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There should be zero perceptible change, unsure if it'd be physically related 👍 - unless you buy a different profile (i.e., instead of 35, you get 45 or some other odd sizing).

It is 7.5J, but @RoddersUK 235/35 tyres fit with absolutely zero issues and do provide better (even if just 3mm) sidewall protection from pesky hard things - albeit my Xtremes are already ruined due to standard 'whiteworm', gravel rash, and concrete parking space delineations 🙄

Hi @gm73 - I had this issue a few years ago with my VRS, which threw a 'Start/Stop Error' code on the maxidot screen - and went into limp mode. I took it to a VAG specialist down my road who plugged in a laptop, ran VCDS, and manually opened and closed the actuator, which they thought might have got stuck due to heat. It didn't necessitate a new turbo or actuator 😀 In the (hopefully unlikely) event that the actuator is broken or faulty, I believe that only that needs to be replaced - rather than the whole turbo. It is tricky to get to, but not an engine-out job at all.

Yeah - I actually went outside to check fluids yesterday and had a look myself, and realised it would be a tough job to do through the engine bay. My memory was playing tricks re: doing it with my old Mk6 Fiesta ZS, apologies - forgot how 'full' the Octavia's is. It may well be a 'specialist tool' job, using tweezers or something to put the bolt behind your honeycomb grill, then affixing carefully with thin spanners / similar. Presumably, you're looking at ones like this?

The stock one is plasti-welded to the OEM grill, so I believe the typical practice for fitting the aftermarket nut + bolt ones is to open the bonnet and try to attach it using both hands in and outside of the engine bay. Might be tricky if you've got bigger hands, but could always try using a magnetic screwdriver or pick-up tool to marry up the bolt to the badge...? Otherwise, taking the bumper off would be a pretty disproportionate task in terms of the effort required compared to fitting the badge - as I'm sure you've worked out already 😉

As a quick update, I bought from Skoda-Parts above and received the item in a week. Likely overpriced, but it's settled that 'itch' I had when I opened the engine bay 😉 Many thanks again, @bigade1 👍

Hi@mjfend26 - not the wrong place, don't worry, but not sure many will know the answer either. I too have a stock diffuser kicking about in the under stairs cupboard, primarily because I didn't see much demand for them in the second-hand market. Looking on here: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5e5807521-rear-bumper-spoiler-skoda-23483.html - looks like it's going for EUR 55.00, but second hand - would presume like ~£30 + P&P?

Legend, thanks @bigade1 👌 I had no idea what the part number was, so that helps considerably! I will start investigating this weekend and let you know how I get on - cheers!

I've not been back to a dealer since I bought the car in 2017, nor contacted any of them online either (as in my experience, very few of them have any interest in the supply of non-functional cosmetic-only parts 😕). That is a good idea re: contacting breakers on eBay 👍 but I was rather hoping for an easier road like "buying from X online" if I'm honest. I will investigate that route in the meantime though, thanks.

Right, makes sense. I know the bonnet badges are available in 80-90mm diameters, but to fit 'flush' within the recess I'd prefer it to be the 70mm OEM version (if one can get them) - if not, likely will go down the route you did.

TL;DR - Query: Does anyone know where to source a Skoda version of the engine cover badge - do they even exist, or are they just rarer than hen's teeth? Context: Back in the early Covid days of 2020, I had the somewhat misguided idea to paint the boring stock MQB EA88 plastic engine cover as a 'project'. Having had a good experience painting up the the Rieger rear diffuser in matte black (still going strong 4 years later 💪) and buying various plastic & heat friendly paints - whichever was available during the stock shortages - I set to work in early 2021. My final efforts were slightly better than 'amateurish' after several months, with final tidying up completed in late '21. Since then, the clear coat I used has perished - likely due to heat, and looks pretty shoddy - making me cringe every time I lift the bonnet or need to drop it into my local garage 😅 To erase my shame, I've now decided to purchase a new VW Golf R spec MQB engine cover (similar to this), but cannot for the life of me find an original (black plastic) or even aftermarket Skoda replacement of the ~70mm emblem for the engine cover! I can find new Cupra ('carbon-style') refit badges, but nothing with the Skoda logo or even something akin to it or cooler (e.g., Racingline / Revo etc.). I've Googled for so long on the 'throne' that my legs went numb 🆘 - typically it just comes up with the ubiquitous video of the Skoda badge being removed to find the VW logo underneath 🙄 - now no longer a surprise... I recognise that in the wider scheme of things, it's a niche request and possibly one many won't care about - but it's a real niggle that I'm keen to get a definitive answer on! Thanks in advance!

@danpollard Agreed with Ecomatt, here. If others have had the same experience as myself, when having the OEM exhaust removed, the garage had to basically cut it up to take it off effectively. So any OEM VRS exhaust would likely be in pieces requiring welding to fit back together. You might as well look to get a quality aftermarket one, many of them are not droney 👍

No need to apologise - you are 100% correct in all of those aspects! 😉 *Looks at last tyre bill as tears fall down his face...* 😅

😅 I don't think any of the Mk3 Octavia trim levels between 2014-2018 could be accused of having a 'luxurious ride', given the standard wallowy suspension springs, dampers, bushes, ARBs, and generally lesser quality parts than its higher marque brethren (VW / Audi etc). If you get the VRS, the spring rates and dampers are naturally stiffer - so you are natively 'compromising' (some might say 'improving') the ride quality / 'luxuriousness' in favour of improved handling over the standard car. But I agree, if you are more likely to notice the Noise / Vibration / Harshness (NVH) of larger diameter wheels or have a bit of a 'princess-and-the-pea' rear 😜, then upgrading to "19s alone may not be for everyone. And as @Stoofarightly points out, considerations need to be made like the fact that tyres are typically more expensive (especially if you opt for 235s rather than the standard 225s. Which you should, if you like to keep your alloys further more protected from kerbs).

