brettikivi

interested to hear what you're replacing it with. looks like I will be driving a Kodiaq soon not a Superb, and I have a decent system for that, but not 3-way, not with a centre, and with a big ol' 10" sub. @KoenG

Yesterday: spent several hours in it trekking to the east to view a car that ... did not live up to my expectations, at least not on the outside. Next! Today: off through the snow down south to look at a Kodiaq. I would like this whole thing off my plate as I have a busy spring / summer ahead and if it's not going to work out, I'd like to know that sooner rather than later... Superbs are thin on the ground, super thin on the ground. 3 in the correct price / mileage class in the entire country and I've driven 2 of them and rejected them; the third is elsewhere but I think I've settled on the Kodiaq. Decent equipment - towbar, electric seats, leather, heated rear outside seats - but not too much. No BLIS, but ACC; no Dynamic LEDs but high beam assist, nav and traffic sign recognition and a reversing camera. At least speed limits are coming back to summer ones in part, that will turn my commute from 4h45 including coffee to 4h dead including coffee. It was super fun to slide across a mostly-empty car park this morning with ESC Sport. Wasn't long but it was satisfying. ooo-er!

the car should be told about the new battery to ensure it charges it correctly, in terms of voltage. Assuming you replaced like with like (an AGM with an AGM) then the issue isn't that serious but I would still get it done to ensure maximum battery life.

turn the wheel from centered to lock right, then all the way to the left, then to the center again before driving anywhere. See if that helps. (i had exactly this after we removed the amp etc from my car on Tuesday. Turns out the clock spring position got lost because of the temporary loss of power. going from lock to lock solved it without VCDS and in about 1 minute). . Bret

well, i've preliminarily agreed a deal to swap it for another one. With far fewer miles and better kit. Tuesday to get the hifi out and then hopefully Wed / Thu we can complete the deal...then the new one goes for cambelt and probably an oil change and a look-over.

I used the fronts from directly behind the glove box. Be aware the numbering of the connectors doesn't make sense (doesn't go FR+ FR- FL+FL-, it's weird). Check the electrical diagrams (available from ErWin) for the colours you need. Going to have to do this again in a few weeks, so... and that car has Canton. But I've heard it and I'm not impressed, and I have the gear, so...

Interesting. I got told DSG is 60k kms, fixed interval, no time limits. Reading some more, that's for DQ250s. DQ381s have 7 speed and 80000kms. And yes, 2018 - the paperwork I can find for the 2018 MY Superbs here says 6 speed DSG for the 19 0 TDI 4x4 I'm looking at. Haldex I would now personally do every other year, but I hammer mine (snow has been lying since November and more is due) so I wasn't surprised when someone commented how dirty the filter was. One of the cars I'm currently looking hat has under 60k kms but is 6 yrs old, so I was talking about the maintenance schedule with a garage I trust, not a Skoda dealer.

had something similar to this on a test drive the other week. I suspected flywheel, possibly one of the clutches or input shaft bearings. Why? because in that context the car shut up in N, but was whiny in D or R when moving. So if no load was on the gearbox, no whine. But as soon as load was put on (even at tickover), there was whine. There is an SSP for the box available which shows the power movement through the box, though this may only be for the DQ381. Has the oil been changed at the correct interval and did you already try reading codes?

.. and I've had mine for 2.5 years, just clicked over 71000 kms in that time. Issues / replacements: - front disks and pads last summer - lower ball joint at the same time - one wheel bearing (total around 800€) - Battery was replaced 1.5 months ago (-33C really did a number on the car..) (300€) - Adblue system pipes replaced two months ago (-33C seems to have frozen the adblue, too... ) (1200€) just serviced at €650 including the Haldex, Engine oil + filter, and the battery. Oil services on 1 year schedule, haldex just done. The summer tyres are still good for one season, the winters are fine. Both are 215/55R17. Both were new at the time I bought the car / directly afterwards. Nothing serious obvious on the horizon apart from the cambelt change. I've also swapped all the interior bulbs to w5w philips LEDs and stuck a Lazer 18 Elite on the front under the numberplate. That lights the place up nicely. Oh, and it has a decent stereo in there, too. I commute to Helsinki regularly; that's 400km in one direction. I do both in one day and have no issues. The car is a great long distance cruiser, quiet. It has enormous grip and stability - we have lots of snow and it will happily plough through quite a lot of the stuff at reasonable speeds; Haldex really pushes the power to where it's needed pretty much imperceptibly if it's working correctly. I really enjoy the car. I would like better ambient lighting - for 6 months of the year, 90% of my commute is darkness - and the xenon lights are lacking, especially high beam. But that's fixed with the additional light. The stereo was meh, but I've also fixed that. The only reason I'm changing is I want something with lower mileage. don't really need better kit, the majority is there and it works very well.

