spud75

I did the dsg rest procedure on my 2023 and it improved the gear box. Flicking across to manyal for down changes or just going manual improves things. I dont know why offroad mode is separate button for driving modes.... I have taken mine to the snow a couple times. chains only fit in the rear wheels but all good when i used them. I like that kessy works on the rear doors, and also for locking. I have a habit of getting out and walking around the back and locking the car from the rear doirsas i walk past. I am thinking 20mm eibach wheel spacers for a wider stance? You will use way more fuel than the diesel you had. (i also have a diesel octy RS manual). A trick with the cruise, if you pull the cruise control lever towards when on cruise, it increases 1 km at a time. Get a boot liner if it doesnt have one. Its a brilliant car. As said previously, jack of all trades, can put a smile on your face, but master of none.

So i have run rca, power and a 12v switching cable to the spare wheel well. I ran the rca down u der the door sills and the power cablesdown beside the transmission tunnel. I unbolted the middle row seats passenger side st only. 4 x bolts 15mm bolt head i think. The back ones are hidden under a plastic covering on the seat sliding rails. I just chocked the seat up as i couldnt easily find the wire connector to disconnect the rear heated seats and seatbelt sensor power. I then used an electrcian cable running strip and pushed from the back of the car under the sill all the way to the front untill it came out in the foot well. Attached the end of the rca's at the front and pulled then back through. Simples....ish. i then ran the cable under the carper under the rear seats. Did a simiilar method for the power cables down the side of the transmission tunnel to come out in the footwell at the front again. Taped to the pull stripand pulled back to the join in the carpet before the third row seats, then pulled through again to get to the tyre well. Put all the seats back in. At the front i used an iso harness to splice off the front and rear L and R speaker wires to low-level converter with high pass filter as well a switching power. The rca's plug into my converter whuch is in behind the fuse panel beside the glove box. All good si far. I used a bolt in the rear tyre well for my ground in the back of the car. Hooked the whole lot up to a cerwin-vega low height powered subwoofer VPSTX12 in the space saver spare and went to put the rear row of seats back own Son-of-a-####$$$!!!!!! Even with the low height sub, it sits 15mm too high. There is a support bar under the third row in the middle that runs front to back. That support bar curves and dips down below the level of the top of the spare. The sub fits IF i dont have the spare tyre in. Dammit. Aside from that, the sub sounds awesone and fills that missing bass on the columbus in my RS. Canton wasnt an option due to chip shortage. Part 3 of this adventure will be funding a lower offset space saver or modifying the bottom of the sub enclosure to see if i can get enough drop in height under that stupid centre bar on the third seat row to have the sub and spare tyre in at the same time. Stay tuned....... But if anyone with a 7 seatwr has any ideas?????

I just did this on a 2023 right hand drive on the weekend. You only need to take the battery out. Nothing else. You can get to everything. Leave the airbox etc all in place The grommet is there, but mine was round about 2cm in diameter. Its behind some black thermal insulation, that has a precut flap. 7cm x 4cm. You lift the flap and presto,there is the grommet waiting for you. It comes out behind the heater blower. In the cabin (RHD) on paseenger side, you need to remove a foam block piece (2x screws) and there is a 5cm round what looks like a duct going back through the firewall, but isnt. Squeeze your fingers between the blower at that point and the firewall and pull the cable down. Fairly easy after i worked out where the cable entered the cabin. The battery lead onto the fuse box distribution bar, under the bonnet has the perfect attachment point. Take the lid off the fusebox. Slide front facing side up (there is a catch on the face on the left of the car, just push the face in or slide a large flat screw driver into the release slot) The main battery cable has a 10mm hex head bolt that you loosen a few turns and slide a split circle wire connector on. Tighten the battery bolt back down. Run the woofer power cable down beside the main battey cable And put the face plate back on and thr fuse box lid. Then run the power cable via your preferred route to the grommet. Very neat. I will write up my fun running the rca amd power cables to the boot on my 7 seater, in another post.

I had all sorts of issues finding info on aftermarket towbar for 2023 petrol RS. There is some confusing info on 7 seater and the manual version i think that we never had in Australia. I ended up with a Brink hidden/removable with all electronics coded and installed. Came to close to $2000AUD all up. But a neat install. There is a trick to install with an extra plate on the chassis that hides the towbar bolt holes that need some special procedure to remove. My installer had a mate at skoda who helped out with this.

Not all of the readers of this are trying to upgrade due to optioning a lower spec audio system in the first place. My 2023 kodiaq RS did not have canton as an option due to chip shortage. So no separate stock amplifier or spare tyre sub for me. Just wasnt an option. So i have regular columbus in my RS. That was the ONLY option. The 2024 RS has canton standard, Grrrr..... I guess you could say i could option up to fancy canton by buying the next model year, but that is a $75000 option. The only real sub $75000 option for me is 1. Recode odbc and enable virtual sub woofer. (this isnt enabled on my columbus) 2. Add amp to head unit (considering kicker key 200.4) 3. Add active sub- woofer. (Considering cerwin vega or helix)

Having been following Briskoda for over 10 years, and the global reach of this forum, the information that is used is often well outside of the UK. The OP is from Melbourne, where it rarely drops below 4 deg C overnight, is usually 8deg +, and may have frost, once or twice a year. Yes in winter. The justification for winter tyres is dramatically reduced. Roads never get gritted, the diesel residue on the highways doesnt exist and the snow is 3 - 5 hours drive away. There are many who make regular weekend trips to the snow for the season (Queens birthday to first weekend Oct). Others may only go once or twice per year. Chains etc are available for hire at many ski rental outlets but they dont allow for low profile and/or wide tyres. There is also a mandatory law, that you are not allowed to enter a ski resort without carrying chains and they must be diamond pattern. No socks, ladder or the k-summit type. They are not deemed legal. Even though the chance of actually having to drive in snow is about 0.5% Snow tyres and winter tyres in Australia are a bespoke item and not common off the shelf. You will have to do some decent searching to find them. I did 5000km in my RS last year. It is hard to justify a full set of specialist (for Australia) snow tyres for a couple of 300mile return trips to the ski fields. I agree entirely, if you are doing lots of trips to the alpine areas in Australia (or you live in northern England), then full winter or snow tyres should be used for the season. The rules in Australia even state you dont have to carry chains in a 4WD with snow tyres. Storing a spare full set of tyres and rims somewhere for 9 months of the year is painful, so many including the OP are looking for an alternative. I have just been through the experience and thought I would share my findings.

I have just been through this exact same issue. The Konig K-Summits arent legal for Buller and Hotham. Dont get me started on the stupid regulations. I have 255/40 R20 on a Q3. Anyway, I cant put chains on front of my Q3 as there is no inside clearance between the suspension guard and the inside of the front tyre. I have some old Biathlon chains for my Octavia RS (225/40 R18), but they arent legal for Buller and Hotham anymore either. The Konig XG-12 Pro 247 will fit the rear wheels of my Q3. You only need to fit chains to 2 of the wheels for a 4WD or the driving wheels of a 2WD. The roads in Australia rarely have snow on them, and it is only for the last few km. Drive slow, take it easy, put chains on the rear wheels, it isn't a race. Kodiaq is AWD and will send drive to wheels with most traction. Hence the rears. The owners manual for the Q3 says only put on the front. I rang Audi and spoke to service and they said put on the rears, no problem. Put in off road mode. If you are going to up tot he snow lots, with a season pass, invest in snow tyres and or different rims/tyres for ski season, or an old cheap dual cab 4WD ute. If like most of us, it is only occasional, spending $1500 on a spare set of rims/tyres just makes the argument to go to NZ or Japan even stronger.