Phil-E

I can also confirm that's it's an easy engine service. Changed the oil, filter and spark plugs a couple weeks ago. Didn't have to remove the under body cover as the drain is accessible. So jacked the car up, drained oil, unscrewed filter (not a single drop of oil came out so no mess), new filter in and new oil and was done with the oil change in about 20 mins. The spark plugs were also easier than anticipated. Removed the cover, popped open the wiring clips, pulled the coils out with a screwdriver and whipped out the old plugs and put the new in. I must say it seems to run even better with the new plugs. Has a bit more grunt lower down while just pootling around. And the estimated range is showing more than it usually does (just over 800km or 500 miles) with just doing short local runs.

I had a "oh stuff it" moment the other day. Needed a 10l top-up and seeing how how the prices are at the moment I just stuck E10 in again. I do fixed interval servicing myself anyway so I don't think that will be a problem. Will be interesting to see if it makes any noticeable difference for you.

I'd go for a cheaper place. I've had mine done at Kwik Fit in the past and no problems on my Octavia. They basically just hook it up to a machine and it does all the pressure testing and everything. They look up the vehicle to see how much gas and lubricant it needs and fill it up after vacuuming all the old stuff out. The same machine will likely be used at the dealer. Just had my 1.4 TSI Aircon re-gassed too. Took it to the German equivalent of Kwik Fit and it's blowing ice cold again. Haven't been done since new (2012 car).

Correct. And as above. The Mechatronics (including the ECU part) is just one part according to VW/Skoda. So if one part fails then the whole unit is replaced (officially). So it should be covered. Since regardless of what has failed inside it, it's still a complete unit classed as an ECU.

The above also includes "modulator valves, hydraulic gear shift governors, internal valve blocks and servos, and oil pumps". All of these things are contained within the mechatronics unit. And according to VW the mechatronics is a single part and is just swapped out as a complete unit (they don't do repairs to them).

I changed the oil on my 1.4 TSI the other day. Since it only has a very small under engine cover that doesn't cover the sump plug then I decided to drain the oil. Was the easiest oil and filter changed I'd ever done. Filter is also super accessible and not a single drop of oil came out when I unscrewed it. Used Mannol oil and Mann oil filter. My previous Saab 1.9 TTiD was a bloody nightmare. Filter was on the back left corner and far down and had a stupid drain hole that you had to try and attach a hose to drain the excess oil out but it never seem to work and I always ended up making a horrible mess!

Is it definitely the cluster at fault? I assume you've had some diagnostics done on the car?

I'd put the question to them of what and wasn't included under "Automatic Gearboxes". The mechatronics is just a combined computer controller and solenoid/actuator unit. A standard automatic gearbox usually has the same thing too. I'd say unless the wording explicitly excludes gearbox control units etc then they should cover it. Do you not have a copy of the full terms of the warranty?

The best thing is to start the car, let it idle for a few seconds and then drive immediately off but driving gently until it's warmed up. Leaving a car idling for long periods actually increases wear and takes a long long time to warm up especially on a diesel. In fact a diesel is likely never able to get up to temperature by just idling.

I wonder if this is the same issue I had when I fitted a Columbus to my 57 plate (MY2008) Octavia with PDC. The pre-fl PDC uses a different protocol to the FL and it didn't show up on stereo. It wasn't until I fitted a Polar FIS that it shows the distance display on the stereo.

Might be useful to give us all the details of your car. Since the Bluetooth modules vary in their functionality, compatibility and how they are controlled. So we'd need to know the age of the car, what stereo it has, which instrument cluster it has and whether or not you have a multi function steering wheel.

Hello from the same side of the ocean (Germany) 😁👍

The best (safest and only legal) way to get it tested is to take it to a garage. They can first do a leak test and if the system is sealed it may just need topping up. It's not a DIY Job.

That's the compressor...

What do you mean by "A/C unit"? The A/C isn't one single unit. It is made up of many components.

If it has leaked out of the breather on the top then it's most likely the accumulator that's cracked. And yes VCDS (or something capable of accessing and controlling the DSG controller) is required. Not sure if it's needed if the mechatronics is to be repaired though.

Try and have a look at the top of the gearbox towards to right hand side. Underneath the starter motor wiring should be a small black breather. Look for signs of a leak coming from there. Is the fluid green?

Is that 370 including fitting? I really wouldn't bother with a used one. Unless you don't plan to keep the car long term.

You need a proper diagnostics carrying out. It could be one of several issues. There's a fairly common problem where the accumulator splits causing a loss of pressure and the mechatronics not being able to engage gears or operate the clutches anymore. This is a pretty easy fix and there a kit available with new seals, accumulator and filter etc. It could also be that the clutches are shot. Or maybe the box has leaked into the mechatronics or vice versa. Or worst case is the electronics have burnt out and the mechatronics needs replacing.

Does it also not have the under bonnet dampening?

Either you're driving the car wrong, only doing short journeys or there's a fault with the engine causing it to block prematurely.

He says to just message him via Facebook 👍 https://www.facebook.com/jason.simons.16

The actual gearbox quantity and the drain quantity can vary. But I'd be surprised on a manual that this would differ by nearly a litre. It's usually torque converter autos where a lot of oil stays in the torque converter. I think you need to find out what should be drained out and refilled. And as for "sealed for life"... I really don't agree with this. I've always changed gearbox oil on my cars and it's always been horrible and black!

I'm not sure if he's still active on here but I'll drop him a WhatsApp with a screenshot and see if he can get in touch 👍

I'd be thinking along the lines of an ignition coil perhaps. When we're the plugs last changed?