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I cover my windscreen occasionally using dust sheets to stop frost on windscreen. Looks like they were dirty and scratched the windscreen. Any suggestions on how to remove minor scuffs in driver's windscreen? They are only visible in the low winter sunlight. I was thinking bicarbonate of soda / toothpaste or T cut. CIF a bit too coarse? Car polish not coarse enough? Glass cleaner seems suited to removing grime, traffic film only. Thanks

New after market boost pipes (top and bottom) were worth the money for me. £300. By 60k miles the joints leaked. No real signs (no blackening or oil) other than lowest point at the pipe to intercooler joint. New horse clips alone won't work. Smoke on acceleration (due to lack of air reaching engine that the MAF sensor thought was getting there). Acceleration improved a lot and mpg slightly. Like a different car Have a look at Dark side in Yorkshire. They now sell a side mount intercooler similar to that fitted OEM. I got mine from SFS Luton who made the boost pipes specially, not off the shelf as the car is obsolete , little demand. The joints are jubilee clips, so no leaks at metal hard pipe to silicone pipes. Forge used to make a FMIC with custom pipes that avoided cutting up the crash bar behind the front bumper. Again obsolete car now, so no longer made. Hope this helps.

I have started a post yesterday and I have been offered this campaign 23ax update on my car. Has it definitely had a negative impact on regenerations? Anything else affected? Thanks

I telephoned the dealership. The ECU software patch is Campaign 23AX. Staff said it was to do with warm up phase emissions of catalyst as car ages, like others have indicated in replies above, thanks. I asked if any adverse effects. He said none. Apparently, the EU5 campaign 'R6' ( I think I got that right) is not related to this one that caused EGR to block etc. I read the campaign 23AX link. Some people say engine smoother, better mpg. Others state more DPF and longer regenerations after the patch. Should I have it done? I am keeping the car for years to come, longer regens would be a deal breaker. Regens are a real mpg killer BTW.

The software patch is an ECU update, reading my email again. Still waiting for dealer to get back to me. I will get an answer this am. My car is EU6 110kW Dual clutch DSG 6 speed. The article I linked to mentions vehicles upto 2019, which would cover EU6? So, does the campaign 23A firmware update for EU5 also include EU6. It seems from the answers above that both EU6 specifications relate to catalyst emissions? Should I agree to the update? Anyone had it on a EU6 engine? I don't know if I trust the dealer not to do it anyway. I originally was asked to leave car for 2.5hours when MOT needs only 1 to 1.5 hour time slot. Reading other posts I got told dealer gets £ from Skoda for doing this work.

After trying EA189 link, I tried 'Recall Actions'. It is one and the same link to the EA189 engine link. The Skoda link doesn't work, not your fault. Here is some interesting reading from https://onlymotors.com/dieselgate-vw-ea288-engine-could-be-affected/ Willis also gave the first clear indication of what work will be undertaken in the recall, which affects some 1.2 million cars in the UK. 1.2- and 2.0-litre cars will only need a software patch, while 1.6-litre cars will also need new injectors, a longer and more expensive fix. He added that the fix should make no difference to fuel economy.

Thanks Roottoot. This is a quote from campaign 23A in the link above. " What I didn't realise is that it covered the EA288 engine aswell of recent. I always thought it was purely down to the EA189 engine. The emissions scandal covers engines upto 2019 " My car has the EA288 engine... The EA189 engine was the Octavia 2 up to 2013 , a 2l PD engine and a couple other engines, also PD. Been offered a £20 MOT, then this email came today. I wouldn't have gone out my way for a cheaper MOT, but I needed some Skoda parts for the other Skoda, so it made sense. I think I'll cancel, do you think they are getting paid by Skoda to do the work (software update)? I'll let you know what comes back in way of a reply from the dealership tomorrow. BTW The Recall Skoda website states my VIN is not affected, but that only applies to the EA189 engine, not my EA288 engine. Commentators suggest symptoms of the update include longer DPF regenerations.

Hahahaha! I have asked and awaiting their reply, probably get it tomorrow, which I will pass back to this forum. How vague it will be I don't know, but as the car is booked in Friday this leaves little time to ask this community for their opinion. I wouldn't be worried had it been for the experience other road users have had from such software updates. I will read your links posted, thank you. If it comes back a engine/ECU/PCU update would you pass? Car is fine,except for infotainment resetting, locking up over several months (maybe didn't like new mobile phone). Started.diring lockdown 1 One day it cured itself. Weird? I tried a map update but it didn't seem to work.