Not great photo contrast here, but gives you an idea of size / colour. FYI, I have the Monte Carlo centre caps fitted.

@J.R.I genuinely appreciate your clarification into "edge-case" (I looked it up the CED to check if I'd used it correctly 😅). I thought I had used it correctly, in that I believed that clutch slippage was occurring (foot off pedal) when accelerating heavily in a less-than-optimal higher gear (and causes the Maxidot gear indicator to flip out showing '2-3-4' as if it's not sure what has been selected...). I've only ever experienced it on motorway conditions in higher gear pulls, than - say - fast getaways moving through the gears. However, your reference to this caught my attention: I did not know this was a thing...!? 👍 So, effectively this is a peak torque limiter applied as part of OEM engine management protection? Could this be the more likely cause of the characteristics I've experienced, that I've incorrectly identified as 'clutch slip'? If so, that puts a great weight off my mind (and wallet!)...

Broadly, most of the mainstream remaps are the same. They massively improve the linearity of the torque curve and power delivery, and just generally tune it so much better than from OEM - I doubt you'll be disappointed. So long as you're happy with the research & recommendations with your tuner of choice, should be good. The 'mainstream' remaps I'm referring to are vendors like APR, Revo, Racingline etc. For transparency, the only time my stock clutch slips is basically trying to accelerate hard in an inappropriate gear (i.e., doing 50-60mph in 5th), rather than dropping down to 4th or whatever - depending on the situation of course. It's now become an edge-case as I've changed my driving behaviour to ensure I don't slip it too much or too often. But as and when it does start to go more - maybe 70k+ miles, I'll be looking to get an uprated clutch fitted as part-and-parcel of any replacement.

As one of the many with a remapped vehicle (Stage 2 via Shark (now Racingline OEM+) - and highly highly recommended), I have managed to retain my stock clutch without significant issue over the last 3 years and now at 50k miles. As Crash says above, there's no reason a stock clutch can't take Stage 1 - just expect to apply some more mechanical sympathy to everyday driving.

@Beaumont1988 - welcome! I have a resonated Scorpion system (turbo-back), and love it. Part of the reason for that is also the excellence of Scorpion's sales / aftermarket comms. I also don't know the answer myself, but do reach out to them and they'll be able to provide advice and information to your heart's content 👍

Really nice guide 👍 Thanks for taking the time to publish it. I wish this had been about when I switched mine over to a Forge 'Big Knob' (... 😳) a few years' back. I too found most of the YT / FB / other videos and blogs around this to provide a bit of misinformation about how 'easy' this was to do. It's not easy to do without scratching some of the piano black surrounds or even splitting lovely brittle plastic parts... but the one above looks spot on. What Momo shifter model is that? I'm 99% sure that wasn't around in the UK 2 years ago... pretty jel 😉 - but hope you enjoy it; it's amazing what difference it makes with a slightly lower action & way nicer feel!

1 - Engine 'flutter' noise - Mine has done this, and usually when cold (and/or if idling slightly higher). I'm led to believe it can be auxiliary services starting up / using power from the engine (e.g., air con or heating), which dips slightly to accommodate the additional load and then re-balances the revs. So theoretically, totally normal 👍 2 - Fuel filler winding / whirring - The fuel cap has a locking mechanism inside which prevents opening when the car is locked. As with other areas of the car that can avoid getting planned preventative maintenance, the mechanism can lose its smoothness without lubricant. 3 - Pressure release - as the others have stated, this is also normal.

You and I have a fairly similar setup (minus the new clutch, which I am still reeling from your experience - but glad it is now fixed and working properly. Plus all the advice you gave others in terms of getting it done!) My question would be does your driving style & usage really merit +£900? Even under spirited use, mine never has got super hot (including in random silly summer temps) - plus driving in the UK with potholes, speed cameras, (limited) police, leaves limited chance to get up to high (engine) speed at a consistently high level to reach higher temps... Unless you're looking into doing more track days? Personally, I'd spend the £900 on stuff that's going to be more benefit day-to-day (tyres, servicing, 'rainy day fund' etc.) because I'm boring. But if I were going full stage 2, 100% I'd get additional cooling components.

+1 to these. Ben initially did my Shark Remap remotely via AW Tuning in Sidcup back in 2018, before moving to Racingline. I had to take the car there to get an intermittent fault light sorted out (teething issue with the particular ECU coding I had), and both him & the wider RL team were brilliant at aftercare 👍 Car has been flawless since then, 328bhp and beautiful torque curve 😀

If it's metallic-looking, it should be Monte Carlo Black Magic (Pearl) - Paint code 9910, seen on previous post. This is also based on the fact that most of the Pre-FL and FL VRS aftermarket parts on places like Super Skoda / Kopacek have all matched the OEM Black Pack trim with similar items (e.g., black badges etc) using the same paint colour name and metallic flecks.

@nta16 @AGFalco Many thanks both - especially for that add-on fitting, never seen one of those before! 👍 and now annoyed I didn't think of that in the first place 😅 I might try that before considering another air compressor, but will probably pair it with a decent standalone digital (or hopefully mechanical) tyre pressure gauge to avoid any accuracy loss in extending the hose.