OctaviaVRS2

No. They don’t know and don’t have a meter to test it. I wouldn’t want to try this job myself.

Does anyone here happen to know the actual VLT % of the Octavia mk2 VRS glass. Mine is slightly green tinted. I'd like to add a tint but without a tint meter, I cannot judge how much I can add, to keep above the 75% minimum for the screen.

My 2011 Octavia mk2 dash is driving me mad with squeeks and creaks. Has anyone else suffered this and what solutions did you use to stop it? On the side with the glovebox, I have to drive with the glovebox open. On my side something near where the dash touches the windscreen or whatever structure or surround is there is squeeking and creaking and I can't imagine how I will get to it to find it or stop it. If I press on my dash really hard I can stop the creaks. Does that mean my dash has come loose? Thanks guys for any feedback Rich

Here's a head scratcher for all you amazing members here.... From the top. 2012 Octavia Mk2 FL TDI Start up, select D and start to drive. Notice it doesn't change to 2nd (or is it 3rd if it pulls off in 2nd)? Shift selector to manual mode to change but still no change. Turn off the ignition and re-start. Fault usually clears completely but may occur again at next start, or may not. Once cleared, can drive many miles with no problem. Shifts appear nice and crisp, rev needle drops quickly in the next gear, so no slippage. On instrument, antislip and ABS warning show. I can clear but they return quickly. Also have a brake fluid warning (see page 33 owners handbook lower left side of page). Checked brake fluid of course - seems full. Fiddled with the float a bit pushing it up and down. Brake fluid fault disappeared for a little while. The brake fluid symbol illuminates and goes out at various times whilst driving. Of course this is a nightmare because one must still stop and check, not just assume that because it was / is spurious fault that the brake fluid is still OK because it was OK before. I think that's the proper approach to warnings. On VCDS no gearbox fault shown, but there is implausible signal coming from one or more wheel speed sensors. Should I replace all the wheel speed sensors as a sensible starting point? Should I take the VCDS into adaptation mode and reset the gearbox properly? Thanks to everyone who has a moment to scratch your heads and apply some grey matter or experience to it. Rich

That has occurred to me JR. I will have to look out an old VCDS scan and find the gearbox serial number. I think moody is the right word. For now I am just putting it to the guy and asking why does the sear not lock down, why is it smaller and different shape at the front with different material where the zips are.

For those giving me the generosity of their time to consider the facts in this case, I would just add that the leather material around the zips area is on my left rear seat, a soft leather, and on the right seat, appears to be a kind of man-made material. I am pretty certain they were both the same as in Img_3473. It would be great if those with Octavia VRS mk2 with the half leather and alcantara would check what they have and let me know.

I don't suppose that would alter the width of the seat base though. In Img_3470 and 3474 you will see how on one side the seat does not meet the edge of the bolster. Perhaps the seat shrank ;). No, but I take your point. However, I wouldn't very much like to try to undress the seats to clean them. Would think it would be far easier for a professional with the right chemistry to do them out side of the car but as a whole.

Can't really speculate over motive, other than money. Many parts totally unconnected with a gearbox service, were missing from my car and I'm still working through getting replacements, some of which are difficult to get. Fortunately, a very good team at SKODA-PARTS.COM are helping me. The problem with the back base seat is that it doesn't fit. if you look at photo 3469, you will see the back of the seat base is exposed when that is supposed to be underneath as in 3473 As for why the zips are open and broken, that's another mystery. Compare photo 3470 and 3474 you will see the seat width doesn't correspond. In photo 3472 you will see the centre seat has been badly scrunched. It was totally flat and untouched. The rear of my car had never had any passengers since new. Everything was new looking in every way. Its hard to judge from these photos when one is not familiar with the car or the wider context of all the missing parts too many to mention but from old air hoses exchanged for my good ones, to a broken air box exchanged for my good one, right down to the windscreen wiper nut caps, the windscreen washer filter or non-vag bolts where there should be specific VAG hi tensile bolts, leaving me with a broken engine mount on the motorway diagnosed as missing, broken or wrong bolts. Three bolts missing from gearbox housing, yet the gearbox service only involved doing a DSG service, not taking the gearbox off. You will understand I am not looking for motive only that there have already been so many things missing or broken it doesn't see so extraordinarily unlikely as you suggest that my seat base is not original to THIS car. VAG just are not sloppy about seats being different widths as in 3470 and 3474. Does that seem to colour the situation a bit more. These other facts however, are nothing to do with the seat and cannot be judged as part of it. We are just looking at the strangeness that is those two photos that show how far the seat base comes out to meet the bolster edge. I hope my laborious reply helps

