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Car is in neutral at mo. I'll try CV joint puller with car in 6th gear. Thanks Rich Is the resistance of the outer CV joint the snap ring / circlip under outer CV joint or something else? Anymore advice appreciated. I never done CV joint before, but replaced whole suspension, bushes, ball joints, track rods etc. Will the outer CV joint go back on easier than it is coming off? It is turning into a real PITA job. Cheers

Thanks I'm further on than that!

It's in the kit I'm picking up tomorrow. Q1How to stop driveshaft spinning? This? Front wheels off ground on jack stands. Reading around someone suggested resting other wheel on front axle back on ground to stop other driveshaft turning. I took front left caliper off carrier for more access. Droplinks still attached. Q2 do I need to disconnect droplinks or anything else if other wheel rests on ground? Q3 Can I use CV joint puller whilst driveshaft on car? Laser seems to use tool whilst in situ, on car. Thanks

Haynes states if the driveshaft is removed a new inner CV joint to transmission flange is needed. You can bet there isn't one in the kit I'm picking up tomorrow. Thinking it might have easier to fit a whole new driveshaft....

Y, not buying stretch. I went to local bullseye. The kit £11 with "all bits". I asked if hub nut present, washers etc. Dutifully arrived later in week and kit contains only the CV boot and two metal pinch straps. I bought the GKN kit from CP4l. Photo and assistant said it got everything shown in photo for £17 minus discount. I'm picking up tomorrow. If I'm disappointed then it's the dealer. The puller only just fits over the CV joint metal cup. I had to remove paint that I added over years.

Part number below front left Yes, it's messy. I got gloves

I got the proper pinch tool and CV joint puller. Do I need a vice to use that CV joint puller and therefore take off the driveshaft. The steering arm doesn't need disconnecting just the ball joint , undoing the X3 13mm bolts. I got the puller on in situ but off course once I get some torque on the driveshaft spins...

Found this recent link. So I'm going to need the CV joint puller tool, crimp pliers. Any other new tools? I read a brass hammer, but seems overkill if I have that puller. Steering arm...I had the hub off the other side a few years ago to change hub (carrier threads stripped). I seem to remember taking it off driveshaft and having to put back on briefly because I'd not undone to steering arm nut and it had no counterforce when trying to undo it. So I don't think I need to remove steering arm. Going to get GKN kit (Dark side sell it so it must be okay?!)

Where can I get a quality boot kit? Dealers seem to sell everything individually. If the reviews (on here 2018) are that the boot lasts two years and then splits then I should steer clear of ECP. ECP took over Andrew Page, so they are gone, Bullseye is my local motor factors, never used them for CV boots. They seem good for some things , OEM etc and other parts, not so, eg. I had wipers last under one year which were priced highly. Do I need the boot fitting cone or just remove the old CV outer joint clean and repack with grease. Which grease? Apparently, the outer CV uses molybdenum grey grease and the inner CV joint is yellow? Do the washers, snap ring need replacing, hence the kit if I disturb the CV joint? This video was useful and straightforward. The ball joint is disconnected. Other videos on other cars show the steering arm disconnected. Can I get away without doing this to avoid upsetting tracking? Thanks Yes, I've seen these, are they not the equivalent of exhaust wrap and don't last long?

Just cleaning car underneath and noticed grease drips on front left wheel from a split in outer CV joint boot near the inner crimp. Probably caused during timing belt change with engine hoisted up straining rubber boot on driveshaft and age related wear. At 95k miles do I change the CV joint outer or just the rubber boot? I read CV joints do 70k to 130k miles. Reading on, I have to take the old CV joint outer out before fitting the new rubber boot. Or is this is what the CV boot tool is for? Which is recommended for the Fabia? Is it doable without taking off driveshaft, I don't want to mess with inner CV joint. Watched a few videos and some mechanics take CV outer joint off, some use the cone tool (and remove driveshaft into a bench vice). Opinions please? I just read the rubber boots and indeed CV joints sold by ECP/CP4L are not known for their longevity and the dealership is the best place to go. You get what you pay for etc. I was going to buy... GKN Lobro CV Boot Kit (Front Left or Right Outer)Product Code: 656444210 This has all the kit parts, grease and new hub nut etc. Looked good. What do you think? I have no clicking noises and just caught this leak in time it seems.

Yes, thank you. I'm taking it to garage next time. It is too infrequent a job that mistakes can be made. Had car out today and it pulls great, topped coolant up and changed engine oil. Went for 5w40 505.01 x flow pd. I think it is made by Comma. I was going to go back to 5w30 505.01 quantum plus but a lot of folk suggest 5w30 doesn't protect as much as 5w40 (both 505.01). Car doesn't burn oil but 5w30 always seemed too thin to me (engine seemed a little noisier) A lot of the 5w40 oils seem to target pump dushe (PD) engines when reading description on rear of oil container or even their brand name, eg TX pd 5w40 oil etc. Other than the 505.01 specification, I don't see 5w30 oils going out their way to state they are perfect for PD engines. What are people using in their PD that is 5w40? I got the X flow for £25 delivered. The 5w40 Quantum 505.01 is discontinued now which last two oil changes used. I change oil at 5k miles, less than one year.

Car engine undamaged. Timing was slightly out, then when the cam 3 bolts were loosened (without the cam locked) the cam spun freely and was out by 9 teeth 180 degrees on crank. In this position the car wasn't started and it would have damaged the engine valves. There was interference when turning crank by hand. Local garage did a splendid job correcting.

