hrvrs

Hi all, been noticing this happening more frequently with my Octavia recently... Happens most often when approaching a junction where I need to stop, as I approach I drop to 2nd, then put the car out of gear, the revs drop down but seem to get stuck at around 2000 for between one and several seconds before dropping down to normal idle It will also sometimes do this if the car is in gear causing a swift application of the brakes to get her slowed down... I've searched the forums, but didn't find much that seemed applicable to this situation, if anyone has any bright ideas where to start looking it would be much appreciated 🙂

Stock shocks, they had ~125,000km on them and I figured I'd see if they lasted with the new springs, no issues so far and we're on 142k now, when they go it'll get Eibachs or similar The ride quality is reasonable, considering the reduced suspension travel and tyre compression available, it's noticeably different but no more than you'd expect it to be It's been a year now and the downsides would be increased likelihood of grounding the engine sump, and four up with adults plus luggage if you hit a whooping motorway joint expect the rear tyres to rub a little, nothing serious but worth considering if you frequently have the car loaded up Still happy with mine, I accept the downsides because I like the style

I think the LHD/RHD thing won't affect them - certainly my LHD European car has the option to use left (RHD offside) or both rear fogs via VCDS I think the cars are configured in software depending on the market they operate... Certainly when I was looking for and purchasing the Dectane units the issue of left or right hand drive never came up But the hatch and estate versions are different shapes for sure

I think the car ECU will cut the power to a sidelight bulb when it detects a "fault", so if you turn on the ignition with no bulb and connect the meter afterwards it may not show much

I totally forgot to reply to your comment, they're now fitted and are every bit as tacky and wonderful as I expected, they drive the missus mad which is brilliant Completely invisible during the bright daylight, but at night they project well onto just about any surface, even gravel

Sorry to hear you had such problems, I'm onto my second order now and lots of them have been distributed to friends, all not having issues so far, maybe a bad batch? Hope you find what you're after, langers2k posted previously in this thread about some more expensive but branded options

Generally you can bet on Philips or Osram being decent, replace both or you'll likely experience colour differences as they do change as they age I replaced the HID bulbs on my Volvo with Osrams because the 10yr old OEMs were getting a bit dull, the logic being they're DRLs so are on all the time At the same time I swapped the Xenons in the VRS for a higher temperature, but I ordered a £10 pair from ebay expecting some cheap tat Could I tell you the difference sat side to side on my coffee table? Not a chance... If a pair of Osrams last a decade, the difference in cost means I only need the no-brands to last a couple of years to make them better value... Just a thought...

According to Eibach yes, that's 20mm, They only produce the Pro-Kit and Sportline kits which are -30mm and -50mm (-20mm and -40mm for vRS models) You can view the official 2017 Eibach catalogue here, 1Z3 Octavia is on page 252: https://eibach.com/de/sites/default/files/files/eibach-produktkatalog-2017.pdf I didn't measure mine before and after but I'm very happy with the result

OK, lots of misunderstandings going with these threads so I'll lay out what I know and let someone with more knowledge than me correct any mistakes. I'm not an auto-electrician but I've fitted HID and LED bulbs/kits to around ten of my own vehicles without issue... HID ballasts draw a similar current to whatever a rated halogen of the same wattage would, but only once the arc is established and settled - for the first few seconds the ballast will draw a higher current in order to strike the arc and stabilise it. An HID arc requires many thousands of volts to function, the ballast is what takes the 12v auto supply and converts it to this greatly higher voltage 35W HID draws less current than a 55W halogen bulb, 55W HID will draw about the same - simple electronics people... P= I x V LEDs simply draw less current to produce the same light output (halogens waste energy as heat) - so they will confuse the car's testing circuitry by not drawing the expected current and it will think a bulb has failed... Other than bulb failure warnings I don't foresee any way an LED bulb could damage the BCM, the relationship is very simple, all 12v, apply voltage, draw current, produce light... HIDs on the other hand, yes, I can see the unexpectedly high current draw at startup could confuse the BCM and even overload it, possibly before the fuse has time to heat up and blow to protect the circuitry. I would fit HIDs to an Octavia via a separate harness and a relay Hope that clears it up a little bit

Not normally a black wheel fan but they actually look quite mean... I'm also a size queen so perhaps it's just covering up the vast expanse of rubber surrounding them The offset and width are spot on though

The Eibach Pro-Kit is a -30mm drop from stock Eibach quote -20mm for the Pre-FL Octavia vRS, so presumably the difference of the vRS from stock is 10mm The also do the Sportline kit which will drop you another 20mm on top of this, but I think that wouldn't look as subtle An ideal drop for me equalises the arch gap at the top with those at the sides... Before: After: For these kinds of drops coilovers aren't needed unless you need to adjust the ride height, but I'd wager 99.9%, if not more, of coilover equipped cars get set once and then left at the same height forever...

