MChris

I have a Mk111 with DSG registered late 2015. It has done over 170,000 miles with no real issues. I replaced one glow plug recently and the (rear I think) shock absorbers were replaced in 2018. I also had the front n/s wheel bearing replaced last year. Of course the cam belt, (inc the water pump) and DSG have been serviced early at every assigned interval and I have carried out all the other services (early of course!). Best car I have ever owned.

My Superb is a 15 plate Mk3 so might be different to yours. I have to plug my Android in to get Waze or Google maps to work. If I fire up the Skoda Sat Nav it bins the Android Sat Nav (Waze etc). I believe that you can only have one Sat Nav working at a time. Either the cars Sat Nav or the Android Auto.

I went into my Skoda Dealer a week or so ago and asked the same question. I have a 2016 model Mk3 Superb, diesel, 2 litre DSG. The guy said that only that morning they had received notification from Skoda saying that they have changed the intervals on timing belt replacements to 140,000 miles. I can't recall the time intervals as I do a high mileage and the miles will come around before the date. I last had them change my cambelt & water pump at 110,000 miles and will do again when I reach around 220,000 miles.

Thanks both for your very helpful posts. Yesterday I jacked up the offending corner and grasped the wheel each side and top and bottom. I could not detect any play whatsoever.. So maybe the wheel bearing is OK? For certain, it would not be a MOT failure. I also gave the drive shaft a good shake and prod but could not detect any play here either. Maybe the best answer is to turn the music up a bit louder so I can't hear it!!

My car is a 2016 model Superb, 2.0 litre, 190 BHP. 160K miles. I have noticed recently when cornering to the right at all speeds, there is a light rumbling sound from the left front wheel. I am fairly convinced that it is the wheel bearing beginning to fail. (Might be the CV join?). Is this a DIY job? I have searched this site but cannot find any advice about doing it myself. I have recently had to change the front tyres and the noise remains. Any advice would be gratefully received. TIA.

2015 160K miles

MarkyG82, By "ahead of the prescribed periods" I mean that I change the engine oil + filter around every 9,000 miles and the get the DSG oil + filter changed around 38,000 miles. Same with brake pads. I don't wait until they are wafer thin. Tyres, I tend to change them when they are at about 3 mm tread depth. I believe in preventative maintenance. At the first signs of the battery getting towards the end of its life I change it. Mind you, I've only changed it once. I've been told that I am throwing money away but I always err on the safe side.

My 2015 Mk 2.00 ltr DSG diesel has 154K miles and going strong. I service it all myself apart from the DSG and always always ahead of the prescribed periods. Very reliable, so far!

I spoke to a guy in my garage who used to be a Skoda tech. He knew the front crash sensors were NOT behind the bumper but between the radiators and the grille. Access via the plastic bits on the top. Once the few bolts and plastic fasteners were removed he used a little brute force and looked through the gap. Found the sensors and found the wire leading from the sensor had been bitten through in two places. He cut the broken wire out and soldered a new length in. Reconnected the battery, plugged in his diagnostic gadget and cleared the codes and the error message never came back. Once reassembled I took the car for a short test drive to clear the myriad of other errors arising from the disconnected battery. Everything is now working perfectly. A 45 minute exercise. I gave the guy a reasonable tip for his efforts.

I have been greeted with an amber warning light and upon starting up I have the above error displayed. I have scanned my system with my OBDEleven and that resulted with the following code: B101A15 Crash sensor for front airbag, drivers side. open circuit/ short circuit to B+. I have tried searching this forum and YouTube but for the life of me I do not know where to start looking. I have been plagued recently with a rat invasion in my garage.. They have chewed through the washer fluid tubes in my wife's Mondeo and there is evidence of droppings in my engine bay. So my guess is that they have chewed through a wire somewhere. Of course, once I have found the damage I shall disconnect the battery before attempting a repair. Can any of you kind people give my some guidance as to where to look. I guess the crash sensors for the front are somewhere behind the front bumper but is that where I should be looking. In anticipation of your advice, thank you.

Thank you to all that have passed on their wisdom. This Forum is truly a wonderful site. The problem has gone away (for now at least!). I am inclined to think it was regen related inasmuch despite doing a few 100 mile journeys the car was trying to regen on smaller trips. Anyway, I ignored the problem and discovered that although it dropped into 5th unexpectedly, I found that if I let it stay there for a while it would drop into 6th eventually. It now behaves as it should, running up all the gears and settling into 6th. Here's hoping that the GB continues it's good behaviour.

How do I check the soot levels checked? Would a decent garage plug in tester do it? Or even the OBDEleven?

Vroom, am I right to assume that this is a paid for service?

Thanks Danoid. I initially thought the same but no other regeneration symptoms such as fan running on after switch off or the "funny" smell. Also it happens too often.