I put car together now Is it plausible though that a bent valve(s) would reduce clearance, would it not allow more clearance? Any endoscopes out there that can peer through glowplug hole? Garage want to remove head.

Neighbour who is towing car to garage with recovery wagon and is a car enthusiast said garage should have a go at timing themselves, he said this on basis that I got timing wrong once and was able to turn over engine manually without interference. Should I be able to get TDC on crank with cam key locked in? cam pin was definitely in the right place 4 to 5 o'clock on the cam sprocket. I was a tooth out of achieving TDC on crank, but unable to get locking key in for crank as I felt resistance when turning crank by hand. He said they might take off head to find no damage. Personally I'm in the damaged valve camp, but I can understand his logic.

Thanks for your kind words 😊 Last timing belt I tackle... Car is booked in now for head off and inspection. Looking at £600 if just the valves need replacing. Worth doing pd 150 head bolts when head put back on? I'll follow up on what damage done when I know in a couple of weeks.

I know! The crank was at the far end of its cycle. No wonder it has bent valves. Car has been started and the damage done. TDC is probably not achievable due to mangled valves. I cranked by hand and it was fine, no resistance before starting car up. No damage heard when starting. I ringing around garages now as I'm back at work next week. Local garage says they gonna take head off, replace valves and replace head and do compression test. Didn't quote me, any ideas on costing?

Long lasting damage if valves replaced? This is unfamiliar territory. I might want to hand this job over to a pro or get someone out. Any recommendations in S Yorkshire or W York's, I'm near Barnsley?

I have locked cam pin and removed belt. The crank won't get TDC either clockwise or anti clockwise. It stops short a tooth away meeting resistance. I guess the engine is fubar. This resistance is probably metal on metal. Scrap or rebuild?

It looks like it, but I've had a good look and no damage. Must be a shadow. I used phone light and torch to illuminate or a recess behind belt.

The cam pin wasn't in the correct hole. Here is a photo of it locked in head through cam at about 4 or 5 o'clock. About 13mm of metal pin is protruding. It took some finding. With cam pin locked in the crank is way out, 9 to 10 teeth out (lock not fully inserted in photo btw) See photo. Red mark is the TDC mark. To get it back I guess I will need to strip everything and take out belt? Is the engine likely damaged? Appreciate the prompt replies and help. Thank you.

For anyone following this, the old Dayco belt at 43k miles looked undamaged, although the Dayco tensioner I correctly set in 2014 with arrow in between window / slot (4yrs overdue) had slackened off. The tensioner bolt was tight (20nm plus 45 degree torque). Car had high idle revs on cold start, perhaps connected. Fitted INA tensioner kit this time. This kit comes with new tensioner bolt and idler bolt although I didn't have guts to remove. Need to get two nuts and counter force them if that works to remove stud. Video on it available. The tool is to measure length of protrusion of stud to ensure stud is fully inserted into engine block to stop cyclic wear. Aluminium engine and steel cause corrosion that loosens end of stud. Sheared stud then occurs... Interesting read https://autotechnician.co.uk/ina-vag-stud-tool-now-available/

Sep - ok, tomorrow I'll took off alternator belt and pulley over crank and set lock pins. Thanks for clear advice. More details for anyone struggling to follow. Sep can you clarify the cam lock pin hole(s) and the Q about the hole in the 'crown' both on cam sprocket. Previously, both locking pins were in. See crank lock below. White line at 11am. Barrel of lock behind that knob on lock key engaged into hole behind it, 'locked in' Sep - this is the bit I'm confused about. The cam lock pin hole, are there two positions? this is a photo of the cam locking pin slot where a hole for the cam locking tool is visible - is this correct? Are there two??? I can see two , one per slot. There are however, two 'slots' and a hole can be seen through both slots for the cam lock like the 2nd photo above. The cam lock pin did fit the slot. The third slot is the 'crown'. - see photo earlier on in first post. According to the link the hole shown in photo in first post needs to be in middle of the crown? Is this correct? It seems adjustment of cam sprocket clockwise so crown hole moved left and centralised allowed someone with similar issue to start engine. I have made this adjustment, but not started the engine. It would be wise to follow your instructions which I will do. I used one of the 2 slots for positioning the cam lock tool. Both allowed the lock tool same depth. The cam pin lock is not as secure as the crank but it stayed in throughout. I used the slot bottom left of bottom of crown like in skud missiles guide (looking at guide photo) , if it makes any difference which of the two slot holes on cam sprocket to use?

How so? Thanks

Could I damage valves when I turned over engine by hand? I did at least two or three belt rotations and the the ones I did previously as various bits were put back on, ie timing belt covers, aux belt. When hand cranking - Felt same as before with old timing belt and thereafter after attempting to start the car. VCDS - I read normal is plus3 to minus 3 and engine oil needs to be hot when setting. Clockwise on cam makes it more negative (so I read). Until car starts I can't get a value. Yeah cam position sensor error means it is throwing back no data 0 on torsion. So fire the car up? Going to be tomorrow.

Hi Steve, no smoke, no spluttering when starting. There is no ignition, car is not biting when turning key at all. Battery fully charged etc. Fuel filter was not touched, I managed to work around it. Question is, do I try starting it after adjusting those 3 x 13mm bolts on cam sprocket. The hole is now in the centre of the crown. My other question is if I can turn over the engine using the crank 19mm star socket will this mean there is no risk of interference between moving parts on engine? Thanks