I get 6l/100 from my 4x4 150. I'd expect similar numbers from a 190. BUT: i drive way longer distances than you with minimal town work. If I drive in town, I can see 8. I would like to switch to a 2.0TSI petrol (the 272PS version), but I can't find one and so it will probably be another diesel. realistically, I don't think the 220PS will drink much less than the 272. The same for the 150vs190TDI. My personal expectation with the 2.0TSI would be 7.5l/100 vs 6/100 for the TDIs. That's partly based on a bunch of kms with a rental A6 using the same engine. At 50-60mph on the motorway, I saw a 6 in front of the comma. On the Autobahn or in town, not so much. Translating that back into the real world: at 20000kms/ yr vs 30000kms/yr, that's.. 7.5x200 --> 1500l for the petrol, 1200l for the diesel. If diesel fuel is 15% more expensive than petrol, the petrol makes economic sense... but the difference is only 6% (this table as source: https://www.fleetnews.co.uk/costs/fuel-prices/) so 155 * 6 *200 --> 1860 146*7,5*300 --> 2190 In other words, that's a £25 per month difference at 20k kms or 12 thousand miles. For 30k kms / 20k miles: 155 * 6 * 300 --> 2790 146 * 7.5 * 300 --> 3285 slightly larger difference, but still only 40 per month. Buy on condition and service history is my take on this. remember the 4x4 will need haldex oil changes, making it slightly more expensive to run. Oh, and I'd definitely try them; I like both engines. The TDI in my car is louder than the one in the car I test drove Wednesday; the TSIs I've driven (in different cars and tunes) are quieter and slightly more refined, but not much. The 2.0TDI in the A6 is great but the gearing is so long it's nuts. This is something else I would pay attention to: how the gearing works with the roads you're going to be driving. If you've lots of slow and windy stuff, make sure the car works for you in terms of gearchanges and the gear it picks on those roads. Was also strange testing a couple of V90s the other week - the difference in the two cars, even though they were very close in mileage, was astounding.

so the car I've test driven is now veto'd by the wife. Fair enough, no-one seems to be wise as to potential cost, and though there's a warranty for 2 years on it, the costs could exceed the 12k limit they place. So that's a no. Another one found closer to home, but it's pre-FL, and with slightly fewer toys (but nothing meaningful is missing); it's lower mileage but hasn't had the cambelt done yet. <sigh>. Will be going to take a look at that next week, as they're not open over the weekend and it's at - to put it politely - the arse end of nowhere (i.e. far away from everything else), It's a 2 hour drive from here, and we're 400km north of Helsinki....weird driving here again after the style difference between BeNeLux and Germany over teh last couple of days. Failed to start my own car this morning in the shopping centre, though - i forgot to put my foot on the clutch, just on the brake... been driving too many automatics recently...

definitely. Get the revs to 3k and leave them there while the speed increaases is plain strange... and a "7 speed" box on a 1.2 swift is very strange indeed Was a lot less buzzy on the motorway than the manual one, would actually maybe have kept this one.

did a test drive today of a 4x4 TDI 190 L&K estate, 2020. only issue i see is that the DSG seems to "hum". it's a quiet one but noticeable. If I put the transmission in N, it goes away, and stays away until I put it into D and then start to move - then it starts again. It's like a kid trying to be annoying, a "mmmmmm" in a middle range. Does not change perceptibly with engine revs. Seems not to get louder with speed, either. Any thoughts appreciated... the car would be covered with a warranty, but it would be nice to understand what I might be getting myself into here. DSG oil hasn't been changed to my knowledge. Car is 4 yrs old, 82k km.