Certainly an interesting possibility, but with the leather I wonder if it could have worked without some other evidence. I'm not sure what those zips are actually for unless its throwing the covering in a washing machine!

The title might sound a bit weird, but something strange has happened to my car after being in an independent workshop for several weeks. When I got it back the seats were covered in oily finger marks. They are leather and alcantara, so I was particularly annoyed. The garage offered to clean them which I thought they should have done before offering me the car back. When I was cleaning the car the rear right seat base attracted my attention because it appears the seat is not locked into position and also that someone has opened the small zips, which I cannot understand at all why a gearbox service would require anything to be done with seats. Upon further inspection it does not look like the correct seat base. I'm seeking members' views judged on looking at these photos I have posted. The pictures are, in order (L-R lowest file numbers first), the first 5 are the rear right seat - the one in question. The following three are the left side rear seat. Comparisons I am making are: why the seat extends further and why the seat doesn't come to the edge of the upper bolster. The rest of it is self explanatory; zips that have been opened, one broken. A centre section that's all creased. and the cloth webbing itself dirty with a stain I cannot seem to get out. The main thing I am trying to establish is whether this is a genuine seat for this model. You might ask 'don't you know already?'. In a way I am very suspicious that this is not the base of my original rear seat, but you know how things are...unless your attention is drawn to something it is very difficult to say with certainty. For example, in Img_3470, why the seat doesn't seem to meet the base of the left side bolster. Img_3474 is a mirror of Img_3470 only on the right side, so you can see how the seat base meets the bolster precisely. I have included the part number I saw in the foam on the base when I opened up the underneath. I guess I am looking for validation; whether members think there is something wrong and what you guys think the problem is. Anyone who could look up a part number to ascertain what that number in the foam under the seat is, might shed some light on what seat it actually is. My thoughts are is it from a pre-facelift VRS or it is perhaps from another model that used the same upholstery design. It is a sad suspicion to have, but I wonder if my seat base was sold. I have to be very careful before I make that accusation, hence my posting here to see what the consensus is. Is there a way I can find the manufacturer date or code in order to catch the suspect?

I understand this issue. I always make an effort not to cause this sort of strain. The way I do it is I modified my way of leaving the car. It feels a bit unnatural at first, but I turn my body quite a fair way first before getting up and put one leg on the ground outside the car to stabilise me and enable me to kind of pivot as I leave. That way I'm not stress the seat. Likewise when I get in I try to do it without dragging my body onto the seat. As I say, feels a bit strange at first, but after you do it a few times your will soon refine your technique. I hope this helps.

I think i have seen a badge from another model, maybe a Scout that has the locator pins in the right place. I'll check on that first before cutting off any pins! My alignment skills might not be the best!

Hi Gissin, Purchased the front badge but found it doesn't fit because the locator pins are in the wrong place. On my grille, they mounting holes are 180 degrees across the centre. Another was also recommend. Part 3V0 853 621 FOD, but locator pins were again not in the right place. I know there is a badge that fits because I had one. Unfortunately no longer do I have that because the garage that put my new grille on said the old badge could not be recovered. It looked alright to me before they broke it trying to get it off.

