Shaunieboy

Yeah we have the gen 2's on the Yeti. Very good, if a little vague in the corners when compared to a Crossclimate or a good summer tyre. Can't have it all I guess!

Indeed, let's see if we get some ideas... Another option would be to drill out the badge and pop in an actual plastic centre cap. I would be pretty lucky if I could get sizes to match up though.... Using a holesaw

Happy holidays, I'm looking to transform these centre caps to 'Skoda'. I've heard a few people have had success doing this sort of thing on here so I'm open to ideas if anyone has any... The centre part of the cap isn't removable on these, so obviously the easiest thing would be to pop a sticker over the VW badge. However, the badge itself is slightly convex, so how would this work with a flat sticker? Cheers guys

Thanks again buddy 👊

Yip. And Skoda have to assume that there will be someone, somewhere, who is going to abuse the crap out of the car and be redlining day in day out, and then try and claim on warranty when their engine craps itself. The standard power output is mapped to take into account these scenarios to minimise warranty claims for busted components. A remap done properly is simply getting rid of the whole 'no one is allowed nice things because 0.01% of you will drive the car like an idiot' thing.

As above. Anecdotally, people recommend 5w40 and a genuine filter. Change the oil 10k miles max, perhaps sooner if lots of town driving/cold starts. Not a lot else to do really. Stop worrying, it's a noisy engine. The injectors are noisy, the HPFP is rackety. 2013 plate all had the upgraded chain / guides. In a year of ownership I've heard ours 2013 1.2 rattle its chain on startup twice and it was for around a second. And I am OCD beyond belief. Just keep a casual ear out for the rattle and if it gets noticeably worse over a course of weeks, get it looked at. Worry less, drive more.

Also, my point was the exact opposite, I'm NOT a racing snake driver, the conditions were crap, fuel tank 3/4 full and still managed to rinse the manufacturers claimed time.

Hand on heart, and I know I'm coming across as a bit of a 'big head' here, but with careful driving and a good level of anticipation, I've found it pretty easy to match the manufacturers figures. Even taking into consideration the 'generous' mpg figures on the maxidot. I know I'm not alone here too!

I don't have that figure but I would hazard a guess on a dry road with warm tyres and with some practice (this is literally the first 0-60 I've done in around a decade) it would be at worst the same but more likely less. Probably in first gear a little too long. Its not something I want to necessarily do again or keep repeating as it's harsh on the drive train. I was more interested in peoples own experiences vs the manufacturers claims.

Hey guys, Has anyone done an accurate 0-60 using a GPS app? I was really surprised to get an 8.6 seconds on my remapped 1.6. Obviously is was always going to be quicker than standard (12.3 seconds), but by such a margin is quite a pleasant surprise. The road was pretty greasy too. À Do skoda understate their 0-60 times? I notice even the standard 2.0 is 10+ seconds.

I'm afraid my other half has 'put it somewhere safe'. I'll have a look when I get chance.

Extra torque Ken. The engine doesn't have to rev as hard to 'get places'. Under normal driving conditions of course.

Dyno. Anywhere between 125 - 135bhp seems fairly commonplace after having a mooch about on other tuning sites.

As promised, an update after having the Yeti 1.2tsi remapped. Yes! In a nutshell, it was totally worth it. 105bhp to 128bhp 175nm to 221nm But beyond the figures, the car is simply so much more enjoyable to drive now. Particularly up hills/with a carload. The extra torque has helped a great deal. MPG is up but I'll report back after a few weeks. We used the same company who did my Superb (Big Fish Tuning in Stokesley).

I've got mine sorted. I figured if I was going to spend any money on glue or tape, I might as well spend the extra and just replace the glass. So being the northern skin flint that I am, I just used whatever I had in the house, which happened to be original gorilla glue. Spread thinly enough it hasn't really expanded a noticeable amount, is waterproof and theres been minimal disturbance to the heat transfer to the glass. Invisible and cost free fix. Again, I must emphasise how thin you must spread the gorilla glue or it will expand too much.

Thanks for the replies people 😎

Transformed my 1.6, I wouldn't think twice provided it was done by a reputable company. Best money I've spent on anything automotive.

Hi folks, Our passenger side wing mirror glass has come away from the heated baseplate, almost as if the adhesive has failed. Does anyone have any suggestions on what part of glue to use to refit this, given the heated baseplate. Cheers

Hi, Is it a petrol or diesel? Mileage doesnt worry me too much, it depends on the type of miles (short trips/motorway). If diesel, at that age I would be asking whether its had any work done on the Diesel Particulate Filter or the EGR valve. Apart from that, if it drives well and has full dealer service history, not much else you can worry about. Always a chance some thing could go wrong at that Mileage.

Thanks a lot for the info

LED headlight bulbs? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07BHLRTPM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SMxYDbPNA0P9D Seem good in theory, bit I've been bitten by 'no make' products on amazon/ebay before...

As an example of 'things that make me worry less'... The manual 1.2tsi yeti has the same clutch and flywheel as the 1.4tsi, which produces around the same power as a mapped 1.2tsi. It's a non-issue until you start upgrading turbos and injectors

Willdo. I can state with absolute certainty that the economy of our superb 1.6 greenline 3 improved after a map. It's such a slippery car compared to the yeti, which it basically a box on stilts.

We're getting our 1.2 manual done in december. Really helps the drivability of the car by all accounts.

Is it normal to be able to pull the handbrake up further when the foot brake is pressed? I've noticed that when I REALLY press the foot brake with force and apply the handbrake at the same time, it has a longer travel (perhaps 2 more clicks). It's also feels easier to pull. Cheers