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Is a white line RARB worth fitting to counter body roll at standard driving speeds (not track), daily commute etc. Background. Stock suspension all replaced with cupra bushes (too harsh, but won't fail) and rest of suspension poly bushed all round front. Rear axle bush is OEM rubber, replaced. The front is stiff/ heavy and the rear rolls, but not excessively. Would a RARB help? Although I'm comparing oranges and lemons, a full replacement of the suspension on an Astra petrol with polybush, new shocks, springs resulted in very little body roll. Interested in hearing about people who have fitted to their car (reliability of product, noise, handling, etc). Not tracking car. Is ground clearance due to drop links , bar an issue? Kerbs, potholes, speed bumps? Thanks

I read about this on fabia.VRS.com Topic is discussed elsewhere on this forum. I contacted Dark side motors 'up road from me' in sunny Yorkshire. They said adding a smaller diameter hole in gasket than present would result in it blocking sooner if EGR retained. That made sense and I lived with it. Cleaning EGR annually will help perhaps. I bought some stuff bristled brushes to clean out the gunk from my car's EGR. Just watch no metal gets pushed into manifold. 3 Allen key bolts to remove ASV and gain access to EGR. One hour's work once you done it before. The EGR speeds up warm up of car coolant and engine oil so I didn't want to blank off. Also, might be an MOT fail on emissions?

Have you used front washers since changing pump? If not, you got plumbing wrong.

Winter grille (upper) very effective at reducing warm up time. Got an extra 2mpg (trip computer reading), like for like driving. Don't block lower grill as well, unless you want car to overheat. Biggest gripe with car is not having heating elements / demister in front window glass. Lethal combination is the condensation on glass (both sides!) with low sun on cold mornings.

Out of interest Quick question - does the tensioner not select the correct tension itself, like the Fabia mk1? I have changed Fabia timing belt myself. Does the Octavia 3 150 bhp TDI not have self tensioners? Anyone changed the Octavia 3 150bhp 2l timing belt themselves (of course use the locking key!)

Hi, it's the Octavia 2l diesel 150bhp. I also got a Fabia 1.9vrs. Car is on 36k miles but overdue on time, as it is every 4yrs. The offset spanner tool would save a lot of taking apart. I plan to do every 20 k miles as like most oil related maintenance the service intervals are way overstated in my opinion by manufacturers. I did a parallel engine oil change on both cars yesterday. It cannot be overstated the difference an engine oil change can make. Much quieter. After 5k miles I could smell a hint of the diesel in the engine oil, from the regenerations and interrupted ones. The Fabia, without DPF, nothing. Tip I picked up on here is to dip the oil filter in the fresh oil before inserting. There is a moment of no lubrication on starting when using a dry oil filter. Unfortunately, on the 2l Octy there are cables foiling access and it is a messy affair. I will do some more measuring and take a punt on whether to get a long or short offset spanner and report back if I found the correct one. Thanks

Whilst doing an engine oil change today I took a few pics of the gearbox dsg filter housing. It has 4cm of access above it before the battery above it. Taking the air hose and air filter box out would not help. Large Hex/allen female sump plug (above 10mm). Q is this the DSG filter? The bottom image is as viewed directly from above. There is plenty of room to get that offset spanner and long extension bar in there, saving taking out battery and its holder etc. Looks like the short tool would suffice

Great guide, thanks. Quick question. If you remove the battery, how can you connect VCDS / OBD2 port if vehicle has no power. I know a few people have opted for reading gear box temperature using a surface IR thermometers like used to read a child's temperature. Is it possible to remove the gear filter using the offset 24mm tool and easily reinsert a new paper filter element? Did you use long or short tool? From what I have read it looks like the long one on common rail engines. Short on petrol? There is a 4cm length difference so important not to waste £17 or so on wrong tool. I'm always happy to avoid dismantling the least number of parts, etc. Thoughts? Cheers

Does the filter or cap foil on the underside of the airbox? I can see it and get my hands on it etc. I have the pressurised fill tool through bottom of the DSG gear oil sump so I would not need to fill from above via filter. I read the nice guide on superb forum.

