agedbriar

Is the Lights setting item missing in your Car Settings infotainment section ?

On my 2019 I can set the halogen lights' height on the infotainment: Car > Settings > Lights

At first it seemed too empty looking, but after a while it started to grow on me... I'd certainly redo the test on a picture taken in the open, in soft light.

You should be banned from this forum for that! 🙂

On mine, it's also printed on the label affixed to the B pillar, driver side.

Those dips are proof of how careful one must be when measuring the at-rest battery voltage to check its State Of Charge.

In Slovenia, the dealer hands the homologation certificate over to the first owner and we are supposed to have it along when driving. It lists all the approved rim/tyre sizes.

I'm happy with 17" wheels for summer and 16" for winter tyres. Mind that 16" rims require low-profile balancing weights, the front brakes are so close.

That's expected, but did you find any decrease in the at rest voltage dropping rate? Also, do you have KESSY, which seems to be to main load at rest?

Well, yes, this is the line I have been thinking along. But, what comprises the level above which the system will charge the battery only if it can do it in the so called regenerative mode? Is it a definite % of SOC or a given amount of energy stored? If it's the % of SOC, a bigger battery of the same technology will start the resting period from the same voltage as the current one, but will drop to the critical 12.4 V later, which is my goal. (If this was the case, though, the system would only require the technology input, wouldn't care about nominal capacity.) If it's the given amount of energy stored, a bigger battery of the same technology will stop being charged at a lower SOC, the battery will start the resting period from a lower voltage than the current one, which might even shorten the time to 12.4 V. In this case it would be better if the system didn't know that there is a bigger battery installed.

The damages caused by deep discharge and resting the battery below 12.4 V are different. Repeated deep discharges cause plate distorsion which with time lead to an internal short-circuit and the unexpected battery breakdown, most likely on the road. This isn't my current topic. Letting the battery rest below 12.4 V leads to sulfation, which gradually reduces the active metallic lead available for energy storage (i.e. battery capacity) and reduces the battery charging speed. The battery capacity loss is felt upon starting the engine, preventing on the road mishaps. EFB batteries are no more sulfation resistant than conventional ones (or maybe just "somewhat", to cite the Varta representative).

Although it may seem so, I do not. 🙂 I'm wondering if, by replacing the battery (when the current one is depleted) with a bigger one without telling the system that there is now a bigger one installed, I might avoid battery sulfation without external charging between trips.

That's exactly what I think might help me. I don't want the system to restrict charging even more on account of the higher capacity of the new battery. My problem is not the SOC in terms of amount of available energy. The battery has never let me down upon starting the engine. My issue is the resting voltage dropping early to 12.4 V, which induces sulfation. That's what I strive to prevent. Thanks for the table Kenny, I saved it. Interesting the transition at 80% > 70% SOC.

My driving and land conditions are such, that even with the Start-Stop feature disabled, I usually return home with the battery less than fully charged, thanks to the algorithm that tries to avoid consuming extra fuel for charging when the latter isn't strictly necessary and my drive home is mostly uphill. As I make a point of not letting the battery rest at less than 12.4 V, in order to prevent sulfation, I often find myself charging the battery with my external charger between the infrequent trips. I'm wondering. If I replace the original 58Ah EFB with a, say, 70Ah EFB/AGM without updating the battery specs in the car's database, will the battery voltage take longer to drop to 12,4V after a typical trip? Could the wrong battery specs in the database have any other ill effect besides the Start-Stop not activating exactly as designed to?

Received yesterday this Battery Guard. I connected it to the always live cigarette lighter port and its voltage reading matches the one from my recently re-calibrated multimeter (taken off the battery posts) to the 4th digit. Kudos for that. https://www.ebay.de/itm/264818813144?hash=item3da86e68d8:g:rqAAAOSwrhJlSgIo&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8PIM5NwxZWKzbtRZv13uB66knIUacH9wr9bhEcvFJhg06tI94AEvMxkXmTGKu7F0hn5S4ZFFi8btQS4XWqUUv%2BH37nnRRre8IXa5HoFRDv34P46Ih69z2k514nbov1MlKWJTqPUGAntWKYpESUTKPff8cLM4Vr9qzLBzsZWiF3R%2Fiee85oLvcMbXWHbUKswl1yyWP7totkeUhqo3O0uTp6BYrnR20D6gHq5w5NxcB%2FQhMbkzxwjqdeasgaDTuOi154WFD4QJqrqNc%2FybTMvb%2FHYNThF4d38yUwWzXY4kYn076Ax0hSeiGJrbtyo0%2BlsFcA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMgLuwsfli Indeed, the negative battery pole connector is engineered so that it's practically impossible to permanently connect anything more to it. It's obviously meant to divert the user to the mass post behind the battery (as per user manual).