Phil-E

In some markets the new cars with 1.4 TSI get an 8 speed torque converter. That would also be interesting to try.

The 7 speed DSG has a 12v driven oil pump unlike the 6 speed which is driven directly from the input into the gearbox. So if the battery isn't able to output the required amps to run the pump (it's connected via a 30amp fuse!) then it can cause issues.

Yeah that defenitely plays a role in it. Like I say it was probably in my case down to the much wider tyres and extra nose weight. And just a side note FYI the diesel Saabs and V6 turbo got the more robust 6 speed from Aisin Warner. But yes still a torque converter auto. But could lock up the torque converter in any gear. So in manual mode once the car was rolling it would lock up the torque converter so it was great fun to drive with that big lump of torque. I'm starting to think its the 7 speed DSG's eagerness to get the clutch engaged that can catch me out sometimes. My 6 speed DSG was much more forgiving.

I have to say I also find those comments very close to being insulting (whether intentional or not). I find it insulting that you're suggesting n we don't know how to drive and at no time was it suggested that I (or we) drive round everywhere just blindly stabbing the throttle to the floor. I know how to control my vehicle and it's very rare I drive in such a manner that the wheels are spinning... because, unlike you suggest I do have a connection between my brain and my foot. The observation was merely that in my Saab I could just floor it from a standing start and it would just shoot forwards without any drama. The point being that it should in theory with having much more power and torque be much easier to break traction... whereas in actual fact it's far easier in the lower powered (albeit lighter) Skoda. Aad even when I've been careful in the Skoda it has still caught me out a couple of times and broken traction.

Like I said. A knife does the trick. Just a standard butter knife. Just push in down the inner side of the DRL and lever it towards the light and it just unclips and pops out.

Actually you don't even need to remove that cover. I simply slide a thin knife down the side (the inner side closest to the centre of the car) and release the clip. Takes a few seconds.

I have to agree here. My previous car (also a Saab but a 9-3 Convertible with 240bhp, 490nm of torque and was FWD with an auto gearbox) was also much less prone to wheel spin and I could, most of the time, floor it while setting off with minimal or zero wheel spin. My current 1.4 TSI DSG will light up the tyres pretty much every time if I just floor it though. But then the Saab weighed an extra 400kg!! It also had wider tyres (235 Vs 205) which no doubt makes a difference too.

We were over in the UK last month. And I had a need to use one in York while I was there. Thankfully the app I use in Germany was also compatible (Tier - which means animal in German). After some faffing about (had to add a UK credit card to pay in pounds and also had to scan in my driving license!) I was on my way... and was shocked to find the bloody things are restricted to a measly 8mph! Over here they are limited to 20kph (12,5mph) so 8mph felt painfully slow and actually dangerous trying to navigate the crap cycle routes mainly shared with other road users. Also annoying that they can only be parked it designated parking areas (which there were very few of). And I've used the ones over here a few times and they have no problem pulling all 108kg of me up hills without loosing too much speed.

It still needs to be based on the same platform. So the newest you could fit woul still have to be from a MK2 Octavia. Nothing from the the MK3 will fit.

If you're wanting to keep it OEM but with Android Auto and Carplay then have a look at the RCD330+. I think it's what you're looking for 😁👍

I've read and heard that older naturally aspirated engines don't tend to like it so much and they suffer the most in terms of an MPG drop. But I believe ethanol is good for turbo engines as it can reduce knock. I've been using it in my car for over a year (since I got it) and also tried a couple of tanks of E5 but noticed zero difference in performance or MPG.

I'm pretty sure the originals are 4,500K. I'd avoid cheap non-brand ones. You can get original Osram for around 30 to 40 per bulb these days. Are your bulbs failing or already gone?

I remember the Bridgestones on my previous Octavia being super noisy and I got rid of them. As for all season tyres, I can fully recommend the Hankooks (I have the Kinergy 4S 2). They provide brilliant and reassuring grip in all conditions. Nice and quite. Still good fuel economy. And perform very well in snow and ice.

I've done a good 6000km on them by now across all sorts of roads and terrains. Just came back from a trip across Holland, France and to the UK. There were some bumpy and rough roads on the way and I can't say I've noticed the tyres being any louder than any others I've had over the years. In fact I'd say they're perfectly acceptable and the noise level in the car is good and we're able to hold conversations and have music on quietly etc. They're still looking like new but I suppose they should still do after only so few KMs.

Yeah they do have a slight ticking sound to them. I believe it's due to the high pressure fuel pump. It's driven from the camshaft.

The 1.4 TSI has decent torque low down so is quite happy to cruise in a higher gear. My DSG will shift into 6th at around 50kmh.

Unlikely. But probably also not needed. The tiptronic is a standard torque converter automatic so provides continuous drive while D is engaged so won't really roll back much unless on a very steep hill. The MPG will be OK... but I wouldn't be expecting anything much over 40mpg. It's an OK engines (efficiency wise) paired to an OK gearbox (that's less efficient than a manual or DSG). But it's a good gearbox. May need an oil and filter change at some point. The only thing that concerns me is you describing the engine as being noisy/flappy. This could potentially be timing chain related. Did you manage to start it from cold?

If you can't even find the spark plugs should you be going near them? As above. Remove the engine cover and you'll see the coilpacks. They sit under the big electrical connectors.

Yeah I'm sure there must be some info on it. I just know the FM antennas require this power source as they are active. But I'm yet to have a VAG car with a factory DAB antenna so my knowledge is limited.

The only thing that my prevent it from working is if perhaps the built in DAB antenna is an active one and requires power or receives its power via the aerial cable (phantom power I've heard it referred to).

With regards to DAB it is a seperate USB DAB dongle you need. I bought a cheap one from ebay that said it was compatible with Android and it worked no problems. As for the antenna they come with one of thos crappy windscreen mounts but it didn't work at all for me. I also have GPS reception problems as I believe I have the special heat refelctive screen. I'm not sure how it is on the MK3 but on the MK2 estate there is an antenna built into the rear side window. You can swap out the amplifier tha sits back there for a passive one and then a splitter behind the stereo that spilts out the DAB and FM signals. With this solution there's no need to swap the roof antenna and I've just come back from holiday via Belgium, Holland, France and the UK and the signal (after doing a new scan in each country of course) was rock solid. Only exprienced a couple of short dropouts on the hilly roads between Bridlington and Whitby.

So things are getting confused here as now a 6 speed DSG has been thrown into the mix. The 7 speed uses dry clutches which are much more like a standard clutch. Using clutch forks being operated by the mechatronics. While stationary with your foot on the brake in D or while using auto hold the clutches are completely disengaged and there is no drive being applied (from the engine or motor). The 6 speed on the other hand uses multi-plate wet clutches. These operate in a completely different way to the dry clutches. They are made up of multiple plates and oil pressure is applied to press the plates together. Even without pressure being applied there is always some friction between the plates. So even sat on the brake in D there is a very small amount of drive being applied. But it's still not doing any harm. They're designed to cope with this. Hence why they are oil cooled/lubricated and why they have a 40k mile oil change interval.

I doubt it down to the fuel. I only use standard 95 Unleaded E10 and have done for over a year. Idle is rock solid and it's hard to tell the engine is even running while sat at lights etc. I also saw something about that engine warm up while playing with VCDS. I also saw some option about whether to keep the engine running a bit warmer or cooler. Might have a look about changing them for winter. We had temps down to -18c last winter.

Does it also have the larger facelift mirrors?

Yes they're 16mm. I changed mine a few weeks back. I used a deep 16mm multi spline socket with extension bar onto my torque wrench. Got them straight out without any problems.