OctaviaVRS2

That's horrifying. I wonder if its better now to just buy a new head because its skimmed to the limit now?

Thanks for clarifying. I found the post by landed on it from a search so I guess the search connected me by terns like 'pressure'. I have to try to refine my searches better.

I have a ridiculous problem like this. People in the know have often said they've not come across head gasket problems on 2.0 TD or only rarely. This is what happens to my 2.0 TDI ever since I had a radiator replaced. These symptoms are after I had a head gasket, skimmed head and a new EGR cooler, although it was worse before I fixed those, 1. Temperature will rise when I drive it fast 2. The heater doesn't blow hot air 3. Oil is fine 4. Car drives fine. 5. Sometimes the coolant will be compresses in the engine and will come back into the reservoir tank when I release the cap. 6. Checking coolant after engine warmed up, it appears very high. 7. Driving round local area at slower speeds I don't suddenly suffer coolant red light, but a hard run over ten or more miles may do so. 8. After car cools overnight, occasionally the coolant will be below minimum mark in the morning. Is it possible that I could have blown the Head Gasket or is it the water pump?

Would that be possible if there is no compromised areas around the gasket oil holes? Surely it has to be compromised between a coolant channel and the cylinder for pressure to get to the coolant? Lookimg for all the ways coolant can become pressurised is the way I have it in my mind. I wonder what other members are thinking about this? I try to visualise as best I can.

Hi, I'm offering as follows: Genuine VCDS diagnostic Using a HEX-NET I come with the full Software on PC. DEVON Torbay - South Hams - Newton Abbot - Exeter - Sidmouth I noticed the list sometimes refers to specific towns. I wonder if under the county name should be the towns the VCDS owner will travel to, For example, Devon is a massive county but I'm not able to cover it all at a cost that would make sense to an owner or me. Thanks for the initiative on this resource. Must make many peoples' lives easier. Yet another reason to visit and become a member of the Briskoda community. We are all working hard to counter the stealers.

Many thanks for that guidance langers2K. Its a great help. I didn't know the group existed. The byline in your profile about increasin mileage is interesting. I had to get a replacement cluster because the leds were failing, or rather the solders were bad and they'd flicker on an off, but when I asked different workshops to do this, they either wouldn't or I got the impression they thought I was up to something. But I've never heard of clocking cars up!

Recently needed VCDS Diagnostics and was very frustrated to find no mobile mechanic able to offer me that service around my area - not even Collumpton, Newton Abbot or Torquay. No-one I could drive to and no-one who could come to me. I got so frustrated I dipped into my overdraft to buy a very expensive piece of kit, which to be honest is absolutely excellent but very old-style GUI and mysterious. Anyway after being disappointed it wasn't just an easy thing to run the diagnostics properly, I have learned it and now I am thinking I might like to offer a service to others who are in the same boat as I was, and hopefully recover some of my cost by offering fairly priced service complete with logs of reports. Would members here express whether VCDS service from a mobile owner is something that would interest them. I can't say I can get to everyone who might want such a service. It may be the case, that as I could not get such service myself, there's actually little call for it and others have already explored this. Certainly interested to hear from all you guys interested and those who have benefitted from using VCDS. You might perhaps say what you were able to achieve with your car, Do say what car as different models and variants can have very different options available for VCDS to access.

Doesnt car look so smart. I bet youve enjoyed it. Is it still alive? I was trying to get new style badges for my Octy 2, but neither of the dealers in my area were willing to help or advise; they took the company line that 'this part is not a fitment for your car'. Actually they wouldn't even disclose the part numbers. Ridiculoius. Anyone know what will fit an Octy 2, with its slightly curved front grille. I can see the back badge when meansure is smaller. So what I think I know is the back is 80mm and the front is 90mm. Only using a dressmaker's tape measure though, so can't say for example 80.2mm!

It woukd have been great had you come back in on this one and shared your finndings and how you put it right.

CEGA is a very good engine. If you did have a dieselgate fix and want to remap, they'll get rid of the dieselgate for you. Heard of too many problems with that fix. However, if you have th fix and things don't work properly, SKODA invariably throw parts at it so you get a lot of new stuff where appropriate. The main thing is that despite what the dealer might say, you can always undo dieselgate software and do the remap if you want one. Has anyone here managed more than 205bhp on remap? I had a failed plastic manifold. It is literally failed plastic which has no bearing surfaces in the flap control rod. So as these flaps open and close all the time, they just wear away the plastic. I was not able to solve the problem using the special fix bracket, but when I replaced the manifold, I was able to fix that bracket to avoid the problem every occuring. I also PTFE sprayed on the rotator rod where it rotates inside plastic bearers. Very silly to do this on such a good engine. Not only this but seems they don't want owners to solve the problems themselves, so they put actuator motor mounting screws in from the back so that once the manifold is mounted there's no way to remove or change the actuator motor (V120). Fortunately these plastic flaps are not of a type that can detach and get ingested. However, after doing the change I found I had codes which really need a VCDS session to analyse and resolve. Are there any members in South Devon who would be willing to help with that?

I think the question is where is that mark and how does one align the parts? Clearly the embedded piece of metal is inside the gear cog for a reason. Has anyone found out the answer?

