Steviedakota

Not a costly item to replace or difficult to do. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5e0959857whs-window-control-switch-skoda-24543.html

Same here!

Was cleaning the car earlier and noticed a build up of crud on rear inside wheel arches, around the edge of the wheel arch. Anyone whos owned an 90's BMW will be familiar with rust rot around the wheel arch edges, caused by the same type of build up. Given how thin the sheet metal is on these cars I'd say it's a case of not if, but when. I'll be powerhousing in there and making sure to clear it all out.

As above, common issue and nothing to be concerned about. When you see fish in there start to worry.

Drivers side handle has started needing a bit of a yank to release, the handle pull has gone a bit stiff, a pity as all the others have that nice gentle pull to open. Anyone had this? Going to spray some GT85 in there see it it helps. There is a small black plastic cover on the inside of the door, the one that rotates a bit, any idea how to remove this to spray some lube in there?

If I missed one thing about the previous 5 series it was the car mats, lovely, deep cut pile units. The Skoda Matt's are very average. So ordered a premier set from carmats UK, hoping they would be better, being a bit skeptical about fit. Online reviews were good so rolled the dice. Well I am delighted with them, deeper cut pile, very substantial, and the fit and cut is 100%, press down fittings are perfect too. At €40 with free delivery they are far better, and cheaper than Skoda mats. Also no Superb name which j always thought was a bit tacky. Would highly recommend.

I know this is a common one so hoping someone can advise as to the procedure for removing the top leather portion to address the creaks inside?

Anyone know how to do this? I can see the plastic screw at the bottom of the door that needs to be turned 90 degrees. I removed the window switch expecting to see some screw in there but there is nothing visible. I also can't see any access around the door handle that might reveal a screw. Totally stumped.

My car is very quiet, but it can always be quieter! So just finished one of the rear wheel arches with one layer of silent coat, then another layer of 5mm closed cell foam. This is an easy job really: Wheel off Remove various torx bolts, some are a bit more awkward than others but they all come out easily. Clean with alcohol then set about the insulation. I stayed away from the dirty area of bodywork around the shock that the liner leaves exposed as I didn't want crud building up on the insulation. Also added some to the liner itself. While it was all exposed I applied some rust treatment (blue coating in pic) to the dust shield and various corroding bolts. Liner on and job done. About 1.5 hours not rushing things. Will do the other side when time permits.