19x8J ET35 will *just* protrude from the arch but shouldn't give you any issues with rubbing: Ignore the wonky pictures, car has been set up on a Hunter machine and is all to spec...

I was looking into budget coilovers recently, including the JOM and FK products The verdict was that for the money they're reasonable, but the part to read from that is "for the money" - expect longevity issues especially with paint rather than the powdercoat on more expensive kits, at the end of the day you're paying anything down to ~£50 per corner and for that they need to give you a spring and the damper, the money just isn't there... In the end I went for Eibach Pro-Kit springs because: 1. They're circa one third the price of coilovers... 2. If you only want a subtle drop and aren't chasing the "slammed" look then you have no need for coilovers... 3. The stock dampers are higher quality than anything you'll get in a budget kit, I'd wager even with some miles on them... 4. If/when the stock dampers need replacing I'll buy Bilsteins and have a setup far better than anything from the bargain bin... I paid €124 for the springs and the ride is excellent with stock dampers even with 19s, the drop is subtle and for me exactly what I wanted:

Easy DIY job but you'll be comfortable if the car is reasonably high off the ground Location is on the inner end of the left hand rear suspension arm, with the partner one on the front left the level of the vehicle is determined...

Possibly, but it could also be the phone camera having a slight fisheye and the angles being a bit off It's been to the alignment shop and they've set it up to Skoda specs on a Hunter system, so I'm happy enough with it

For the archaeologists who dig up this post in five years time I have 19x8J ET35 on the vRS with Eibach Pro-Kit (-30mm) springs They're what I'd call "aggressive", but they fit...

This is my understanding too, never heard of a noticeable difference in crank speed due to injectors not firing After an engine transplant or similar work you can fire up the car with the injectors disabled via software to check if everything is working before putting fuel through the motor, crank speed is effectively identical with or without injectors firing One thing that can noticeably affect crank sound and speed is issues with the cam belt/chain - if it's snapped you'll get all manner of oddities depending on whether you have an interference engine or not...

Surely the compression is dependent on the valve/piston seal and not injectors? Or have I missed something...

Hi both I checked when they went on that they were the same front and back, 8J Wheels are Audi RS4 replicas

H&R -50mm should give roughly what you seek, whether they'll be comfortable enough for you is a more subjective topic... What do H&R have to say about using a relatively large drop on stock dampers? I chose Eibach -30mm (-20mm on vRS) springs and I think the drop is about perfect, it went from this: ...to this... The wheels now have a reasonably constant gap at all parts of the wheel arch, I'm not a fan of dropping so far that they're closer at the top than the sides... The ride is less fidgety on small bumps up to around the size of a small speed bump, larger bumps need care or the suspension does crash a bit, but that's to be expected with lowered springs and 19" wheels They're installing a new main road here and they're scraped the old tarmac away, where the join is there's a ~50mm vertical step, I need to slow right down to 1st gear and creep over it, but then I'd probably have to do the same with stock setup Full disclosure: Mine are also ET35 Audi RS4 reps so they sit out more...

I improved the shift on mine by adjusting the cables - sounds difficult but really isn't: Refusal to come out of gear could also means your clutch isn't disengaging fully, could be an issue with the clutch, but I found on my vRS that the clutch must be fully depressed to get clean shifts into 1st and reverse, even having a car mat caught underneath was enough to cause issues (125,000km on the vehicle) You could also have play in the gearstick itself, is there excessive wobble in neutral or in gear? You could start replacing parts or have a stab at shimming the ball and socket (see other videos by dieselgeek on Youtube)

Those type are terrible, I bought around ten and the first handful failed within a month of installing, binned the rest I found that these can make it to around 12 months before the top LEDs burn out: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151702370542 Buy a decent number and keep them ready, non of the cheapy LED bulbs last forever but they do look good

Agree with the above, HID is better in dipped beams where beam pattern is extremely important, heed the warnings about installing kits and use a relay as fried control modules seem reasonably common I have LED bulbs in my high beam and they function very well, but the beam pattern is different to halogens or HIDs, both of which I've used previously...

I know people are discussing genuine switches here, but for those who meandered into this thread looking for options for less well specced cars I purchased this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Special-For-Skoda-New-Octavia-RS-Auto-Headlight-Light-Sensor-And-Green-Backlight-Switch-With-Installation/2052615996.html Fitted and it works perfectly...

Mine with new Eibach Pro Kit springs and 19" RS4 rep wheels fitted Also got new style front/rear badges, carbon wrap grille surround, TT short shifter and 20mm shaved off gearstick, and all filament bulbs replaced with HID or LED