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Maybe the extra weight of the new tread made it worse? Or are the new wheels Extra Load XL? If vrs 16" spider alloys 205 45 16 I believe the load values are 83 (no side wall reinforcement) or 87 (with reinforcement, XL).

If the rear alloy()s were damaged, IE had a buckle you would be at pains to notice it on the rear, although the vibration would still be there and might cause rear wheel bearing failure. Moving the rear wheels to front of car has simply made the buckled alloy(s) noticeable. You seem to have ruled out the tyres. Flat spots from an emergency brake will produce same effect as a buckled alloy, so new tyres won't have this. I suspect it is not the wheel balancing. I have lost weights on newly sprayed alloys and it didn't make too much difference compared to buckled alloys. The bigger inch the alloy the worse the effect. You could take the wheels to spin them on wheel balance machine. Use flat screwdriver to get out stone chips out of tread. Even a slight buckle will show a wobble and to be honest I would send it to scrap yard and look for a new alloy(s) (pair). Hope this helps.

Looks like credit card coming out! Thanks.

Hmmm I'm tempted. There is 15% off also. The Jabba is now group buy of 6 or more only. It lacks the drop links so I think the bar has slightly more clearance, but has no adjustments, and is pricey, particularly now if you have to buy 6!

Thanks. What setting do you have it on, low middle or stiff? Parking - I guess issues might occur when the inside of wheels are near curb with other 2 wheels on pavement?

Is a white line RARB worth fitting to counter body roll at standard driving speeds (not track), daily commute etc. Background. Stock suspension all replaced with cupra bushes (too harsh, but won't fail) and rest of suspension poly bushed all round front. Rear axle bush is OEM rubber, replaced. The front is stiff/ heavy and the rear rolls, but not excessively. Would a RARB help? Although I'm comparing oranges and lemons, a full replacement of the suspension on an Astra petrol with polybush, new shocks, springs resulted in very little body roll. Interested in hearing about people who have fitted to their car (reliability of product, noise, handling, etc). Not tracking car. Is ground clearance due to drop links , bar an issue? Kerbs, potholes, speed bumps? Thanks

I read about this on fabia.VRS.com Topic is discussed elsewhere on this forum. I contacted Dark side motors 'up road from me' in sunny Yorkshire. They said adding a smaller diameter hole in gasket than present would result in it blocking sooner if EGR retained. That made sense and I lived with it. Cleaning EGR annually will help perhaps. I bought some stuff bristled brushes to clean out the gunk from my car's EGR. Just watch no metal gets pushed into manifold. 3 Allen key bolts to remove ASV and gain access to EGR. One hour's work once you done it before. The EGR speeds up warm up of car coolant and engine oil so I didn't want to blank off. Also, might be an MOT fail on emissions?

Have you used front washers since changing pump? If not, you got plumbing wrong.

Winter grille (upper) very effective at reducing warm up time. Got an extra 2mpg (trip computer reading), like for like driving. Don't block lower grill as well, unless you want car to overheat. Biggest gripe with car is not having heating elements / demister in front window glass. Lethal combination is the condensation on glass (both sides!) with low sun on cold mornings.

Out of interest Quick question - does the tensioner not select the correct tension itself, like the Fabia mk1? I have changed Fabia timing belt myself. Does the Octavia 3 150 bhp TDI not have self tensioners? Anyone changed the Octavia 3 150bhp 2l timing belt themselves (of course use the locking key!)

Hi, it's the Octavia 2l diesel 150bhp. I also got a Fabia 1.9vrs. Car is on 36k miles but overdue on time, as it is every 4yrs. The offset spanner tool would save a lot of taking apart. I plan to do every 20 k miles as like most oil related maintenance the service intervals are way overstated in my opinion by manufacturers. I did a parallel engine oil change on both cars yesterday. It cannot be overstated the difference an engine oil change can make. Much quieter. After 5k miles I could smell a hint of the diesel in the engine oil, from the regenerations and interrupted ones. The Fabia, without DPF, nothing. Tip I picked up on here is to dip the oil filter in the fresh oil before inserting. There is a moment of no lubrication on starting when using a dry oil filter. Unfortunately, on the 2l Octy there are cables foiling access and it is a messy affair. I will do some more measuring and take a punt on whether to get a long or short offset spanner and report back if I found the correct one. Thanks

Whilst doing an engine oil change today I took a few pics of the gearbox dsg filter housing. It has 4cm of access above it before the battery above it. Taking the air hose and air filter box out would not help. Large Hex/allen female sump plug (above 10mm). Q is this the DSG filter? The bottom image is as viewed directly from above. There is plenty of room to get that offset spanner and long extension bar in there, saving taking out battery and its holder etc. Looks like the short tool would suffice

Great guide, thanks. Quick question. If you remove the battery, how can you connect VCDS / OBD2 port if vehicle has no power. I know a few people have opted for reading gear box temperature using a surface IR thermometers like used to read a child's temperature. Is it possible to remove the gear filter using the offset 24mm tool and easily reinsert a new paper filter element? Did you use long or short tool? From what I have read it looks like the long one on common rail engines. Short on petrol? There is a 4cm length difference so important not to waste £17 or so on wrong tool. I'm always happy to avoid dismantling the least number of parts, etc. Thoughts? Cheers

Does the filter or cap foil on the underside of the airbox? I can see it and get my hands on it etc. I have the pressurised fill tool through bottom of the DSG gear oil sump so I would not need to fill from above via filter. I read the nice guide on superb forum.

