wilsonian

Bought mine brand new back in 2007 - was looking at a second hand 56 plate when I heard about the SE coming out. As I like blue as a colour I opted to spend the extra few grand and get one. I love it but it's currently testing me with faults.... :(

OK lets work on the fact you have a KKK (which you might but more likely) - Darkside have them at £600 for a reconditioned one (i think) while TPS quoted us something like £1200 and ECP have them for £800 - you can get the cores on their own for around £140 but I haven't a clue about turbos and didn't want to mess about so sending it away was the best option. The chap who I dealt with offered me a Garret instead for an extra £100 (so around £450 with vat). but the issues with the EGR pipe and not wanting to delete it (as I've heard it can be some trouble with a BLT engine) I decided just for the KKK again. If your turbo has died you need to clean ALL the pipes including the intercooler. When cleaning, don't hit your intercooler with a pressure washer as it ruined mine and I had to get a new one from ECP (around £80 using a discount code).Reason for cleaning is you'll find small flakes of metal from the old turbo. If they get sucked into either the engine or the new turbo it's night night for that part. Note: My turbo was repaired for £340 not replaced so be prepared to have it off the road for a few days if you choose this route. Personally I'd avoid just buying a 2nd hand unit from a breakers as you don't know how loved or un-loved it's been.

would it also explain the second fault thats being reported?

forgive my ignorance but is this the sensor thats above the gear box thats held with a single screw?

Depending on the age of the car it could be a KKK or a garet. I recently had a KKK fail on me with no smoke. Unfortunately you need to get under the car and have a look and whats gone. On the KKK it has a small stamped plate which will have the model number - best take a photo of it as you need the complete model number. I was also advised that the KKK and garett have different EGR pipes so I opted to stay with the factory fitted KKK and sent it off to be repaired. they ended up putting a new core in and cleaned everything up. came back with new garaskets as well. that was around £340 inc VAT.

Hello, So we've finished replacing the turbo and reconnected everything back up, The engine seems to run OK while standing and for a few days operated fine. However now the car has an intermittent fault. Some times when the engine is at around 3-3.5krpm we get a flashing glow plug symbol, the EML comes on and the car shudders power is lost (like we've hit a limiter). The first time it did this we couldn't get over 2.5krpm however when it happened again the car will go over 2.5 but starts shuddering at around 3.5krpm. I've put VAG com on it and it's reporting the following faults: Address 01: Engine Labels: 038-906-019-ASZ.lbl Part No: 038 906 019 NJ Component: 1,9l R4 EDC G000SG 7331 Coding: 00102 Shop #: WSC 13765 VCID: 6CDCC9CA1C884B2103-4B18 TMBWU46YX74167410 SKZ7Z0G4040882 1 Fault Found: 16705 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28) P0321 - 35-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent Readiness: 1 1 0 0 0 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 6R0-907-37x-ASR80.lbl Part No SW: 6Q0 907 379 AG HW: 6Q0 907 379 AG Component: MABS 8.0 front H05 0002 Revision: 00000000 Serial number: 00000000000000 Coding: 0002229 Shop #: WSC 13765 790 00000 VCID: 020087725E0CAD51D9-515A 1 Fault Found: 01314 - Engine Control Module 013 - Check DTC Memory - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00101101 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 9 Mileage: 172748 km Time Indication: 0 Any ideas?

I've ran 215/40/17 on mine for a while and haven't had any major issues.

As some one who is currently rebuilding the back of the engine and cleaning everything up I think a catch should be fitted to all diesel cars.

I did this on my door to and so far so good ;) Just take your time cleaning off the old sealant if either an ex owner or skoda have smothered it.

it can take some time as you need to remove the internal panel which involves having the glass removed from the carrier. The internal panel is either screwed on or pot riveted which means you have to drill them out and either put new ones in on reviet threads for screws. it's a fiddily job but one that can be done on the drive in good weather. http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/193291-remove-and-repair-deadlocked-rear-door/

I've had this issue and it turned out to be the lock mech thats in the door. My advice is to replace it for the exact same type. I replaced my faulty one with a unit that Skoda claimed was a newer replacement however when I unlocked the drivers door (so a single press of the key fobe) it would unlock the passenger door as well. Not a huge deal as it would at least lock when dead locking it but I ended up getting a second hand unit from a scrap yard off a newer polo but the code was the same. Also the units for something like a 02 plate fabia are completely different to a 06 plate vRS so it's best to have a look first.

this usually highlights issues with the door seals. Its a poor design by VAG and something the fabia (both MK1&2 that I have exprienced so far) has trouble with. If you want to try and "solve" the problem then I'd suggest search on here as there are a few guides.

So today we took the air intake off the turbo and found the spline had split in two off the shaft. Looks like the comments of a jammed turbo are right....

I would double check the fuses. I had a similar issue and it was one of the 3 fuses that control it.

I second Puddy's comment. If you're on standard droplinks it could be catching.

Anyone got a copy of the pdf they can repost?

Well it looks like I'm going to spend next weekend removing the turbo to inspect it. I haven't found any guides yet (besides the haynes) - any advice?

One major concern for me is I've found very small bits of metal in the inercooler pipes. Also Silly question time - when "off" will the main EGR valve (that you can clearly see if the pipe is removed) stay open or should this close?

I would call it smoke not steam. Could a broken turbo send the exhaust gas back into the air inlet thus smothering the engine causing it to die?

So last night while moving in slow traffic the engine cut out and failed to restart I got no dash warning lights. When recovered the mech thought it was a blocked fuel line and just loaded me up and took me home. This morning we've swapped out the fuel filter and can see fuel being pumped into the filter fine. The starter motor is trying to start the engine but it fails to fire up. VAG-COM doesn't show any errors logged and you can hear the fuel pump pressuriing when you turn the key. Has anyone got any ideas as to what could be casuing the failure to start?

Have to say it might be the way you drive. I do around 50 miles a day and get around the same 320 to a tank (to the light popping on). I know I know I have a heavy foot. If I do a cruise control M'day drive I can get over 420 to a tank - I might have a slight boost leak - not sure but the car is standard except for the 17" with 40 v12's fitted.

not sure what struts you have but I had to replace mine a while back and I bought factory rated ones, I was able to push these down with no trouble and pop them into position.

Sounds like a possible pump issue. Have you checked your fluid levels? (to do so you need to remove the battery and air intake system - silly i know!)

Double check the fluid levels. If the racks seals have failed they fill the gaiters and if the gaiters are good you don't notice the drop until the pump starts moaning.

I think you have to remove the entire subframe to remove the anti roll bar. There are 4 extra bolts the the subframe that hold the steering rack to it. Remove these then suspend the rack in its position. once the frame is off it's easier to replace the console bushes while it's off the car. Also I suggest having a friend to the help you as the sub frame is weighty.