OctaviaVRS2

Hi all, This one is for thos who know where to get all the tiny bits that SKODA want to charge a fortune for or can't or won't even bother to order. During my recent engine overhaul on my 2011 Octavia VRS, the garage pulled down the firewall, apparently in an effort to replace the heater. They should have know it is best done from inside the car removing the left side tunnel trim. However, the firewall is hanging down, they don't know where all the clips are or how it is fixed up. SKODA told me I would need to bring the car in because it would need the engine removing to fix the firewall material up. I can't get to grips with that idea at all since I can reach it with my hand and its not completely off as in all the way down to the tunnel, its just the top part that secures it up to the bulkhead where it meets another kind of material which I guess is an acoustic insulation. In the process all my wires are hanging down and when i picked up the car they were resting on the turbo!. Gathered them up in a temporary way but I'd like to fix it all back like factory. No-one knows what the clips are to hold the firewall foil up, and the tree style cable U clips are all gone. This really annoys me that people aren't more concious of what they are doing. Its not like its an old wreck. So for the experts in body and upholstery, panelling and all that kind of thing, can you identify the following? clips to hold the firewall foil up clips to hold the acoustic felt up if needed as well as the above, and; the cable u clips that press into the holes on the bulkhead to allow wiring to be carried across and not fall on the turbo. I guess to some this must sound pretty weird that I can't find out what these parts are. Unfortunately, SKODA give some things strange names and I don't know what the items would be called. I did try to help myself. Promise! Thanks for any help. Its always been good here. Makes Stealers not only look like thieves (£17 for 8 self tapping screws) but also ignorant. video_2023-03-04_12-39-11.mp4

Yes, the Haynes manual is pretty good. It doesn't go into extraordinary complex detail as in the 5000 page one that has been sold online recently, which is more like the manufacturers workshop manual, and pretty hard to get around, although in PDF thats easier than a paper binder! The Haynes is very good for all the kinds of jobs that owners may want to do that they would rather not engage a main stealer to do. I'm not familiar with the BWA engine as I am a diesel owner but you should get all you need to be able to rebuild. It has info like the necessary torques. I used for replacing crankshaft main bearings and big end shells. However, I was unsuccessful in the end because I did not withdraw pistons, separate them from rods and get the rods checked for straightness. It turned out my problem was a bent rod. There weren't any symptoms like misfire but over about 50 miles with the new shells, the shells on the journal with the bent rod, burnt out, and put lots of bearing shell tiny particles into the oil. But now, if it answers your question, I will be able to use the Haynes manual to rebuild my engine again, except this time I need a new crankshaft. But that's OK in that it explains all that, the necessary torques etc. However, when trying to rebuild an engine, it more often makes sense to do it with the engine out of the vehicle.

I'm using VCDS which is giving me P1116

I see. Thank you for that guidance @ApertureS. I will look at wiring to see if I have any voltages coming, but as I understand it, that is a difficult test. I will need to see if I can find some way to eliminate wiring as a cause. Where do readings coming into the sensor come from? I thought it was just the sensor creating 0.1 or 0.9 volts. I'll do one of those live tests and see if I can understand that. I knew this could be a nightmare scenario.

Hi Toot, Where are the bits of metal coming from? Do they come out or off the engine or out of the tailpipe. What exactly would cause that. Is it a realistic liklihood that these bits of metal can just fire out of the engine bay?

Surely the engine isn't goosed until it goes bang?

A curious issue here may attract the attention of the super techs here, so that's why I thought let's post it in case others have experienced the same. Vehicle 2.0 TDI VRS SKODA Octavia mk2 A VCDS scan revealed that my Lambda sensor wasn't working, so purchased a new one and installed it. Rescanned after clearing codes and what? The Lamda sensor still not working but its in conjunction with manifold flap motor error (I know about that one already). Does anyone have any guidance what may be wrong and how I might easily determine if I have power to the sensor. I only have a basic multimeter. But first obviously is what reason that circuit may not be on. Then, if it is on, are any pins not working or giving appropriate output. I have a sensor with heater element but just wondering if there is some issue with mk2 TDI not using a heating element by any chance. As you can tell I am in the completely in the dark why a new sensor doesn't work.

