anewman

Yep only thing you need on the stereo is RCA pre-outs for the sub (OE head units usually don't have those.)

Can sometimes pick up sub and amp combos quite cheap on ebay. People will list with a low start bid as collect only, and so this means only people prepared to travel there will bid - and often those listings will receive few/no bids. The main expense then is a kit to wire it in if no cables provided in the deal.

Head unit + subwoofer with amp + front speakers + amp for front speakers + sound deadening in front doors (in order of importance)

It won't start if the crank sensor is faulty, so it could be it's finally given out.

My response to that would be there's no law against getting up to the speed limit faster than the next car Even in my lowly 1.4mpi I can usually out accelerate most other cars on the road (guessing they're too scared to put their pedal to the floor), I get to the speed limit, shortly after they in their BMW etc sail past breaking the limit as I'm already at the limit. Even though they are overtaking me I feel victorious because I got up to speed faster Routinely breaking the speed limit and then trying to avoid being caught, braking on sight of a police car etc, is a mugs game if you ask me Plus there's nothing to say a car must be used on the public highway, go to track days etc and max out your car if you can.

ebay

In terms of power up hill is it worse than before timing chain change? It could be the chain was installed incorrectly. See this post for details of similar symptoms and the cure http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/131845-idle-power-problem-14-mpi/ At 140k miles the engine is nowhere near the end of its useful life if it has had regular oil changes. Oil light could be oil pressure switch. OTOH it could be an issue with the oil pump - this is disturbed when the timing chain is replaced as it is driven by that part of the engine.

If the engine is noisy (rattle/clatter from front left of engine as you face it) at that mileage the timing chain probably needs replacing, and could explain lack of power. It is possible the oil light is the oil pressure switch, assuming oil has been changed within last 10,000 miles/few years.

If you've driven it through that suspect water ingress may caused your issues. Would try cleaning the connectors with electrical contact cleaner. Give a good spray and connect, disconnect, and reconnect a few times to help remove any corossion. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Felicia-Favorit-Crankshaft-speed-position-sensor-/180728283160?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a143ec018 would fit. The one already fitted should have a lead coming from it. Unplug that and the lead left in the car plugs into the top of this. I suspect if you ordered one from a factor you'd get this type anyway.

I keep seeing this car where I live http://www.walesonline.co.uk/news/need-to-read/2011/07/17/new-york-cop-car-is-big-apple-of-gerrys-eye-91466-29067425/ which I'd have thought was illegal due to words Police and the lights on top.

To be fair to the MPI the engine is based on a rather old design - so does not really need anything particularly exotic like the more modern ones and diesels do. I currently have Shell Helix 5w-40 fully synthetic in, which I found for £10. Had it in there a while and it doesn't appear to have used a single drop of oil. Have previously used 10w-40 semi synthetic Gulf Tec Plus, which I think is currently about £10 a 4l can in Home Bargains. Gone up in price but still quite good value. I'd personally stick to 10w-40 or 5w-40 (likely to cost more).

The holes are right at the very bottom and small. Just stick a small screw driver or your key in there and give a little wiggle there's 2/3 in total.

Hmmm I used to live in Leeds, I too am curious, lol. A quick Google shows not far from Armley Gyratory/Elland Rd.

Who'd have thought they'd ever have used a 1.4mpi?!

Since the OP is a good looking young lady and doesn't appear to be a chav, my answer is no it definitely won't fit

There's these amazing things that prevent you from getting any speeding tickets whatsoever. What's even more amazing is they're in plain view and you can see them as you drive along. What they are is these circles by the side of the road. Some are red circles with a white centre and numbers inside, the others are white circles with a black slash through. If you don't drive any faster than the number in the circles, or when the white with black slash one is shown 60mph on single carriageway, 70mph motorway/dual carriageway - you never get a speeding ticket. Just one of the amazing discoveries I have made on Britain's roads. See examples below

Not if you fit the stereo properly. If you haven't a clue and fix the blue bit stereo side to the blue cable in the car is when the problems happen. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAG-COM-USB-Diagnostic-Cable-409-1-OBD2-II-KKL-Lead-/170683012608?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item27bd801600 should work but only thing is with free version you won't be able to do the things you want, and the paid version of the software is something like £100. You also have to fiddle around installing drivers with these cables. If anyone says their cheapie cable didn't work, either they installed their aftermarket stereo wrong, or they don't know what drivers are

http://www.thetradepartsspecialists.co.uk/ seem to focus on supplying trade only. Would joe public be turned away?

That pic makes it more clear. Crikey, even if someone tried off-roading in a muddy field I wouldn't have thought it would get that mucky in the engine bay. Really stuck to explain possible causes for mud. Practical joke? Flood damage? The black stuff under the bonnet is held on with some clips/screws and can be binned. It's really only there as sound proofing.

Looks exactly the same as my Pioneer stereo loom. The one labelled System Remote Control is where it goes. You may want to crimp a male bullet connector to the booster so you can just plug it in. Make sure there is no connection to the top right blue wire.

The storage thing under the stereo simply pulls out once the stereo is removed. You may be able to fit the box of tricks somewhere above the glovebox. I'd personally go for a head unit with integrated ipod functionality instead of an add on kit.

Only issue you might come across is the LED's will light dimly when meant to be off. Only really noticeable in the dark. The answer is to solder a resistor of the appropriate type to the back of the festoon bulb - but I always forget which type of resistor is best. That's only if it bothers you though, it should be dimmer than the dash even on the lowest setting so not much of a distraction.

Suggest upgrade path.... New headunit. If what you're after is better low-end/bass reproduction (and I don't necessarily mean boy racer thump thump thump thump playing drum n' bass) get a subwoofer with amp - check ebay as they can often be cheap if someone starts one at 99p for collection only. From here the next logical step is component speakers and an amp. A 4 channel amp can power both front speakers and subwoofer with one channel for each front, and two in bridged for the sub.

I'd definitely upgrade the speaker cable from the OEM stuff if installing an amp. It's far easier to pass wire through to door than mess about connecting to back of stereo etc. Regards power cables, lots of talk of using welding cable over on ICE forums, as power cable. Even a 50w RMS amp will be better than the 50w RMS onboard a headunit.