I’ve found that certain problems seem to come up as the mileage increases. The inlet manifold flaps get stuck. The messages from code readers are cryptic like Manifold runner position sensor - range performance or Manifold runner stuck. Some people try to fix worn out flaps in their manifold. I have a plastic manifold and despite attempts to resolve it using a special little bracket, it proved hopeless and I had to buy a new manifold. I didn’t at the time realise it is possible to get a manifold flap repair kit. But whichever way the manifold invariably has to come off. Then I discovered my manifold actuator motor was shorting to ground. That was bizarre. Everyone wants to charge big money, but if you get a better understanding of the situation, it’s possible to resolve these issues oneself with the purchase of a few tools. But one must get an understanding of the complex system that controls these engines. For example I took apart my V100 throttle body to service it. What I did not realise is that a magnet is hidden inside a gear cog in the mechanism and if you remove that gear cog without noting precisely it’s position, then it’s highly unlikely you’ll get that part working again. I’m quite interested to know if other owners have come across this and know what position the magnet inside the gear cog should be in. Here’s a photo in which I have backlit the cog so you can see what’s inside the cog. Not possible to do this with the black cogs, but beware, the magnet is there! But where and how should one reassemble. If others have come across this and can enlighten us, I’m sure it will save other owners a lot of money. Being aware and in the knowledge of this very subtle engineering will enable you to correctly reassemble your actuators, whether the V100 or the V120 / V157. Can you see the magnet? Do you know the correct position it should be placed on the spindle? This cog is from the V100. In the V120 the cog is black so you have a problem unless you can deduce any subtle clues where the magnet is!

Was excited to download manual for Octavia 2, but I must be some kind of dummy. After going through the Mega download and installing on my iPad, I found a huge zip file which could not be accessed directly. Eventually I managed to download 5 files, but the reality is that these look like OS installation files for Windows or Mac. I am presuming these are programs through which the manual is viewed, but I’m only guessing. I wonder if anyone has a straight PDF of the manual? On an iPad those install files don’t make much sense and can’t be used. Anyone got any ideas if there’s a simpler way to get access to the manual?

That sounds like a really cool thing. Something I’d like to know more about. When I was ignored in my local SKODA dealer when looking for a replacement for my VRS TDI with a VRS TDI (I like them so much), I decided not to buy anything more from dealer, but instead spend money on making sure my existing VRS is good for its next 150K. Along the way I’ve encountered strange things that seem to insist I can only set them on dealer network equipment. So, to keep going this is one of those things I need to consider, until I see the price is not so small! I must save harder!

Hi Al, That’s cool to know you’re not far away, Do you get really physical with your Skoda and keep the stealers out by doing it yourself? Ricard

It would be great if a download link for Octavia 2 workshop manual was available. Perhaps a kind member of the fabulous BRISKODA might be so kind to put one up. Maybe I could put one in a Dropbox that all members could access. What are your thoughts on that? I know some people would like to help but can’t or would rather not host it on their own PC. It is a request that comes up repeatedly.

I looked into my coolant loss a bit more pikpilot, and the puzzle is not clear pikpilot. No contamination of oil, no steam from exhaust, coolant system appears to have pressure even after cooling so no pressure losses, coolant cap appears to work, No lack of performance or rough running, no coolant on the ground (remember everyone, if your car is leaking coolant onto the ground where animals can lick it, you need to prevent that from happening as it kills them quickly and in great pain). My plan now is to replace the thermostat as much as that was £100 of labour I had hoped to avoid and replace the coolant flange, widely reported to be a cause of coolant loss. I'm pursuing the cheaper options first given that the parts themselves are not expensive. I hope its not the EGR cooler as I understand that is a difficult replacement. One member here kindly suggested his experience with K-Seal, but I'm avoiding it. Not that I'm avoiding all sealants but I am avoiding those that contain solids, that work by 'cooking', rather than a chemical reaction. All view are welcome. I notice many people with the VAG 2.0 TDI have referenced inexplicable water loss that has defied expensive intervention or testing at main dealer. £150 for keeping car overnight to see if coolant dropped is not really my idea of money well spent. I can do it myself by opening the bonnet and looking! Finally, what are members views about opening the coolant bottle. Is it something that is without consequence or should it be minimised. The 2.0 TDI coolant bottle markings are not the easiest to see on my car the way the markings are placed. I try to shine a torch behind the bottle to see the level but sometimes I do open it and of course when doing so I am relieving pressure that might be a needed stabiliation of the system. clearly the bottle is meant to be viewed without opening the cap or there would be no need to make it translucent!

I have considered K-Seal, but concerns over the particulate matter in it and the possibility for the very small channels in my engine to block up is the reason I haven't done so. The stuff usually has a tell tale sign of use by its colour and blocks the heater core matrix if not reducing the effectiveness of the radiator. Ideally the solution would be transparent and not coat everything in a kind of 'paint'

Thanks pikpilot. I'll try a high tech sealer - one of those without particulate matter in. There are a couple that are said to be good for minor head gasket problems. Any opinion on the best of these?

