globalste

Yep they both charge similar via the online booking too, Inverness was more expensive than Salisbury with £200 more for cambelt!

I haven’t messed around on the Skoda website to see if location changes the prices, but interesting if they’re different. As it happens they did the brake fluid for free and I’m just about to pick up the filters and do them myself - I will defo get the plugs done from an independent if I still have it. We had a Discovery V before the Superb, when I took that for something like rear brakes the dealership seemed to quote prices well above the website booking engine and I forced them to match them - they were always really reluctant because the website prices were competitively priced. Ive had an Audi before and quite often they will match independents.

See my thread on mad suspension assistance springs, I’d definitely recommend them for towing a caravan (the main tech guy at mad suspension has a superb estate with DCC). If you have a Sportline then only the Westfalia detachable will fit under the bumper. When towing keep the DCC set to normal. You should definitely get the towbar completely coded and by a reputable dealer otherwise it will wreak havoc with your ACC and other stuff, coding does amongst other things disabled side assist and remote boot to stop you trashing your tailgate. Finally, not all towbars have a 90-100kg noseweight, don’t want to find yourself limited to 75kg and then struggling to balance the van.

I’d never pay for skoda to replace a filter, but, I don’t really want to go and buy a £15 filter and 20mins later find it was done either! I find the whole service schedules so… untransparent, it’s no wonder customers are left confused or constantly asking questions like when does my DSG have a service. The chart you posted is different to the one I saw when I put my reg in on the service portal, not massively, but it’s different. I’ve never seen one that shows year 1&2 on it.

Did another dummy online booking (I booked it months ago), think I found the answer as they’re all optional items

I used to be able to read the Superb maintenance manual no problem, but for some reason this week I’m struggling. car went in for its 24mth service, it’s done 9k miles. I asked them to do the brake fluid and they offered an air conditioning purge service for £10 so I said yes (suspect it’s just a decontamination). I can’t find anything written on whether they would have changed the air filter and the pollen filter, I’m fairly certain they haven’t done the pollen filter as I’ve seen the fixed price servicing chart from year 3 and they charge £35 for that, but I can’t find anything for year 2. And then I wondered if they’d done the air filter as well. I’ve ordered a carbon pollen filter anyway from Eurocarparts for £14 as they have a Bosch sale on.

Plenty of ANPR in the ULEZ, the government are very determined to catch all staff who travel 200m into the ULEZ to the Carpark next to the runway at Heathrow! anyway, best to keep on topic as the phantom charging is definitely a problem on the iV without a known solution.

there is someone on here who had leaking roof rails. it sounds more like its leaking from the bulkhead though, did you check the cabin filter?

Have you got VagDPF set to live data, otherwise it doesn't update every few seconds. Did you set Vagdpf to your specific engine code? Temps as legacy said look quite low for any form of regeneration to happen, you need 300c for a passive regeneration and an active regeneration triggers the temp up to 600c. Need screenshots from the actual app if available as it shows a lot more data, the ash levels will help.

Mine occasionally charges at a random time, I don't have any solid data for it, it's maybe 1 in 20 charges, but I believe its down to opening/closing the car when it's on timer. The car can go into a sleep mode if left for more than a day and that can be annoying because then the app comes up with an error about exceeding the maximum number of requests, but that's a different issue. The app doesn't like opening from a cached version, if you use an iphone then in my experience its always best to completely shut the app so that it gets a clean data download when it opens up. I've experimented with programming timers from the car and the app, in theory they're the same but in reality I find that the car is more reliable eg i can never turn off "allow battery" from the app for heating. The app is very laggy, so its quite possible that you pressed charge when you didn't mean to and the app showed nothing. Have you got your minimum charge set to zero, otherwise it will try to start a charge when ever it likes. The maximum mpg is 300, if you go further in the page you will see it gives the number of miles on battery and on engine, the regen can give a lot of battery miles. Good that Octopus have added the Skoda, it used to only be a handful of manufacturers unless you bought a specific 7kw charger. If you want a £50 credit to your octopus account then I can send you a referral link. You join octopus standard tariff first when your smart meter is installed, then once they've got readings up and running you switch to Intelligent tariff. Charger defo came with mine, it came with a 7kw lead and a 3pin charger. Maybe they stopped supplying them after I got mine, or I got lucky. Ah ok, 25p/kw and you're using around 8kw each way. The engine does about 45mpg avg so you're probably better driving the car in hybrid mode, but not in auto, and set the accumulator to 50% so the car arrives with 50% battery at work. Then set it to hybrid auto going back. (you need to use the skoda satnav for this to work properly) and if it still has say 10% left with a few miles to go switch it to electric only to use up the last bit. Have you got your graph for today (12th) to see what the charger did this morning?

Some folk have had an iv much longer than me, but from my memory, near freezing conditions sat on the motorway with a 33 mile predicted range is unheard of. Most would be lucky to get that driving carefully in summer, is your commute really flat?. The battery drive uses a lot more kw/mi above 50mph which is why the auto hybrid drive tends to switch to the engine at higher speeds, but if i got free charging at work on a 25mile I’d use as much battery as possible. For the timing charging, I’m assuming you’ve set the time zone as your off peak charging when you refer to the timers? Are you setting up the timer from the app or the car, and have you set the “use battery” to off for heating? (I’m guessing this was on if your car was warm otherwise it would have drawn current) Did you unlock the car at all to get something out of the car at night, or forget it was unlocked and then lock it? These are some of the things that I find can flick the timer off and it just starts charging. I’d be tempted to remove the Tapo as my first call, then check on your smart meter later when the charge started. I’m certain that any interruption to the car nudges the cars timer and the charge cycle turns on Is there a reason you’re not using the original Skoda charger?

For the rear Eibach recommend the 11-85-016-10-HA, so I might try those with the Q2 springs. I wonder why they make so many different lengths and coil thickness for a single vehicle…

The only VAG cars I can think that mirror everything to the dashboard is the Audi TT and the R8. Android doesn’t work as functionally as CarPlay for a lot of vehicles, eg on the latest JLR they will mirror applemaps onto the dashboard but not Googlemaps - I suspect Apple Pay more somehow in order to get people to use their maps? I find CarPlay in general quite annoying, I don’t really use it, I think the Skoda maps work pretty well and if you tell the car you want 50% battery by the end of the journey it knows what it’s doing, I just have google maps as a backup for traffic etc, never really used waze. Brake fluid change and aircon decontamination is what’s on the service list, but they cost extra. I tend to change the cabin filters every year myself, £7 from eurocarparts etc.

Cheers, I see what you mean now and that the gaps are slightly different my reason for asking was that I have an iV which has the extra 180kg near the rear axle and the motor gubbins up front so Eibach give higher rating axle weights. When we go away we put bikes on the back, dogs in the boot, Roofbox on etc, so we had some mad-suspension helper springs fitted to the rear which work brilliantly. My thought is if I fit Eibach springs as well, the rear isn’t going to drop by the full amount due to the helper springs and hence the front will look silly. Also, a lot of driveways in the UK don’t take kindly to a front splitter which is why I didn’t want it dropped the full amount. I will measure my arch gaps today!

I've wondered what that button is for ages, considering the cruise is on a separate stalk I wondered why on earth the speed limiter was there - now it makes sense1