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They look like this, but these are 19". https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/19-triple-split-5-spoke-wheels-set-of-four/8t0601025cbkt/

I have little interest in the absolute precision of the calculation, I just bunged the numbers provided into Excel and posted the results. I accept that actual rolling distance may be different for the pure calculation of the circumference, that's a very good point, but I'm assuming (perhaps incorrectly) the difference between the rolling distance and the circumference between the two tyre sizes won't be much different to the approx 6cm calculated circumference difference. If you're telling me there isn't about 6cm in rolling distance between the two tyre sizes, please explain why, as AFAIK my circumference calculation is sound, and based on Pi x D. I don't have a bee in my bonnet here. It might not be a problem at all, but I thought I'd mention it, in case it is.

Just a thought, but could this cause issues for the ABS system? If you change a tyre to a larger diameter than the ABS is set up for, then the distance travelled per one revolution of that wheel & tyre will be greater than the original. For the numbers you've given, there will be a difference of about 58mm in the distance of travel for one full rotation of the front and rear tyres. I'm not an ABS expert by any means, but I suspect that might be enough to confuse an ABS system.

Hi! 👋

As @varooomsuggested, the Autoglym Super Resin polish is great stuff if your paintwork needs a little tlc to remove light swirl marks. I've tried a load of different products when trying to keep my car immaculate, and a lot of it is down to personal preference. Price/Ease of Use/Performance. Generally though, I'd say it's best to stick to one brand, as you can be sure the products will complement each other. Personally, after using the Super Resin Polish, I'd seal it with Autoglym Rapid Aqua Wax. It says you can use it wet or dry, but the stuff really does work best on a damp car. Assuming you're hand-washing, and not using a foam lance, this is the process I use:- 1) Rinse off any surface dirt/grit with jet washer or do as best you can with a hosepipe. Now is the time to get under the wheel arches with a jet of water to clean out that crud. 2) Wash car roof with car shampoo and soft mitt. Mitts are very much down to personal preference, but I like something like the Gtechniq, Meguiar's or Glart microfibre mitts, rather than the chennille-type wash mits, mainly as I find them less prone to holding on to dirt/bits when rinsing. That said, that holding on to dirt shows how good they are at cleaning the dirt off the car. It really is a personal preference thing. After each use of the mitt on the car, rinse the mitt in the clean water bucket before loading it up with soapy water again. Talking of buckets, aside from the rinse bucket, I prefer a smaller shampoo bucket to a large one as it means halfway through washing the car, I use a fresh load of shampoo and water. Again, it's a personal preference, find the way that works for you. 3) After shampooing the roof, rinse it off with hose or pressure washer. 4) After the roof, I work my way down the car, load, wash, rinse repeat. I try and keep the bits of the car I've already washed moist, so as I rinse the fresh shampoo off, I give the bits above another spray too. Remember to clean the sills, the guttering and all the hidden nooks and crannies that suddenly expose themselves when a door or boot is opened. I try and keep under my bonnet clean too, but that's just me being a bit OCD. A detailing brush is helpful for getting into awkward spots like door handles, window rubbers, etc. Don't forget to drop the windows a bit and clean the top bit of glass. 5) After all the bodywork is done, finally I do the wheels. I've tried a load of different brushes and mitts, as well as the spray on "Wonder Wheels" type stuff. The spray on wheel cleaner works really well, but is pricey IMO. At the moment, I use a fairly small microfibre cloth to clean my wheels. How appropriate that is for your wheels depends on your wheel design and whether you can get your hand in. (Now and then I go mad and take the wheels off to clean them with proper wheel cleaner.) 6) After your car is cleaned and rinsed, if you're not going to use any Aqua Wax or other product that requires the car to be wet for application, then dry the car. A microfibre drying towel flung over a panel and then dragged towards you works very well for coarse drying. After the drying towel shifts most of the water, then I buff to a complete dry shine with a soft microfibre fleecy cloth. If I've used a shampoo with wax, I might want to clean my glass separately to remove the wax from the shampoo, or drying the glass might be good enough depending on my mood and how knackered I am at that stage. Sometimes I use a finishing agent like Demon Shine after a wash, as it's quick and easy to use and gives decent (if not long-lasting) results. That's what I think of as my basic "proper" wash. You can throw in decontamination on top of that, which can be a chemical thing such as fallout remover (which I use), or claying (which is not something I've tried). The chemical fallout remover is harder to use in hot weather. Tar removal is also sometimes needed. Tyre dressing is a thing too, if I'm in the mood, as is treating the rubbers on my car with Gummi-pflege. Note: That is just what works for me. What I've described is how I like to keep my car clean and shiny, with a balance between the amount of time I'm willing to spend doing it, the amount of money I'm prepared to spend doing it, and the amount of elbow grease I'm willing to expend in the process. I don't claim it is what gives the ultimate result, but it does for me. Tips: While you're working out what products work best for you, buy smaller quantities of cleaning product as if it's not right for you, then you'll waste less money. If you're washing your car regularly and keeping on top of cleaning, you don't actually need the really expensive fancy products IMO, you can get decent results with most car shampoos. Using a foam-lance and snow-foam is pretty expensive, and works best on really dirty cars. If you're keeping on top of your cleaning, the two bucket system works fine, IMO. There are loads of really good detailing channels on YouTube. Personally, I'm a big fan of this guy. https://www.youtube.com/c/ForensicDetailingChannel/videos Finally, if you look out of the window and your car looks great, you're probably doing a good job.

