DaveMiller

On my (older) car, it certainly depends on that and also it seems to depend on the road speed, plus the pattern of how hard the car was having to work before lifting off. That will involve a mysterious combination of driving style, acceleration, engine temperature, hill gradient, cornering, wind speed, wind direction and probably more. I find it simplest not to try and work it all out, but just to let the car decide when it’s the right time to coast, and when it's not. Any occasional economy benefits are a bonus

Personal preferences and expectations can be very different. I have the 1.4Tsi DSG and find it surprisingly capable. It’s far nippier, for example, than my 1995 2.2 litre (non turbo) Mercedes E class. I’ve used the Kodiaq for 100-mile airport runs with 5 adults and 8 suitcases, with no problems. It also feels completely unflustered when I tow a small car on a trailer. I’m old enough to think of much bigger engines as necessary - but I note that the 1.4 and later 1.5 have more bhp and better torque at low revs than in the 3.5-litre V8 I once had in a Rover 3500! As others say, see if you can get a test drive with the car full. It won’t be sporty, but it will be competent.

I think the op is saying that the camera comes on correctly, but STAYS ON, until a certain speed is reached, and because he's going slowly, that can take up to 30 seconds. Question is: how to switch back to normal view. (D-Dave - shout up if I'm wrong!)

No, I don’t think you’re missing anything - you can out the house number when entering the full address, but not when using the postcode. I tend to enter destinations by voice: “enter postcode” sets off relevant questions for that, whereas “navigate to (town name)” sets off questions about the street and then about the house number.

Some owners have had very good experience - but first, tell us the mtpm of that caravan, and we can give you a sensible answer.

There’s been quite a lot of discussion on this point in the forum - use the search and you’ll see it.

You mean it does, or it doesn't?

Mine loaded automatically, without me needing to give any logos. (But then I use just the main stations, with nothing abstruse, and I suppose the logos for other stations may not come through?)

Surely you need the right side (RHD) light, don’t you?

Have a look at the side which does not light up: does it contain the “bulb”/LED in the section for fog light? If not, coding won’t work.

JR - I don’t think Kenny was calling YOU a driving god. I took it that he was referring to the unusual abilities required by anyone to match the same level of safety otherwise provided by the systems that have been nullified?

To a towbar fitter, the intended “light” use should not be relevant. The car is officially capable of towing a certain weight and the fitter must ensure that the bar is fully capable of doing that. (Much as tyres must match the capability of the car, not the “I never go above 50” that might be stated by the driver 😀)

Perhaps I’ve misunderstood the purpose, here. I thought that the heat of the exhaust, once the engine is fully warmed up, is supposed to keep the DPF operational. If it isn’t kept clean enough through that, the injector will cause a regeneration. BUT ... the injection and regeneration don’t continue if you turn the engine off - just the fan continues, to help dispel the extra heat that has already been produced. If, like many, you drive only short journeys, you will cause the regeneration to start at some point, but not to complete. Or have I got that wrong?

+1 for what Kenny said. It may (?) also be difficult to sell on a diesel when the time comes to trade it in.

Perhaps the OP does not have kessy?

Contact Skoda and ask. I'm aware of a similar situation on a Volvo, where Volvo needed evidence of identity - and then opened the hatchback remotely.

I bought the Autoglym Lifeshine kit on eBay (about £40) and did it myself. I was much more careful, slow and thorough than someone else would be, and it took less than 2 hours. I think it’s actually very good (dirt still comes off easily and the paint still shines, almost 3 years later) ... but £499 is ridiculous.

But the 1.4 DSG Kodiaqs have a SIX-speed gearbox, so can't be the DQ200.

An annoyance, certainly. Hardly a recall situation, as those are for serious safety issues.

I had never thought to check them, but just did. 3 years old next month, nearly 11,000 miles, always lives outside, both spindles pure satin black.

l’m guessing the OP is aiming to change tyres but keep the same wheels. If so, it needs checking out carefully. I had a similar idea a few years ago, when I fancied a more comfortable ride on my Saab. When I asked the local tyre company (in the UK), they said they would flatly refuse to do it. i’m guessing that there’s more to it than speedo calibration: the centre of mass will be higher, the brakes slightly less effective (and therefore permissible maximum load and trailer weights reduced) and so on. It’s certainly the sort of modification which would need to be reported to, and agreed by, the insurers.

Gosh, you’re right. I’ve now found several types available. My apologies!

Yes, it’s the way the car tells you to turn on your (better) lights.

The extra for over £40,000 has nothing to do with emissions. Whoever said it had? Two elements are involved: tax on emissions and tax on “luxury”.

I don’t think that works. 12 V sockets provide 12 V; USB sockets provide 5 V - so it’ll be easy to find a convertor which plugs into the 12 V socket (male “cigarette lighter” plug) and lowers the voltage to a (female) USB outlet. I’ve never seen a convertor which runs from a male USB plug and provides increased voltage in a female “cigarette lighter” socket.