Its a pity it doesn't seem to cover SKODA clips. So difficult to get a handle on this stuff. I've been looking for some little beige button clips that are used to hold the grille on Octavia mk2. You'd think they would be easy to get. No! I've been looking for the dogleg cable carrier that doubles as a firewall retaining clip. Easy to get surely? No. Frustrating? Yes!

Hi all. Hope you're all doing really well today. I'm looking for some cable clips that fit on my firewall and carry cables but they are also shaped to hold the firewall up. They plug into the two holes at the back of bulk head like the photo. They're strange dogleg shape as they are dual purpose. I'm still struggling to find those outfits that carry VAG fasteners as I also need a plug that covers my wipe nuts. Someone stole them. Anyone got some cool sources for all this small plastic stuff? Thanks

Thanks for that Breezy. Yes, 'refreshing' was a bit flippant and just about keeping it simple. I do want to get across many bolts clamps and clips. People think I am a bit mad. The SKODA dealer asked why I didn't just buy a new car if I want my engine to look so good. I don't understand these folk. Maybe I am a bit mad. Maybe I am OTT or have one of those conditions like OCD.

Thanks very much Breezy. Its reassuring that we are coming to the same conclusion when even the dealer doesn't seem to know. How useless my SKODA dealer is. They can't even manage to sell me parts that fit. They can't even get a collection of screws and nuts together so I can refresh my engine bay. That's my next bit of research. Who carries proper nuts bolts and fasteners? Have you had any experience in this respect Pete?

Hi Pete, Thanks! My VIN is TMBEH21Z4B2123010.

Fab. That helps confirm my bumper plastics. Thanks :)

I've been hunting for the right part at the right price @Breezy_Pete and I turned up one with the suffix C, brand new for £47.44 + delivery of £8 and customs duties and taxes and collection fees from Germany bringing the total to £117.51 which seems quite a lot. Then I found this one which Autodoc said was just £8 delivery and didn't mention anything about duties and taxes. I couldn't see any of the PR codes you listed. I noticed that this large piece of metal is all quite wavy and inprecise looking. Is that normal? The breakers are a bit hit and miss when I ask questions about a part. They generally don't know very much other than its metal.

Thanks Mike, My bumper has this honeycomb grille design so I think it is as you have identified above. I have looked for P codes to identify parts more specifically to my build of the Octy. I have reproduced my build sticker here and can't see a code there that corresponds with 2xx. How should I proceed at this point?

Thanks Breezy_Pete. As my car is a VRS, I presume (I know I mustn't do that) it may have 'sports bumpers'. I do come across some very strange names for VAG parts, often not intuitive at all. Anyway will take a look at that sticker in the boot just to make sure my sports car doesn't have comfort bumpers @Breezy_Pete! Thanks for that guidance. I now see that the long piece of plastic across the back of the slam panel that holds the air intake in place has also been broken by the mechanic. Can anyone imagine smoke coming from my location?

Thanks Mike. I noticed there are two parts with similar numbers. The one you gave 1Z0 807 109 C and 1Z0 807 109 D. How do I know which one is right? The page appears to be for Octavia but the second item mentions Scout. Ne'er did so much mystery abound as in VAG part number suffixes

I'll take another photo and hopefully you will get your bearings. The headlight is not above the damage I am referring to. Let's see what I have come up with here.... Do these give you your bearings? What are you trying to do? I'm just going to take my bumper off to replace the crash beam. This nasty bit of damage you can see in the second photo ruined it.

Hi again, No there is no panel gap under the headlamps. I suspect you aren't visualising the space we are talking about. It can only be seen with the bonnet open. Also the rust you see is a result of the damage from someone's hook on the barely painted crash bar. The part is not visible unless you stand right over the centre of the front bumper and look backwards because the frame is under the bumper. The recovery vehicle tried to put the hook over the crash bar having opened the bonnet to do so. Very sloppy. Indicates they had no knowledge of how to secure the vehicle. If you ever need to be recovered, always stand over the guy, male or female, to make sure they are not doing what you do not agree.