of the people that have these are taxies, and the people that drive them are thick as **** who drive in too high a gear at too low an rpm, and this is what screws the DMF. When people change a dmf on a car that has done 60,70,80k miles, and then they have problems, the inital though that is the problem is the parts they have just replaced, but in actual fact, due to the newer parts having less tolerance than the used parts, it just highlights an existing issue that the worn dmf didnt...... This is my take on your comment anyways. Feel free to tell me im wrong.

TBH i would have to question some of this advice, i had half worn pads, and discs when i went to cadwell, and if you drive correct then you wont overheat the brakes imho. If you get tuition then you get told when to break, change gear, turn in and accelerate etc etc, and late braking is what causes brakes to over heat, but doesnt mean your gonna be fastest out there...... As for the tyres, like i stated above, i had Nankangs on mine, all 4 were brand new, and even when you felt them going off as they were getting hot, they still gripped very very well, no understeer or anything...... Brakes after 10 hard laps were fine, and only once when i came in did they have smoke coming off them, but never got any fade, just a tad of abs kicking in which wasnt a problem imho

Yeah i wasnt branding you with the same brush, alot of people were considerate, although the **** in the white integra with stickers and stuff all over it, he was a plank. Was out getting tuition with the instructer down the back straight doing about 110 before the sweeping left hander, and he forced his way past going into the corner, when we came in the instructor made sure he got pulled in for a warning...... I thought the CTR may have been a bit more fair game for me though considering they were stripped out with coilovers etc etc, but they wernt :s