Octavia 3 LandK MY 16 2l 150bhp diesel. Hi all, my car is having an MOT with dealer in next few days. The dealership has informed me that the car needs a software update. I have asked for more details, but in the meantime I thought I'd ask around whether this is a wise move given that VAG owners were asked to present their cars to dealership for a 'software update' following diesel gate emissions scandal. This resulted in people's cars going into limp mode, premature blocked EGR etc. Not sure if Skoda was involved or just VW? Has anyone any information on what updates they have had on their Octavia car? Any issues? Thanks

Short offset 24mm spanner works well on Octavia 3 ,100mm length. Photo shows snorkel on left. 3nm torque to tighten snorkel. 24mm dsg filter housing is 20nm Drain plug with fresh metal washer is 45nm torque.

Yep Fabia 1 VRS 1.9 of turbo Thanks for that. I will give dealer a call.

Hi, I found a few links on Briskoda about 'sticky throttle/accelerator pedal' Lifting the accelerator pedal with foot under it does lower the revs from 1000 back to 800. It is unclear how to repair? - Someone has put an 'English spring' - drilling a small hole on the pedal and attaching spring to retract the pedal (saves lifting with foot). - Replacement with second hand units or new - Apparently fit and forget. I have replaced brake pedal switch some years ago on same car. - Throttle body in engine bay (is this the anti shudder valve ASV?) near EGR - Lubricating (someone suggested silicone - I wouldn't use silicone - it is an insulator and will prevent electrical contact) pedal. Will a new pedal solve this issue and any ideas on a dealer sourced part cost? Suggestions (guide)? Thanks

I've had the Fabia since it had 44k miles and it has had 5w30 505.01 since then. I went for Shell since I used another grade in a Peugeot 180 bhp 307 which requires 5w40, the mpg economy never got over 39.9 mpg , ever, since using Shell the car managed 40.4mpg. Engine was smoother too. So, the Shell was a quality engine oil. Back to Fabia, the 'looser engine' effect when the car hits 90C on coolant from cold has always been there in the fabia and I never noticed this particularly on other cars.

Yeah, don't get me started on that! Things have improved. Kwik fit and ATS just use the ratchet gun to take off the nuts and use the torque wrench to put nuts back on, I've noticed, so practices have improved.

One reason I do as much maintenance myself , as much as possible, is that some garages cut corners. One dealer (Peugeot) in Barnsley but now a Kia dealer changed engine oil and filter, except they didn't know the last filter change had been done in Germany using Ohaus. They hadn't changed it. The sludge (petrol) on it was consistent with a 12k miles change not a 3k oil change that followed at 15k miles . On another car I suspect they hadn't used the correct oil, in the cold it felt like 10w grade not 5w. I had paid for an oil filter they supplied too! Hard to prove conclusively in court. Another garage in Leeds even offered to change engine oil using more expensive option with 507.00 oil on a DPF car, which it needed. The fact it was an extra £30 option suggests some folks were getting the wrong oil and the extra sludge and DPF ash.

Yes Wino, I have previously used5w30 Quantum Platinum Plus . I bought Shell 5w30 505.01 which is no longer available, but Quantum is a good oil. I will stick to 5w30 505.01 quantum platinum plus. Another reason for trying 5w40 505.01 was the mileage on the engine and associated wear. It is approaching 90k miles, and some people suggested out of the two 505.01 oils, the engine might benefit from 5w40 rather than 5w30

I read the 5w40 505.01 Vs 507.00 5w30 oil. It would make sense to buy just 507.00 for my 2 cars. Buying a 20l drum always works out cheaper than 4 X 5 l cartons. Wino - Is the 507.00 really a more cam / engine protective replacement for 505.01 like that link suggests? I thought 505.01 oils would have been dropped and replaced with 507.00 oil. I have seen this with GM oils for 2004 on era models being replaced with newer oil branded with the Dexos 2 oil standard, however, it is backward compatible with older models.