Thanks very much for that info Gissin. Just what I needed to know rather than make silly mistake. Rich

Thanks Joey. I'll check them out and see what they know. Rich

I've seen mk2 Octavia with new style badge, and it looks good. I believe its just the next later badge that came in but I cannot be sure if the badge of the mk3 fits or if best fit is from another model. Has any member here updated their badges? Anyone know the part number that will work for boot and grille? Some years ago I thought I saw such a topic but couldn't find it tonight! Thanks!

Is it really as simple as that? Surely the air can still get through can it not?

Hi Sealover1, Its not a downloadable PDF. Haynes keep the manual in the cloud and provide you access to it with username and password. I expect they've had enough of manuals suddenly being re-produced by users right left and centre. It is a worthwhile investment. Much better than another manual I ordered that was packed full of irrelevant stuff and not really instructional, it looked more like a parts manual.

This might sound like a crazy post. Perhaps it really is. I am interested to know if there's any way to cause a DSG to stall in some kind of emergency. The thing that comes to mind is when a turbo is blowing a gasket and the car is starting to run on the oil from the sump. Normally the car will rev out uncontrollably because its no longer under the control of any electronic management systems. It will clearly fail if it goes beyond the red line, which it will eventually do as the oil seal comes apart and the oil is sucked through the turbo into the engine. So the car will start to drive faster and putting one's foot on the brake is going to be a hard way to stop the car but will eventually be brought to a very hot stop, at which point the transmission clutches disengage leaving the engine to fly apart in seconds. In this scenario, one can stall a manual car, but ordinarily a DSG is not going to allow that. So I thought I would ask the many knowledgable people in this place if any of you has ever found a way to do it?

I hate them @bigjohn. They can cut into the pipe, they can't expand & contract while maintaining the same pressure, and they need unscrewing and screwing up to remove or refit. Not too keen on the look either. They look really bad when they get dirty or start to corrode

Some people say the Octavia had both plastic and alloy manifold and I've been wondering why. One person dealing in engines in Oldham told me they changed back to alloy manifold on 2012/2013 engines but I'm quite puzzled about that and not sure if that is true. I am surprised about these changes and would have thought the changes would only be for the purpose of reducing costs. a plastic manifold is clearly much less expensive for the company and more likely to fail during vehicle lifetime - creating extra revenue for VAG - often extremely expensive replacement for many owners who have become frustrated over the years about manifold flap failure. It appears its not failure of the flaps themselves but the mechanism in which the metal pivot rotates and allows the flaps to be over rotated to a point where an error is triggered. Its really an unnecessary error - there could be more leeway. It shouldn't be necessary to instruct the ECU to turn off the flap motor and illuminate the EML at this very small over rotation that is perfectly recoverable. I've looked at this situation a long time, first in an effort to fix my own problem. I was reluctant to buy a new manifold but I did so eventually, with a motor. I noticed the motor did not command any movement in the flap. When I removed the end cap to the motor housing, I saw that it was not capable of working because the internals were not of a kind that could determine the rotation position of the flaps. Eventually I traced my problem (open circuit or short to ground) to the fact that the motor body inside the housing was shorting to ground for unexpected or unknown reason, but after insulating the small 12v motor, I regained functionality and was able to use my original flap motor the V120 by VDO. The Chinese motor I purchased was of no use. It was not possible to strip it down and use the new parts. The best solution for failure of the plastic manifold motor / over rotation is probably to use the manifold repair bracket. But bear in mind that if it is for the plastic manifold you must get the specific repair bracket part for that manifold. Also removing the manifold motor or screws sufficiently to install the bracket. There is a tiny Wurth ratchet that will enable a dextrous person to tackle it, however you would need to cut a T27 bit down to the shortest possible length you can drive with the ratchet. That means you will probably end up shortening the bit by 50%. I am however interested in SKODA/VAG's approach to this problem and was informed that the Octavia amongst others was later fitted with a metal manifold once again. Has anyone here got any info or history about the different manifolds that have been used and during which periods? Was an alloy manifold still sometimes used on MK2 cars after 2012?

