Kobayashi

On the topic of spark plugs have always asked for them to be numbered when taking out at service and to see them in my hands.

Did you keep the first sensor as a spare as I assume the original one didn't need replacing? Glad it's working sometimes it's something so simple

You can print the above for MK2 and laminate one of them I corrected it to RHD, as the one inside is printed for LHD, you made same mistake as me only mine was the the one in boot and a trip to Halfords in the dark for replacement fuses....

The Mk 3 as standard 110bhp has turbo lag I'm thinking of taking to ADE one day, can this lag be improved using the standard turbo? ADE worked wonders on my MK2 VRS (Cave)

I've replaced sensors in the past and it turns out it was corroded wiring not the sensors. Any 'exposed' wires I can see under bonnet I have used black electrical tape to protect. I've got a vented bonnet which lets water in ( not ideal for wires)

Really 4wd is next option for better traction (if it's even possible in the fabia shell) but might undo a host of other upgrades only just done. Sure I saw a post on here years ago where it was being attempted in a Skoda citigo??

The system works well as long as you know what you set it at yourself, weirdly I have had it work the other way when the tyre pressure went up (not down) one was an extremely hot day and spirited long uphill blast in the MK3. In the MK2 it was a sign of sticking caliper. Keep a separate tyre pressure monitor inside car. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07P5RG8TL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EpEvFbGMH6EZY

RARB + FARB will help reduce tyre wear, if you like blasting round fast roundabouts

I know it does with most Android head units without doing anything other than simply plugging it in. I was unsure about this so just simply hoped that it worked. My theory being might lose the graphic but would still hear the beeps as approach object

The smaller rear Lucas castings were bought out by American TRW over 20 years ago,I was an apprentice there. Emblems & logos are there forever as it too expensive to upgrade the tools with new logo. Did notice on my ATE fronts that there is a small Audi logo

The front bigger housings are ATE, the rears are Lucas, had fun & games repainting these, I kept to standard sizes disc so this was one of options for front discs, http://www.eurocarparts.com/search/10444079a

Not tried that but it will push backwards & forwards in neutral on the flat.

RHS Driver Disc / Caliper still very hot, compared to the others with minimal braking, so it must be slightly stuck on by a few microns only. When i bought a second set of caliper housings off a scrap VRS MK2 all 4 were re-done with new seals, but the pistons were the originals so have ordered new pistons from Biggredd. Brake Caliper Repair Kit (BRK205414) Brake Caliper Repair Kit (BRK203843) Brake Caliper Piston (BRP235461) Brake Caliper Piston (BRP233815) When i painted the second set maybe i shouldnt have painted the lower half (where the brake pad sits), and now i am thinking it is paint build up on the inside causing it to stick maybe shouldnt have painted it fully green on the inside?

Ok there is quiet uphil dual carriageway section near me about 3.5 miles, if I blast uphill after cleaning wheels at carwash can do it without touching brakes caliper should be same heat either side when stop, if it's still hotter then it must be stuck on slightly?

Just spoke to Ade it was a brisk drive back in a straight line, he thinks it's the sticking caliper problem for sure as well, I've got my original Red Set of housings / calipers so I'm sure they can sort it. Does XDS only affect one side in terms of heat

Didn't notice the blueing of discs, they are good discs EBCs, must be caliper then due to non use, only 2500 miles done this year due to furlough. Garage mentioned at last year's service it wouldn't budge on neutral on ramp. They cleaned and I got rid of it using Magma wheels which dissolves the brake dust, discs / pads / fluid all updated a few years ago.

Something is causing RHS Front Driver wheel to get very hot, the caliper was also very hot. I only noticed because the tyre pressure warning light came on motorway. Tyres were all good at '30' (didnt need any air) so the heat was causing the tyre to go 'above' not below on pressure. Is it a possibilty the wheel bearing might be on its way out at 51K Miles? The car will push by hand in Neutral so dont think the caliper is sticking (though this has been a problem in past)

Assuming it's VRS there was an issue with DSG synthetic oil Vs mineral oil, A recall was done not everyone will have had it done though

The 2L as standard looks way down on numbers,im sure it could be tuned better : As a performance-focused plug-in hybrid, the Octavia vRS iV has been created to deliver a car that seamlessly blends sportiness and improved fuel economy, with a powerful engine and the ability to drive on electric power alone. The claimed performance figures are impressive. A 0-62mph time of 7.3 seconds is 0.3 seconds quicker than the standard non-vRS plug-in hybrid Octavia iV. By way of comparison, the 148hp 2.0-litre diesel and 150hp 1.5-litre petrol, which are likely to be popular with many buyers, deliver times of 8.8 seconds and 8.2 seconds respectively. Fuel consumption figures are yet to be revealed, but the predicted emissions figure of 30g/km should be sufficient for the Octavia vRS iV to meet tough new European regulations which will be introduced at the start of 2021.

BHP and Torque is not important to Skoda and they have to use new 'VW tech' & efficient hybrid engines, though you have to add the BHP of each system, so although 245bhp 2020 Octavia, Vs (lighter twincharger 177 -220bhp (if tuned) Skoda has revealed the new Octavia vRS, now available as an iV hybrid with 245hp. New Skoda Octavia vRS revealed Now comes as a hybrid 1.4-litre 150hp petrol engine 116hp electric motor Total output of 245hp 37-mile electric range 0-60mph in less than 7.3 seconds 140mph top speed 6-speed DSG automatic gearbox On sale later in 2020

Any reason why not using a bigger air intake using cold feed other than battery being in way ( which could be moved) or maybe turned sideways

The overflow screenwash pipe might not be connected properly, I take it you are filling right to the top otherwise you wouldn't notice