@Bap33 yes, the extra power is noticeable like the DSG, too, but it is making a noise. Hums at tickover. Put into neutral - noise goes. Put into D, no noise, but start moving and it starts again. Faint "hum" like a kid trying to be annoying. Doesn't seem to get louder with speed. Unclear to me at the moment if the DSG oil was changed at 60k kms (but Haldex oil was). Car is just 4 yrs old. 0C ambient, car was relatively cold, but same after a good 10mins of driving (so fluids reasonably warm but not up to full operating temp). Kit on the car is great, seems someone ticked pretty much every box and then added the DEFA battery charger which is awesome. But the noise bothers me...

wheelspin is easy on ice I did get to run the 150 on the track this year.,.... sideways with all wheels spinning and waiting for enough grip was very entertaining and useful (i know far better know to keep the throttle pinned to get the slide to stick, or inertia is taking over). I also actually need to find some slippery stuff to make sure teh Haldex is working properly and that the transfer is smooth. Don't want to ahve to do a DSG and a Haldex oil change already at purchase - we will see... also very revealing was the difference was between the s-cross and the superb in terms of ability to drift and keep the slide going, how easy to provoke and how it really feels like the Superb has a far a** on the track with the weight penduluming. Going to get to keep the car through Saturday, so i will take it to the airport. Need to test all the toys, the 1h of motorway should give me ample time to do that.

i have a test drive tomorrow of an L&K 190 4x4. Let's see if this works... the V90s got kicked out because of the weird hybrid that did a bad job of controlling wheelspin, looking forward to trying the DSG 4x4. And having spent the weekend in a CVT swift, I'm also looking forward to a decent ride with DCC....

the car has full LED matrix lights. This is not high beam assist, it's high beam assist on steroids: It uses turned off LEDs to mute the light where none should be (for example, oncoming traffic). No AFS available, though I don't know why you'd want it, as the DFA will push the light to where it's needed (or more to the point, block it where it shouldn't be). only pre facelift cars have AFS. DFA is not AFS. Why do you want AFS specfically? I'd be asking to do an overnight test drive to confirm the lights do what you need them to do. If you're in the woods and need more light to the sides, I'd be looking at external lights anyway.

torque (play store) +cheap BT dongle should allow you to do most things, that's how I read my errors... . Bret

This. Where should my tow hook be?

no, the +15mm higher version, might be considered to be PPD here? Schlechtwegepaket in German, have to dig my car info PDF out to be clear on what PR codes are installed.

dropped another set of €€€ on oil service, new battery (+ coding) and haldex oil (and sieve) change. The difference is astounding. It's very icy up here, I can provoke slides on essentially every corner - and now the power transfer is imperceptible. I didn't realise how obvious it was before. I will be getting this done more frequently in the future than every three years, that's for sure. Oh. and now a rear shock is leaking. So, bearing in mind I have the "rough road package" (+15mm), what can I fit? B12 seems reasonable, but the B6 dampers are relatively cheap (no DCC). €700 seems OK for dampers. H&R ARBs front and rear would be good, too... hmm...

looks like i will not be replacing the superb with a petrol - that deal is not going through in the way i intended. Hmph.

one thing that could be done is a standard recording of road noise at, say, 80km/h. Invert and add to the input ahead of amplification. That's not just engine noise. Dirac-live seems like it would be capable of this. Tempted to test convolving a phase-inverted standard 80km/h recording with a FLAC file and see what happens. But that's a bit silly at some levels. ANC should be possible in real time for the car as well, I'm wondering why it hasn't been done? If Dirac live can do it, why isn't it in the car?

yep, it gets cold up here.. the concept of "noise cancellation", even "active noise cancellation" does bring a couple of interesting questions. First is the big one: what could that actually mean? So, thinking about it, an "active noise cancellation" could just mean that the base noise of the car - has been recorded, inverted, and used with the speed compensation (for example) to change the noise profile that's being reproduced, to actively cancel - but without using a mic array to analyze in real time, just using a couple of standard profiles to improve NVH. Truly active NC would be with a mic in the car (for example the mobile phone one) and actively inverting this and inserting it into the signal chain, rather than having this defined one time. Anyways, as said, my switch is now a way off and might not happen - I will have to look into some other stuff anyway. that sub doesn't do much, does it?

yes, Finland; summer house hit -37C last week. Friday on the way home it was -17 in Lahti and -28 in Jyväskylä, switching +-5 degrees super fast. -33C on Saturday when I tried to start the car, here in town. Lots of batteries have given up the ghost, it seems. Mine seems to be ok again after some charging and use. Anyways, looks like things are on ice with the car change: the DEF problem is a hole in a pipe and 2 pipes need replacing (front and rear). €300+ each and 5 hours of labour. Yay! But no-one has the parts so I won't get the car back for a while... and then I won't be here so it's going to be a few weeks.