It was a discussion on here, but I know it is 505.01 additive that protects not the 40 grade Vs 30 grade. The Quantum oil I used in the PD is always 505.01. I have used Quantum 5w30 507.00 in my Octavia 3 which is good stuff compared to some other '507.00 rated oils' ( fewer regens, quieter engine). I will be swapping back. The car is in good shape and everything else being equal I noticed the fuel economy difference on each fuel fill after. The average fuel trip computer, although over generous on mpg, is always consistent. The lack of looseness on engine warm up was noticed straight after the oil change on the following journey and thereafter. It is subtle but noticeable. It is not a major issue and yes I don't want to generate a big debate / argument. I just thought I would share my observations. Stick with the 5w30 505.01

Thought I would share my recent experience of switching engine oil to more viscous 5w40 from 5w30. Car is Fabia VRS 130 PD using 505.01 PD oil. I have always used 5w30 engine oil, however, based on the discussions on Briskoda about minimal difference between the 30 and 40 spec oil when it reaches engine operating temperature I thought I would try 5w40 Quantum oil. The fuel economy is lower, easily by 2 mpg on a like for like journey. I have been using the new oil since XMAS. When using 5w30 when the coolant reached 90C the engine 'loosened up', having noticeably more power and seemed to have less resistance, keeping revs in gear when having a accelerator burst and letting off accelerator. Now the car seems identical when warm compared to cold running, a lot more up tight. The 5w40 was 1/3 cheaper than 5w30 and it has been suggested it would protect cam loves more effectively than 5w30, but I think I will be swapping back. What are other people's experiences?

That is useful, thanks. Looking at the engine, I didn't clearly see an EGR between the airbox / MAF sensor and DPF at rear top of engine bay. This is the DPF? Photo taken from front of car looking to rear of engine. I only assumed EGR might cause premature DPF issues given its mention as a cause on several websites, probably other manufacturers, along with faulty sensors measuring differential in exhaust pressure across DPF or other issues. Looks like this EGR is found on a range of engines including 2l 110kw tdi Out of interest, how long would I get out of the EGR?

My car is 2016 reg so avoided the emissions fix. But you are correct the earlier diesels (Octavia 2?) then went onto develop problems post emissions fix. There is a plethora of mk 1 and 2 models on YouTube where EGR is being cleaned but nothing on Octavia 3. Are the EGRs on new diesels just as likely to block up as earlier diesels, that is by 50 k miles? Images posted look like it is a throw away part and replace?

Another use for my endoscope camera...

No one's going to go against manufacturer's guidance. This image is a 7yr old Fabia pd cam belt about to be changed, 38k miles after last change. Overdue on time (by 3yrs) The belt is smooth, no cracks, fraying as yet. This can belt Q came up before. Apparently, the same 2l diesel engine is found in VW and Audi, yet VW offered 7yr and Audi 9yr on Cam belt. I heard the Bora diesels had plastic impellers that broke but if s metal impeller seizes it throws out the whole timing of the belt destroying the engine. The metal is stronger, the plastic breaks. Different manufacturer, but friend who breaks cars had a couple of timing belt fails on Peugeots, both went at 60 k plus miles and were over 10 years. Another car, a Xantia went on 70k miles. Owner had one belt kit change and it went to 140,000 miles and he forgot about the next interval. The mileage was more important as the belt had come to its threshold. Lots of factors way in, but I think you would get to 40k or another 2 years before contemplating. Are Cam belts really this fragile nowadays? Pulleys might start to squeal and give sign they giving up. 20k seems too low imo. I take a picture of my Octavia and we can all compare belts!

Sorry to hear. Dash cam is standard operating procedure nowadays I'm afraid. Could have been worse...it could have come through your windscreen. Is bumper all one piece on Octavia 3?

I posted a while ago about info about EGR cleaning on Octavia 3. There is plenty of info on YouTube about early diesels and I have changed the EGR on my Fabia and cleaned it since. No one responded, but since I have come across these images of an O3 EGR for sale. Unlike the earlier diesels it looks impossible to clean out. Look at the mesh pattern in the chrome metal, allowing air flow through, but no possibility of cleaning tools. On Peugeot models I come across metsl-plastic joins that when separated the EGR breaks and replacement is the only option. I'm admittedly a bit paranoid about keeping on top of this, if the EGR starts to gunk up and work improperly the DPF will take all the smoke that will lessen its lifespan. Here is a few images of the EGR. Anyone care to correct me on manufacturers opting for replacement rather than ability to clean? Last image I think is the anti shutter valve (small disc) Unlike the Fabia mk1 which has no electronics I think the O3 has a wiring loom to it, possibly flagging engine check light if blocked? Or is that power if it is not vacuum operated? There is a sliding scale on efficiency before blockage occurs, hence wanting to clean. Also, do new EGRs need programming so the car accepts new hardware? I'm aware that new power steering pump on Audi (2012) required OBD2 programming for ECU to accept it.