DaveMiller

Has the dealer, and Skoda headquarters, actually seen that video?

I don't know what the problem is, sorry, but I think (from the video) it is serious enough not to drive the car. If it happened to mine, I would call Skoda Assist, and have them come to it. If they can't fix it, I'd want them to provide a loan car. Can you do that in Croatia?

I bought (and have extended) the service contract on my Kodiaq, but don’t feel that “they rush through the minimum before tea break”, My car is collected from my home (15 miles from the dealer) and brought back. The driver, the unfailingly polite Paul, always reports what’s been done (as well as giving me the paperwork). The car is cleaned inside and out. While the car is at the dealer’s, I receive an emailed video, showing the inspection of the underside of the car, and reporting on the individual tyre treads remaining. The next service (at 4 years) is due soon and I’ve been told the spark plugs will also be changed (included in the contract). I’m happy to have taken up the contract.

But the OP’s car IS on fixed service.

It will depend on how the brake lights are switched on. Remember that the Autohold is nothing to do with the handbrake: it’s a device which retains the pressure in the hydraulic brake pipes (and therefore acts on all four wheels). If the brake lights are turned on by pressure in the pipes, there may be no way to code it out. My brakelights certainly stay on on Autohold (but not with the parking brake). As I understand it (though I’ve only been told that) Autohold also holds apart the clutches in the DSG, so that they don’t wear unnecessarily.

I’m guessing the car originally had the reinflation kit - but it wouldn’t have had a jack or wheelbrace, as you don’t take the wheel off to use the kit.

Nine of the discussion here seems to address the question I’d ask: does the Enyaq come with “standard” or with “EV” tyres? See, for example,

I don’t think he said that at all. He said the dealer finally solved it, but the screen had got scratched by all the dry wiping.

I have my lights always set to “auto” - and the headlight washers work just fine. (Note that they work when you use the screen washers, but not every time - see handbook.)

The 1.5 (like my 1.4) will have less torque, and do fewer mpg. End of downsides. It’s noticeably quieter, quicker to give you some heat on a winter morning, and - my main joy - you can nip to the local shops without worrying about EGR and DPF woes.

For that journey, yes. For the whole month of journeys, something considerably better. We could say “let’s not have such buses” … and encourage more cars. Or we could say, “let’s have buses, but better buses”. That’s where the effort is needed. The point which the OP was making, and which you strangely seek to recognise, was that “since other problems exist, I’ll happily add mine”. That’s offensive not just to society and the environment, but also, and directly, to the people on this forum.

In my 2017 SEL Kodiaq (Columbus unit) I get informed on screen when updates are available, and can choose to download then and there (by phone data link) or wait till I get home and use wifi. I’ve never used a flashdrive on it. When maps are updated, the whole download can be enormous - but I’m not myself heading for Finland, Hungary, Macedonia, etc, so just tick the countries I want and let the car get on with it. I presume I can update them later if ever needed. While downloading UK maps, the satnav still works. It seems happy for to make a start on the downloads snd then soon finish the trip - it seems to sort it all out itself. I don’t pay for the part of Skoda Connect which enables me to use the app on my phone but I do pay for the part that gives me full traffic information. I don’t know if that makes a difference.

Sounds interesting. If the cut-off voltage is set to about 13V, it will automatically allow charge through to your power pack when the engine is running, and shut off when it's not.

Would it not be simpler (and cheaper) to have a set-up like that when a compressor fridge is used in a campervan? I’m thinking of a leisure battery of, say, 110 Ah, connected to the vehicle’s charging system through a split-charge relay. Once the engine is going, the relay kicks in and allows charge to the leisure battery (potentially much more than 10A, so don’t use tbe ciggy socket circuit). When the engine stops, the relay disconnects the leisure battery and fridge from the car’s battery. As the fridge is used, only the leisure battery is discharged - and your fridge auto-disconnects, you say, when that battery gets low. Typically, a campervan (also using lights, waterpump, TV etc) can go for a couple of days on the 110 Ah battery.

The title “STY TD140” is used in this Swedish advert, and the details do then confirm it as a “Style” model, with the 2-litre 190 psi diesel engine. (I found - isn’t Google wonderful - that “HK” is the Swedish for horsepower: hästkrafter.)

No, that would be confusing! Inside a left hand drive car, the driver is … “driving on the left” (of the car). Skoda are right to refer to where the traffic is, not where the driver is.

You, and your car are part of the traffic. Some of the traffic is going the same way as you, some is going the other way. It’s all “traffic”, and it’s all (in Cyprus) on the left.

Much now changed: it’s just been announced that even UK residents, double vaccinated in the UK, WILL be required to quarantine at home for 10 ten upon return to the UK, if travelling from or via France.

Cut the bushes?

The “cargo elements” are flat plastic strips, hinged in the middle, with velcro along one long edge. They can be folded to make two “corners”, so you can, for example, put them at the corners of a box in the boot, and stop it sliding around.

MK–83 - did you try putting the fob on the wing mirror and not waiting at all, before trying the door? Mine releases the door only if the keys are fairly near the handle (nearer than the wing mirror).

I think there’s some confusion here. Kodiaqs do have plastic “curry hooks” on the side panels, which may or not be two per side and slideable, but isn't the OP talking about the fitment of metal RAILS to the boot floor (which I remember as an option), that could be used with bars to form blocking/holding barriers, across the boot floor?

It'll be dearer to spec up an SE to SEL standard in two ways: up front, the individual extras will cost more than the package. Then, at trade-in time, the offer will be based on a SE (not an SEL), with only a slight uplift for all the extras. (That also applies to a leased car, as likely future trade-in value is taken into account in the monthly payments.) Check out, at a dealer's, the boot sizes 7-seat vs 5-seat, as Kenny R says. If the side-to-side and front-to-back measurements are most important to you, the 7-seat will be just as good (and will provide a flatter floor, making it easier to load long items). If it's the overall total volume that matters - perhaps because you often want to load a large number of small items - then the 5-seat does give more volume, in the well where the rearmost seats would otherwise be fitted.

Financially, yes. But it tells you absolutely nothing about what effect different speeds and driving styles have, in your car. By monitoring the results for individual journeys, I’ve learned a lot about what my car “likes”. For example, where the Superb 1.6 diesel was not much more thirsty at 70 than at 65, the Kodiaq 1.4 petrol noticeably is.

I didn’t take a pic, but yesterday on a 24-mile trip on busy motorway, and then to central Wolverhampton, mine (1.4 litre petrol DSG) read 45.8 mpg.