Does any knowledgable member here know when the alloy manifold was last used on Octavia mk2 VRS FL? I have been told it was still found on late CEGA engines into early 2013. If that's correct, then it would appear VAG went from alloy to plastic and back to alloy again on 2.0 tdi up to end of MK2 in 2013.

Does any member here know if there is a rebuild kit for the fuel pressure regulator on 2.0 TDI CR. I have two of these cars both CR, and would like to head off any issues with the fuel pressure regulator given the replacement cost of it around £350. I wish also to rebuild my injectors. Does anyone know who offers the rebuild kits? My garage seems only interested in throwing the parts away, but we're in a cost of living crisis not to mention that we must stop this wasteful conduct of just throwing stuff away. It's because I see these parts appear to be built up that I anticipate taking them apart and sorting out any deficiencies. Anyone interested in helping with this ambition?🧑🏻‍🎓 The vehicles are both 2011 Octavia 2.0 TDI CR vrs.

Injectors are rebuildable, high pressure lines can be cleaned, as can fuel lines. The necessary filters aren't a big deal. You should look inside the fuel tank when fuel is very low with a borescope and look around for dirt. Else drain tank and flush with kerosene. Other members may be able to advice on the testing of the fuel pump & high pressure fuel regulator valve. That is an expensive item, but like the injectors, it appears to be separable and so there is a very good chance you can open, clean and rebuild it. There may be a kit to refurbish it. You don't just need a new car. The people here are here to help, and I guess buying a new car is not the kind of help you were thinking of. What did happen by the way, all those years ago?

Excellent @MikeTheThinker. Thanks very much for all your valuable input.

Super @mikethethinker Couldn’t have wished for a better set of links. Now I feel uniquely empowered by that help Mike. Wont do Ali as you say no good if you need it quickly! Now I just have to find stainless steel.

Thank you @MikeTheThinker. Thinking as always. At least I have a route to solving the problem now. It may take a few steps. I think my engine is similar its a CEGA BMN? I'll check out your link. There's so many connections points on the cooling system for these engines. Want to get them all and especially those I can't get to once my engine is back in.

This issue has presented me with the most difficult problem in order to source the appropriate parts without going bankrupt through the SKODA dealer. They will not tell me the part numbers or how many of each size I need. Has any member gone through this already or knows how to solve it. I need to get them clamps quickly. There is no stainless steel part number for a genuine part. I accept that. I am just on a mission to spruce my car up and have done a lot in the engine bay already, but new clamps would be icing on the cake. I guess this is probably a hopeless ask judging by the difficulty I have encountered. Members might be able to tell me how to identify the part and size, then I can source them from alternative suppliers. I have been in touch with alternative suppliers, but they can't cope with the question, what are all the sizes and quantities needed! Can understand that I guess. Only perhaps a dedicated shop might be able to do it.

Many thanks for your valued assistance Wino. I'll head over to that link! Take care and stay safe.

Sorry about that. I'm not experienced at forums. The topics seem to be all over the place. A huge long list. Nothing is categorised into areas of interest, so I go down a massive list looking fior things that sound like they are about what I'm interested in until I am falling asleep and still don't find the entry point. Some places say don't keep starting new threads, others say start new thread. Thanks for your guidance already. I think I found I had two coolant tank pressure caps that were faulty. They were both new and both from Skoda. I reverted to my original pressure cap, which I only replaced because I was trying to eliminate an issue and it was the cheapest starting point. So, with my original pressure cap on, coolant doesn't over pressurise, hoses don't go hard and there's not loads of pressure in it if I open it the next day to have a look. It seems to me that the two suspect pressure caps were simply not releasing pressure until it was major. I can only drive and see. I drove 15 miles this evening, ten of which were vigorous and not a problem. I am suspicious my parking heater pump is not rotating and that is also not helping the movement of water. Also on the suspect caps the pressure increase seems to stop water moving around adequately. Soon as I can afford, it is causes more problems I'll get a pressure test done. One thing that helped quite a lot was to raise the water level very much higher than the engine. I got a lot of air out. Now the coolant doesn't go up and down so much.

As a matter of interest how does head lift occur in the first place? Everything I used was new and highest quality.