That's good to hear.

It looks bad when there are a few instances of theft lined up, but I don't think the Octavia vRS is top of the list of nickable cars these days. (There's a thread about one nicked in 2004. but that's scraping the barrel a bit.) I think the area you live in has a big effect on how likely you are to get your car stolen, as well as a load of other factors. Security lighting, dogs, cameras, if there's a mechanical security device (DiskLock or whatever)...the more trouble it is to nick your car, the less tempting a car is to steal. Now, if you had a Golf R or an RS Focus you might need some sort of Temple of Doom security set up. But bottom line, trust your gut instinct on it.

Hi Crowdie! This link may help. I think there was a change of spec in Nov 2016 and Aug 2017, which should covert the two vehicles. https://www.autocatalogarchive.com/skoda/ The brochures don't always have all the info in, but it's at least a good reference. Good luck with your decision!

Yeah, I will not be putting up with a load of broken glass rattling around in my door. I can't believe they think that's normal.

This is very encouraging. Thanks for the tip. 👍

Sadly, I think this may be the solution. I seem to recall that hanging a car door after removal may not be a simple task, but things may have improved in the last 20 years. I'll have a chat with my local garage and see what they advise.

No, it's a complete mystery. No local debris, nothing but glass in the car, and no sign of any projectiles (or tiles) outside the car. All I can think is that the recent high temperatures have something to do with it. Getting rid of the glass in the passenger compartment was easy enough, it's the stuff that fell down into the door I want to shift, if I can. I'll have a look, that's something I hadn't considered. 👍 But the projectile (if it exists) remains missing. Nope. There was a small bottle of rubbing alcohol in the car, but that was undamaged.

In fairness to the guy, and my ambiguous original post, I think he was on about the glass rattling around in the bottom of the door. But I did think it was a bit of a defeatist attitude.

How do you remove the glass that falls inside the door though, Ken?

No idea why this window was broken. No evidence of any tampering, nobody on the house camera. First thing the window was fine, then a few hours later it wasn't. The window is not even roadside, but it faces the house. Very odd! Now I have a door full of broken glass. 😞 Had Autoglass round and they said it's impossible to get the glass out. What I think they mean is it's awkward and time-consuming to get the glass out. Drat!

I can't say that Wikipedia is well known as a reputable source of information, I have to wonder what keeps Wiki going these days? Thanks for giving the source of your numbers. 👍

This is the Wikipedia entry on DSG gearboxes. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Direct-shift_gearbox The torque ratings are very much lower than what you're stating, @Awesam. Where did you get your numbers from? (Also fao @LeGrumpy)

Looks great! I really do like the Octavia in silver.

Come on Dave, let's have some pics of the new car.

Hi Joey! Hope you find what you need here.

Hi Paul! 👋 I hope you enjoy Briskoda. Normally, new members have their own "Hello!" post in a unique thread, but I have to say one thread with new members adding to it works okay.

I suspect you're right. There are a lot of people who set something just as they like it, then can't bear the idea of it being adjusted. Mirrors, seat position, steering wheel. I switch driving mode a lot, usually between drive and economy, but do use sport mode now and then. I can imagine a lot of people never take their DSG mode out of D, never mind fiddle with other settings. I drove my friend's car a couple of times when on holiday. (She had a girly moment when she encountered a bus coming the other way down a narrow lane and declared herself totally incompetent and insisted I sort out the problem because she couldn't possibly reverse her car down a narrow road.) Anyway, I set up the mirrors to reverse, then she decided that I should drive the remainder of the journey in case we met any other large vehicles on our way back. Part of that adjustment was setting the rake and reach of the steering wheel. Days later, after we got home, I received an annoyed phone call from her complaining about the steering wheel adjustment, that she didn't know how to set it back to how she liked it. I explained how to do it, but she wasn't interested in doing it just then. After a couple of weeks, I asked if she'd reset the steering wheel position to how she likes it, and she told me she's got used to it now and didn't want it adjusting. People like her are why we don't get power and toque curves in car brochures any more.

While the idea of having adjustable suspension appeals, TBH I want an off-the-shelf solution. If there was a sensibly priced aftermarket DCC system, featuring, oh I dunno, about 10mm lowering, that would appeal to me. I'm surprised more people didn't spec it as standard on their cars, it looks like great value.

Then that would be poor advice IMO, unless it really is the case that any other option other than coilovers gives inferior performance to OEM suspension.

I am enjoying reading this thread but am reading it with a mixture of fascination and confusion. I love the idea of uprating my suspension, perhaps with a very little lowering, but it seems quite a minefield for people who aren't fairly expert in the area. When it comes to engine tuning and remapping, a decent engine tuner can get you pretty much whatever you want, within the limits of the engine. Are there similar suspension tuners who provide a similar service, offering not just to supply & fit the bits, but also offering advice on what would work on a customers car?