Hi all Anyone know whether a long or short offset spanner is needed to loosen the 24mm hex filter housing on a Octavia 2016 2l TDI 150bhp? From my research there is about 4cm between the two offset spanners which avoid the need to remove the airbox etc above the DSG oil filter. Thanks

Apologies Pab and thanks John

Thanks. Not too fussed about radio logos, most stations have one displayed already. Useful info. I will update with Pab's firmware/software first using my own 32gb SD card. To transfer to infotainment do I need to select the update option within the menu of Amundsen once the updated SD card is inserted? Thanks

He already provided a link a few weeks ago that I have yet to try. Will Pab's link cover all software eg phone compatibility, maps , radio logos etc. I got put off when Windows warned me of insecure site etc Here is the update SW update to:- (Removed) Yes, on Columbus update guide video, a generic 32gb SD card is shown but on Amundsen the video guide on Skoda update portal it suggests using the original Navigation SD card. Q What should I do tonight? Use Pab's weblink. Download to HDD then unzip to spare or formatted Skoda Nav SD card (which has first been copied as a backup)? In the car --> settings there is a 'update software' selectable option to further confuse. In the sticky for this forum about Amundsen mib 2 Sasha states that the software update should not be needed as not available to general public. I am updating as my infotainment is regularly crashing. Probably due to the new mobile phones connecting with the infotainment. Can't say for sure though, might be hardware. This is where Pan kindly stepped in to help. I just want to update without messing things up. Help appreciated.

Here it is, thanks.

Hi all, I am doing the first update on an Octavia 3 L&K due to excessive lag and random shutdowns of the infotainment. The map currently installed is ECE 2016. On the update portal http://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ I have found about 7 maps with various combinations of the countries of Europe. All are number ECE 1, ECE 2 with a month/year and so on. The software is a large zip file (6GB or more in some cases, 13GB). Q1 Which do I need (I'm in UK). I assume I need ECE 1 2020 Q2 I am not sure whether I have Amundsen or Columbus. I think it is Amudsen based on info on this site. I have a small display screen, no CD slot (just 2 SD slots). Q3 One further Q. Can I use any 32GB SD or do I need the one supplied by Skoda (security chipped?). If so, the Skoda website states to Format the card. Would it be wise to copy the SD card first? Q4 Are the updates for mobile devices and radio station logos separate? Thanks!

My exhaust has done nearly 90k miles and 13 years, which is pretty good for an exhaust. When the exhaust starts to blow what are the recommended options? Wino said not to buy a substandard exhaust, I agree. You don't want a noisy exhaust (or maybe some people do). I once did a full exhaust change, including catalyst rebuild when I found the lambda/O2 sensor on another car (Toyota Yaris) was welded in place. I found the new exhaust (ECP) didn't quite fit like the old one. The manifold I suspect had been changed as the dealer metal manifold to exhaust gasket was too small. Can Kwik fit stuff match OEM or is it worth paying for dealer part? Personally, I don't want a noisy exhaust for effects with a few bhp extra. Thanks

I think it is still erroring. I have reset unit using power button and reset factory settings. How likely is this error likely to return with a new headunit? Is it a common problem? Is the fault likely to be software on headunit or hardware? If software, could Skoda dealer reflash it? I read on this site someone who took the time and wrote an absolute essay on buying a preprogrammed unit to find it was not preprogrammed (from an auction site...). Sasha contributed to the thread and if the time comes I will get in touch. Would VCDS pick up any faults? At moment I have issues registering cable and now v20 installed the firmware on cable also needs updating. There is possibly software on my computer interfering with registration and updates. Ross Tech and Gendan contacted.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/413638-columbus-infotainment-system-problem/#comment-4728508 Google works better in the evening, it seems. These links are useful, but if you want the summary... 1 hold power button to switch off infotainment unit then continue to hold until unit switches on. This is a soft reboot. 2. Possibly try cleaning touchscreen with lens wipe / wet wipe tissues Worked for someone! 3. Buy a new headunit - possibly the bit in glovebox. But might as well upgrade infotainment display to Amundsen mib2 rather than 1 for £500 plus fitting recoding. I'm gonna try option 1 and 2.

I tend to use Google Maps due to live info and easy to see traffic density (coloured roads) When on hols in Cornwall and returning home to Yorkshire along M5 both Nav infotainment and Google Maps on Smartphone picked up a traffic problem, but Google maps picked it up first and 10mins ahead of the infotainment allowing me to take a detour and avoid the Glastonbury traffic queues behind the M5 closure. I got a paper map in boot (just in case electronic gadgets fail).

How? Download file from internet to usb or SD card? If so, do you have link? The symptoms of infotainment seem to be sluggishness in first few mins from engine startup. Is there a 'defragment' or clear memory cache (Is this akin to return to Factory Settings I seem to remember in infotainment menu?). Y, I will lose my presets etc Thanks Ps the off/on nature of infotainment does not coincide with bumps in road (loose wiring) . Seems totally random albeit it does occur in the earlier part of journey.

