wilsonian

I normally use a hosting site like Imgur

have you got a read ARB fitted? Not sure what a "New ap 25mm kit" is so I'm sorry if this is it...

Hello, So my fabia vRS SE has been giving me alot of headaches recently (mainly around the steering rack and ECP lack of a decent supplier). Because of this it's got me thinking that I've had this car since new and I'm wondering what I should be looking out for. I've read that turbo's can give people trouble around this mileage and also clutches (which mine is pretty low on the pedal). The car is serviced as and when the light pops up and the cam belt was replaced around 65k (along with the water pump). So besides the usual service parts what else is best to do?

Are both sides adjustable when it comes to doing the tracking? My father seems to think one side should be fixed.

Go for the 312mm setup. I got miine from a seller on ebay, the whole set was £250 which I admit isn't the cheapest around but the calipers and mounts were painted red and refurbished with a warrenty. The discs and pads were all new as well. Fitting was easy but the OEM lines are a little snug so becareful.

Sounds like a possible EGR related issue but if it's been deleted I'm not too sure. Do you have access to vagcom? see if any error codes are popping up.

Can't believe they only gave you an advisory for the PAS leak. They failed mine for the same thing which caused e a week of emergency holidays off work while I got it sorted...

I haven't done much myself but I do have 312mm front brakes and would recommend them to any vRS driver. IMHO I would get the clutch done first then FMIC.

I'm going to speak to another dealership to see what they say. I called Skoda UK and they said it's up to the dealer and not them...

ahh many thanks!

Sorry to drag this up but the model codes 028 131 547 B doesn't show up a parts site. is it listed under a different code?

How would you fail a battery? What are the tolerance levels?

Strange as I've been getting a low voltage warning error intermittently while driving. I have recently replaced my rack (due to leaking seals) but I thought it would be down to the G250 sensor acting up. Now after reading a few posts I'm wondering if I've disturbed some thing on the battery fuse block (as accessing the fluid top up requires the unit out). The battery was replaced earlier this year and hasn't given me any issues until the new rack went in.

I work opposite awesome and their always busy - haven't heard anything bad of them.

I was getting this a while back it turned out to be a failed ball joint. TBH I was only getting a noise while turning over uneven ground. Removing the sub frame isn't that much trouble and it's alot easier to work on the items like wishbone bushes and the anti-roll bar bushes. Only issue you'll have is having to support the steering rack while the unit is out.

I've had powerflex bushes for around 4 years now (i think) and they can become noisy. While I had the sub frame off to replace my rack I also removed the wishbones, cleaned everything up and put new grease on all parts. Nice and quiet but this is the 3rd time I've had to re-grease them.

Sent u a PM regarding the steering angle sensor. :-)

Sorry to drag this up but did u ever resolve this fault?

Hello, I recently replaced my rack for a refurbished unit from Euro Car Parts. Since then I've been getting an intermittent warning light on my dash when taking roundabouts (or motorway slip roads with a bend) and the steering going into "limp home" mode which runs very heavy. After scanning the car it reported a fault with the G250 sensor "Low voltage" (I can't remember the exact wording). The sensor came off my other rack and is a brown metal connector. When we removed it we were very careful not to get any dirt etc onto the unit. Does anyone know if the rack it's self could cause this fault? I wouldn't have thought we would need a new sensor as well..

Your lucky you got so long out of it. Mine did it after 4 years and claybank dealership fobbed me off...

Ahh yeah forgot about those sections

The under tray doesn't use these, however I know the heat shield around the exhaust does and when their "throw" the rattle can be annoying,

OK I've just done this last weekend and I'll have to do it again next week thanks to eurocar parts... You can do it on the drive with a helper as the sub frame is heavy. Also the higher the car is the better. When you get the rack check it lines up with your current rack. If the steering pinion is off you'll have to reset the steering wheel as well. Turns out this isn't a problem, the Audi A2 uses the same rack but is set differently. EuroCar parts stock them as the same serial number. Before you order ur rack check which coloured terminal connector you have. Mine was brown but they could be white or black as well. Brown and black connectors are one style of rack while the white is another. It took me around 6 hours but included rebuilding my wishbones with fresh grease.

Mainly the common faults. I've own mine from new and these are the issues I've had: Door leaks on rear doors. Replacement Console bushes (These are the wishbone rear bushes at the front of the car). Its hard to check with the car on the ground. Passenger side door lock is on it's way out - makes a noise when moving Alternator power cable snapped, car might fail to start (even turn over the engine). Turbo seal leaking oil - this was picked up in the first year service, skoda repaired it and so far so good. Fan resistor fail blowers only go on full or off. £10 replacement part but fiddly to re-fit. I've also heard about issues such as stuttering (usual BLT engine issue, I haven't noticed it) and the rear washer pipe popping off in the boot causing water damage. Then theres just the usual car buying checks. How much are you paying for it?

I must get round to getting mine sorted out. I hope to sell it next year and I think it'll hurt it's resale value "as is".