Superb Mk111, late 2015, diesel, 150,000 miles. DSG oil changed every 40K. 6 gears. Problem: when driving at around 60 +mph in E or N mode the gearbox stays in 5th gear. When I put it manually into 6th it happily stays there. Push the gearstick back to auto and it reverts to 5th gear. I am not in S mode. It all works correctly when cold but after about 10 minutes acts as above. Car scanned with my OBDEleven and "no trouble codes found". 02 Transmission System description: DQ250-6F MQB Software number: 0D9300041B Software version: 4803 Hardware number: 02E927770AQ Hardware version: H53 Serial number: TFK01506010660 ODX name: EV_TCMDQ250021 ODX version: 001001 Long coding: 0014 Trouble codes: No trouble codes found Could this be a an indication that the gearbox needs a software or hardware update? If so, is this something that only a Skoda dealer can do? Thank you in advance for any help and assistance that you can give. Note, I have spent two evenings searching previous threads.

So if Pagid and now Brembo are considered not so good, what pads/discs are recommended?

I found two methods that helped my DAB reception. 1. You need to clip a ferrite core over the cable a couple of inches before the actual camera. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07YJZ4S44/ref=pe_27063361_487055811_TE_dp_1 this link is where I got mine. Be aware there are two different sizes available on the tinternet but they are cheap anyway. 2. I bought a more expensive USB plug adapter. The cheaper one was obviously causing interference. Now my DAB signal is massively better. Not perfect but much better. The problem comes when you travel any distance and the signal can drop out on some stations. I hope that this helps.

I am not ignoring this request to share how I did it. It's just that I cannot repeat the process sat here on my desktop with my mobile adjacent. Maybe I need to "connect" to my car. I recall a few things. I had to find Battery adaptation, live data and then I had to ensure that I updated the new battery's power rating i.e. 70Ah (it was previously 68Ah), change the serial number (it didn't have to be accurate, just change the existing one by one digit, (it was 1111111111. I changed it to 1111111112.) Then before I could "write" the data the OBD Eleven made me pay and upgrade to the Pro version. I think it was £29.99. There was no way that I could confirm that my process did anything but having researched all this and also spoke to a good garage owner who was a Bosch Service Centre expert he confirmed that the values I updated were essential. Doing it correctly will prolong the battery's life because the Battery Management System will better manage the battery, ensuring it gets the correct charge from the alternator. If I can, I will "connect" the device to the car and try and repeat the process and update on here.

Cancel this request. I have sussed out the method and now my battery management system is correctly updated.

I wish to change the AGM battery on my Superb Mk111 MY16. I have bought a Bosch S5A08 AGM battery. I gather that the Battery Management System requires to be re-coded. I have an OBD Eleven. Is there anyone out there that can give me a step by step guide as to re-coding this battery? And what steps are essential and what are not. (Battery serial number?) Thank you in advance.

My Superb Mk 111 MY16 is a wonderful car but the DAB reception has been pretty awful since my acquisition 6 years ago. I have a dashcam which has been hard wired to the fusebox. This last week I have cracked the problem. My original thought was that the dash cam USB feed in wire needed a ferrite core clip-on filter. I fitted one and there was a marginal improvement. Then I had a simple inspirational moment. In the rear centre console I had a USB adapter in the cigarette lighter socket. It was a double one. On a recent journey I simply pulled it out and DAB magically worked perfectly! I have since bought a much more expensive adapter. A single USB one. The make is Scosche. I bought it from Halfords. Using that adapter my DAB reception remains good. So the fault was a cheapo adapter.

Arthur. Did you resolve this issue? Mine has just broken on my Mk 3 Superb.

My car is a 2015 later model, 180 DSG Diesel. My filler cap stuck. Neither I or the attending AA man could find any manual emergency way in. He ended up gently (?) forcing it open. He first slid the painted cover off. It slides forwards. He then just forced it where the actuator connects. Afterwards I squirted loads of WD40 in the actuator and it functioned well for a month or two although it never actually locked again. That wasn't a problem. Then it stuck locked again. I bought a new actuator from TPS and removed the rubber bit that surrounds the fuel filler pipe. That was easy. Fitting the new actuator was easy too. All working well now.

Berisford, Do you have a link or other info about these locating pins please? Are they M14?

It gets worse! I took the plunge and bought a new washer bottle. Took the wheel off and removed enough of the wheel arch liner to give me access to remove the bottle. What a sod to remove!! Just 3 nuts but one was virtually impossible to see let alone unscrew. But with patience and extensions to my socket I managed it. The bottle separated from the funnel and came out. Trying to get the funnel out from the top was testing my patience but out it came. Fitting the new bottle went quite well (with blue tac on the nut that was difficult to see). Trying to get the new funnel in via the top was difficult. I used very hot water to make it more malleable. I also took off the square thing (power output?) attached to the headlight to give me more room. Eventually got it in and attached to the bottle. Before refitting the liner I checked the bottle. Filled it up and guess what? IT STILL LEAKED! Closer examination revealed that the leak was from the washer pump and not the bl**dy bottle. I dashed out and bought a new pump. It took just under 2 minutes to fit and the leak was gone. So I didn't need a new bottle after all. Grrrr. Wheel arch liner and wheel back on and all is well. BTW, is it me or is the 19" wheel somewhat heavy?? It is a sod to lift up and line up to secure it. My tip to assist that is to lower the jack to make it not too far to lift and to remove the plastic centre thing from the wheel and lift the wheel onto the hub.