Have done coolant flush and the water is now clear and stays clear. Changed Timing belt, ancilliary belt, all the rollers and tensioner plus water pump. Nothing appears on the undertray. The most curious thing is I can be staring in the engine bay after just stopping the engine and see the coolant disappear from the bottle as if it has been simiply 'opened'. Its really fast. I filmed it one time and it was about a minute for it to drop 2cm. Other times I have parked up, everything fine, visited someone for a few minutes, come back and the coolant is gone, despite actually seeing it was all there before I stopped the engine. I've been making those sort of OCD checks in an effort to nail the symptom and when it occurs in the hope I could trap the culprit. I can drive round town and locally and apparently have the same level of coolant on my return as I did when I started. I make sure I am doing my checks so I can compare like for like. In other words start with a level of coolant I can mark precisely when the engine is warm, drive and then check again before stopping the engine and so often all is fine. Someone said a bad thermostat can cause this. I bought one of those too as they cheap enouhg, although at about £150 to fit it, the labour cost is not something I want to waste. There's so much stuff in the way, I havent yet found a site that shows a relatively easy way to get the thermostat out! It looks like the EGR and throttle body has to come off in any event, even if one can work round the alternator. For some time I thought this was associated with DPF regen as I was getting quite a few regens until I went on a longer journey. That has put regens to sleep for time being. So I now know its not regens. Another person says the water must be going in the exhaust although I have never seen any evidence of a whole bottle of coolant in the exhaust, either by steam or shooting out when revving the engine.

Hello again, Now in the proper post to ask the question how you solved your coolant loss, if you did? I have had coolant loss for many months and its bizarre. I can drive fifty miles without any problem and then when coasting to a stop, suddenly I nearly jump out of my seat as the coolant alarm goes off. I rush round to see what the problem is and there's no coolant (at all!). So I have been topping up with distilled water for a long time now as coolant would be bankrupting me. But there's something very mysterious about this. One person suggested I remove the expansion tank and fill the coolant system with a hosepipe which would allow water to be forced into the block and enable me to ensure there is no air. That person said its extremely difficult to get air out of these engines once the factory coolant has run out or the coolant has been lost for some reason, no matter what instructions are followed. He means normal instructions of course, rather than removing the expansion tank to get the coolant forced through. I would prefer to get the coolant in another way. I also noticed on various forums of members with cars of similar age to ours remarking that a common failure is the gasket on the Coolant Flange on the battery side of the engine. It looks easy enough to get to so I ordered a Coolant Flange and intend to fit it as a matter of course. Before I get into it, I thought I would seek your final experience on your coolant loss and how you solved it. Was anything I mentioned similar in your case? My car is actually an Octavia mk2 VRS 2.0 TDI with CEGA engine. I believe that is extremely similar to one of yours. Thanks for your many contributions here.

I found that bit of guidance about cutting the splash pans very helpful. Who would want to undo all that stuff. Off topic I noticed you as a VRS enthusiast when I read the problem you had with coolant. I didn't notice you got any resolution on that. Is it still losing the coolant periodically? Perhaps I should find your post and respond in the proper place so others might see the conclusion if there was one.

It’s a bit too cheap and not clear exactly what key functionality is available. My advice is check around, then ask seller any questions you may have. If you are looking for specific functionality to be able to reset things, find out what is all that functionality if any, so you know if this is likely to be a one time only box of tricks.

Hi, I too am yet another of the people needing to look into cooling system issues. I have Octavia 2 VRS 2.0 TDI and can drive round Exeter all day with no coolant loss but soon as o go out in ring road, I’ll lose all my coolant within a couple of miles at higher speed. A viable copy of the workshop manual would help me a lot too, since I need to first tackle replacement of the new style black plastic thermostat. I ran into the P2015 problem too and despite managing the very fiddly installation of P2015 Repair bracket for black plastic manifold, fitting the repair bracket did not solve my problem. I am wondering if the changed rest position of the actuator lever has to be informed to the ECU. If any member had coolant loss on or after DPF regen or after turning the engine off, and solved issue it would be good to hear how you did it? My two intractable problems are totally infuriating. It’s very disappointing that SKODA dealers don’t seem to share a knowledge base. I get the impression each and every one prefers to work through every case in a pattern that doesn’t seem connected with the evidence but more connected with the money.

I did think it was an extraordinary thing to happen. I envisioned plastic & tin plate being crunched through cogs and landing in the gearbox oil filter. Perhaps it was the DSG thermostat the workshop was referring to. Your comment about DSG cooler thermostat making the engine run cooler if it’s stuck, I looked on my car after hauling the air box out and snapping the drain pipe in the process! that there isn’t a thermostat on my gearbox anywhere near the cooler. I’m a bit puzzled here; isn’t the DSG cooled by an oil cooler? I see a finned block with pipes going to the gearbox but no devices inline. How would heater water be affected by DSG temperature? I don’t get it! As these cars have got quite complex, I wouldn’t be surprised if the bonnet open/closed position switch controls the oil level warning sensor. Nothing would be surprising any more after I have read some. They are certainly ‘clever’ cars and I like the VRS a lot, but diagnosing things can be tricky, even if one has codes to refer to.