Kevinmaj

Thank you for your detailed advice on getting the right pads for a Skoda Superb Estate from EBC. Will order mine now. Where would be best place to buy EBC discs/pads for the fronts? Kind regards, Kevin

Hi All, thank you all for your advice here. Do you have any recommendations for a remapping company in the London area or Midlands? I'm on an extended warranty with Skoda, would this be affected by a remap? I kinda know the answer is yes but just wanted confirmation.

Many thanks K.Young for that. I really needed someone with 1st hand experience for some advice. Really like my 2018 Sportline 2l 150BHP and much better than my 2016 L&K 150 BHP in terms of performance but figured i could go better and interesting to know hardware wise it is different between the 150 & 190 BHP.

Hi All, I just wanted to get some advice on from the community on whether it is worth doing the above? I've read a lot about remapping these engines is only a good thing. Would this increase the BHP to the 190 version? In fact, i was wondering what the difference would be engine wise between the two models. I can't imagine it's a different engine, so what is actually different between the two? I do like the paddle shift on the Sportline versus my previous L&K and certainly makes a difference accelerating over just using Sport Mode. Any/all advice would be gratefully received. Many thanks in advance.

Hi mate, I recently got a P0673 error on my 2018 Skoda Superb using my cheap OBD reader so wanted to let you know that Glow Plug 3 is the expensive one of the 4 with a pressure sensor i believe, so not sure you can just swap it out like you state (i'm not a mechanic). I took my car into Skoda as advised under my Extended Warranty and they confirmed the code error using their readers and replaced the spark plug under warranty. I'm very happy I took an extended warranty one out on the car now directly with Skoda.

Hi guys, hope this helps. As mentioned already in this thread I bought my replacement struts on ebay for the same reasons stated. I spent around £240ish because those came with a two year guarantee. It was installed by my local mechanic in under an hour and didn't seem complicated at all. Connections are made within the top inner pillars of the boot. Had no issues since and they also worked with the virtual peddle on my L&K.

Yes that is correct. Some DSG gearboxes need a service every 40,000 miles, and some newer ones need one at 80,000, or it's every 5 years. Personally, I wouldn't risk it due to the costs of fixing such issues.

Really sorry to hear about your issues Ian and hope they get resolved soon. From experience you would hope a main dealer would be able to diagnose the issue and fix it, especially if they are charging you top dollar for the works. I had a similar issue initially with my last 2016 L&K, it was leaking coolant whenever it felt like and was having to continually top up for many weeks, but some days it would be fine driving and others were not and it would just leak the coolant. This was in 2020 when Covid hit so dealer would not take the car in. Luckily the car went in eventually as it needed a new cam belt/water pump @100K miles and they found an issue I believe with coolant tank and just replaced it at no cost to me (just the cam belt/water pump) , perhaps because it took a long time to get the car booked in. They are great cars when they work and I've just bought another one after issues with the DPF but a Sportline this time. The last car had a lot of miles on it when i bought it and despite a FSH I don't think it was well looked after.

Hi RSB, Something similar happened to me and only got worse over a matter of months. So like yourself very unusual to keep topping up coolant and the problem is that my car would hold the coolant level for some time and then suddenly one day it would drop. And basically this got worse and worse for me to the point months later that i could clearly see dumped coolant on the ground. I was due for a cambelt and water pump replacement (unsure if it's linked) at 100K but Covid hit and it took sometime to get the car in. Long story short the Skoda garage that did the work eventually found a problem with the coolant tank valve/reservoir (i'm not too sure tbh) but replaced the part (did not charge me for that part given all the issues i had with booking the car in) and seemed inexpensive I assume. Not had a problem since. Hope it helps.

Hi Steve, the code is clearly visible with boot open and close to the start of the strut and is the first code starting with 3V9. See attached image of mine. OE code is the same apart from the last 3 characters but it was clear it should fit from the code. Because you have a newer version of the car I wanted you to double check.

I would hope so too. Three years is far too soon, even 6 in my case takes the biscuit.

No problem Steve. Let us know how you get on.

I would say to double check your OE codes with the ebay listing, they are written on your struts

Hi there Welshbloke, Sorry to hear you have a similar issue on your car and it's only a few years old. I certainly would not be happy, I wasn't with my car and that's a 2016 model. Anyway, yes you are right. They are a straight swap out (however the motorised struts are left and right specific) and the wiring plugs are in the inside pillars but not too hard to get to once trim is off. Here's the one I used because they had a two year warranty and can confirm they work perfectly. The foot paddle release seems to have gone but i can live with that, will look into further when i have some time. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174916671926?hash=item28b9d899b6:g:nZkAAOSwYHNhyrls Hope that helps. Cheers, Kev

Many thanks to Many thanks SashaGrace and the thread/community. I just had the same issue on my 2016 Diesel L&K and helped me fix the problem from the dreaded beeps happening one day. Bought some new struts off ebay for around £250 and just fitted and got the electric tailgate back thankfully. By far one of the most useful features on the car.