Oh no, my fears are confirmed! 😮 My dad has a new XJ before discontinued and it is fine but not seen high mileage yet. I heard a few people I know who have BMW or Mini (same company) having electrical gremlins. My car drives the same. Worrying thing is I found from VCDS is when attempting resetting service display in SRI reset it showed a log of events. I not seen this before as I have not used the service reset function of VCDS on this particular car. Amongst inspection date logs and service reminders, one event was 'thermal overload' and another was 'poor oil quality' , the latter event showed a mileage coinciding with the oil change the dealer at Hayselden did. The oil was overfilled and was causing a small leak from the oil filter large seal. Dealer said oil and filter was I changed but I had my doubts. I changed the oil (very black - even for a diesel) and filter was not in evidence of a car with 1000miles since a service. 507.00 5w 30 quantum used. This has happened before on other car at other dealer. Oil filter not bothered changing. The garage gets caught out when last oil change was in Germany using German oil filter. Cheers Any tidbits of info appreciated The main symptom at mo is the infotainment intermittently switching off then on itself. Searched, but there are no replies

4 year old 2016 O3 L@K 2l 150bhp DSG 6speed The car approaching 34k miles. When resetting the Insp on display which was not possible with VCDS on this car. I had to resort toYouTube or guide on here which worked like before. The large dash display seems sluggish to bring up the USB music stick connected for last 2 years (kids songs), SD card and SD Nav . This week the display switches itself off randomly whilst engine on then restarts/reboots showing Skoda logo as per normal. It seems to stabilise as the journey goes on. The VCDS codes are separate issues I think. I have googled them but there is limited info or knowing a location doesn't tell you the fault. Any suggestions appreciated. VCDS errors are... 1. Humidity sensor - 939534 B1281 04 (008) (Anyone know why there is 2 sets of numbers) This one comes up a lot. It might relate to a sensor at top middle of front windscreen? I thought it might detect rain so car can auto close open windows when car locked. My L@K might not have this and I tried pouring water not long after getting the car with no success. It is a grade 4 priority (low?). I had the dealer at Doncaster Hayselden replace the panoramic sunroof seals under warranty which helped somewhat with the leak. This has reoccurred. It appears fine dirt clogs up /restricts the drainage tube. The gutter tray around edge of sunroof then fills up. Particularly bad if car parked on sloped so water trays out one corner only. Remedy - pour some Flash or watery soapy cleaner regularly and wipe gutter of fine dirt with kitchen roll. 2. 28252 coolant pump 3 air in it. P25FA Intermittent not confirmed (presume this means it not happened again?). Recent error. Anyone what pump 3 does? I had a fall in coolant level in warranty and garage said no faults. Topped up and fine since. No work other than oil changes on car 3. 20259 internal control module. P0606 00 (101) processor fault. Tested since. Not confirmed. Coincided with EML coming on then extinguished on startup. Car engine partially warm at time. Google says this relates to the PCM Power train Control Module. Like a ECU computer but for engine and transmission? The repair is a reflash of software or replacement £1000? 4. Other errors relate to remote control battery CR2016 This car eats batteries. I am changing once a year. CR2032 with higher capacity should be used for keyless remote. Any help appreciated! The Fabia 1 vrs I also have is in contrast giving no problems. I guess the O3 is canbus and has more gizmos and more sensors etc

Sills - where out of sight use red oxide primer then coloured overcoat eg metallic rust proof paint. Tailgate - rub down to metal with 80 grit then 120 then wet dry 300 and get all rust out and spray with etch primer--high build primer (not essential but flattens out imperfections from sanding) --'coloured paint of your choice --clear lacquer to waterproof. Acetone (brake cleaner) excellent for cleaning grease. Use gloves. Fan heater essential or 20C plus temp and leave overnight between types of spray.

I had same R rear that seized on piston and yes you could feel heat from 30cm away. Even warmed up alloy. Luckily, outside temp was below zero at time. The car didn't pull to one side etc. just lowered mpg. I bought some test tube / pipe cleaning brushes and solvent cleaner for EGR which has definitely yielded a significant mpg improvement. Had to remove ASV each time to properly clean. 5mm allen key hex female bolts x3 Needing to clean after 6k miles 9 months seems excessive, but yielded results.

Low'er' fuel economy than normal. Used brim method, getting 5mpg less. I know trip computer overestimates true average mpg, but it reads less then it has always followed for me that true mpg is also low . Oil filter, oil and air filter done. Fuel filter done 6k ago. Previously cleaned out EGR back in October 2019. Cleaned EGR again and on same journey now trip computer reading 63mpg instead of 53mpg. Car had new EGR at 60k ish due to shaking engine on idle, slow warm up, poor mpg. Q Do I need to clean EGR out this often? Tyres - correct pressures Brakes - slide pins and pads cleaned and relubed. Despite improved mpg I noticed more brake dust on alloy after today's rain and on Right Rear caliper. Surface IR thermometer showed front discs both 27C Rear left 26 Rear right 34 I had both rear replaced one one new and RR caliper is reconditioned as they were not as cheap as they were now. I was never happy with it, always seems warmer than Q2How much of a temperature difference on brake discs both sides of axle before binding caliper suspected? Thanks