Hi all Anyone know whether a long or short offset spanner is needed to loosen the 24mm hex filter housing on a Octavia 2016 2l TDI 150bhp? From my research there is about 4cm between the two offset spanners which avoid the need to remove the airbox etc above the DSG oil filter. Thanks

Apologies Pab and thanks John

Thanks. Not too fussed about radio logos, most stations have one displayed already. Useful info. I will update with Pab's firmware/software first using my own 32gb SD card. To transfer to infotainment do I need to select the update option within the menu of Amundsen once the updated SD card is inserted? Thanks

He already provided a link a few weeks ago that I have yet to try. Will Pab's link cover all software eg phone compatibility, maps , radio logos etc. I got put off when Windows warned me of insecure site etc Here is the update SW update to:- (Removed) Yes, on Columbus update guide video, a generic 32gb SD card is shown but on Amundsen the video guide on Skoda update portal it suggests using the original Navigation SD card. Q What should I do tonight? Use Pab's weblink. Download to HDD then unzip to spare or formatted Skoda Nav SD card (which has first been copied as a backup)? In the car --> settings there is a 'update software' selectable option to further confuse. In the sticky for this forum about Amundsen mib 2 Sasha states that the software update should not be needed as not available to general public. I am updating as my infotainment is regularly crashing. Probably due to the new mobile phones connecting with the infotainment. Can't say for sure though, might be hardware. This is where Pan kindly stepped in to help. I just want to update without messing things up. Help appreciated.

Here it is, thanks.

Hi all, I am doing the first update on an Octavia 3 L&K due to excessive lag and random shutdowns of the infotainment. The map currently installed is ECE 2016. On the update portal http://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ I have found about 7 maps with various combinations of the countries of Europe. All are number ECE 1, ECE 2 with a month/year and so on. The software is a large zip file (6GB or more in some cases, 13GB). Q1 Which do I need (I'm in UK). I assume I need ECE 1 2020 Q2 I am not sure whether I have Amundsen or Columbus. I think it is Amudsen based on info on this site. I have a small display screen, no CD slot (just 2 SD slots). Q3 One further Q. Can I use any 32GB SD or do I need the one supplied by Skoda (security chipped?). If so, the Skoda website states to Format the card. Would it be wise to copy the SD card first? Q4 Are the updates for mobile devices and radio station logos separate? Thanks!

My exhaust has done nearly 90k miles and 13 years, which is pretty good for an exhaust. When the exhaust starts to blow what are the recommended options? Wino said not to buy a substandard exhaust, I agree. You don't want a noisy exhaust (or maybe some people do). I once did a full exhaust change, including catalyst rebuild when I found the lambda/O2 sensor on another car (Toyota Yaris) was welded in place. I found the new exhaust (ECP) didn't quite fit like the old one. The manifold I suspect had been changed as the dealer metal manifold to exhaust gasket was too small. Can Kwik fit stuff match OEM or is it worth paying for dealer part? Personally, I don't want a noisy exhaust for effects with a few bhp extra. Thanks

I think it is still erroring. I have reset unit using power button and reset factory settings. How likely is this error likely to return with a new headunit? Is it a common problem? Is the fault likely to be software on headunit or hardware? If software, could Skoda dealer reflash it? I read on this site someone who took the time and wrote an absolute essay on buying a preprogrammed unit to find it was not preprogrammed (from an auction site...). Sasha contributed to the thread and if the time comes I will get in touch. Would VCDS pick up any faults? At moment I have issues registering cable and now v20 installed the firmware on cable also needs updating. There is possibly software on my computer interfering with registration and updates. Ross Tech and Gendan contacted.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/413638-columbus-infotainment-system-problem/#comment-4728508 Google works better in the evening, it seems. These links are useful, but if you want the summary... 1 hold power button to switch off infotainment unit then continue to hold until unit switches on. This is a soft reboot. 2. Possibly try cleaning touchscreen with lens wipe / wet wipe tissues Worked for someone! 3. Buy a new headunit - possibly the bit in glovebox. But might as well upgrade infotainment display to Amundsen mib2 rather than 1 for £500 plus fitting recoding. I'm gonna try option 1 and 2.

I tend to use Google Maps due to live info and easy to see traffic density (coloured roads) When on hols in Cornwall and returning home to Yorkshire along M5 both Nav infotainment and Google Maps on Smartphone picked up a traffic problem, but Google maps picked it up first and 10mins ahead of the infotainment allowing me to take a detour and avoid the Glastonbury traffic queues behind the M5 closure. I got a paper map in boot (just in case electronic gadgets fail).

How? Download file from internet to usb or SD card? If so, do you have link? The symptoms of infotainment seem to be sluggishness in first few mins from engine startup. Is there a 'defragment' or clear memory cache (Is this akin to return to Factory Settings I seem to remember in infotainment menu?). Y, I will lose my presets etc Thanks Ps the off/on nature of infotainment does not coincide with bumps in road (loose wiring) . Seems totally random albeit it does occur in the earlier part of journey.