VWD

I've had no problems with FF & Mail, even on multiple accounts, as in receiving e mails. As i use Yahoo, I find it easier to log onto my Yahoo accounts and sign in to the one I want to use to send.

GAZ - First pic is of the package. From L-R = Insertion tool, Tang remover, drill, tap and helicoil. Second pic shows a helicoil "upside down " as it would be placed in hole. (i.e. tang goes in first). 1- drill ot the hole . I ended up starting with a 7mm drill and moving up to the tap drill. 2) Fit the tap into a tap holder and slowly tap, stopping and reversing if the tap is difficult to rotate. This removes swarf from the hole. I also used WD40 as a lubricant. 3) Place the helicoil in the hole with the tang (horizontal leg) downwards( PIC 2). The insertion tool has a slot on the bottom, which will align with the tang ans allow you to screw it in. I found that the suggested depth is a thread or two below the surface. 40 -REF PIC 2 - place the tang remover in the helicoil and give a sharp blow ( I nearly said tap, but that might confuse) to remove the tang. .I used a hammer to apply said blow. My next step was to remove the damaged bolt from the lock handle. That meant removing the rubber cover from the knob. It simply unpeels, like an orange skin, but in one bit. The bolt simply drills out. I decided to re invent the wheel and fitted a M8 bolt from the other end , lock into to place and fit a nut in the handle. I'm still looking at how to re fit the rubber cover on the plastic knob. I think it's going to be a compression job.

Sorry ,Gaz. I mentioned M6,but it was really M8, M8. ( pun). Started after last dog walk ,circa 1900, and then sky darkened,with spots of rain. So I had choice of photos or get it done pronto. Simply enough- I had to drop a drill size to allow cordless to work( started with 7.5, then 8 ) before going on to tap drill of 8.3mm. Little problem with tap, just go forward a few steps and then back a lot more. I ended up using WD40 to help. ( Amazing how much of an engineering HND course you remember, even if it's electronics , where we were forced to look at other branches of engineering). Kit came with an inserter and a tang removal tool. Wind in the helicoil into the tapped hole( using the insertion tool), use the tang removal tool ( hit it with a hammer)to remove the tang and Robert is aunts husband. I did cheat and looked at n online U Tube video of how to do it. Found it dead easy . Shop rider parts are available at a cost. As an engineer, I'm more interested in a "fix it myself " solution. Recent fix involved no more than replacing the low current wiring in the battery box ( drive wiring was at most 5A, and a lot of the wiring points were showing signs of HR, with melted wiring, with 17A wire and new properly terminated fuses.. My 4 wheel pavement model now has no fears of doing a bit of of roading, with the xtra drive to the motor. Hip op- might be nice around here, but my place is also known as a centre of disease production.

Maiow? Someone here mentioned "CATS 2

hAD TO BE SAID.

Personally, I never trust insurance co to not look for a way out. Simpler that way ,to know that you've done all you can to stop a yob. And at £50 a corner- it's cheaper to stop them than make a claim and pay an excess of £100 and a hit on policy for the next few years. It's the finance of motoring. I'd suggest that if someone stole my Alloys, then the must be desperate or in need of treatment. That said, I once returned home from where Swimbo worked to find all the nuts on my steel wheels loose. I'd just fitted a set of cheap tyres to my old shed. I'd one cure- fit a long allen key nut on each wheel, with a wheel nut near the rim to line the wheel up. Parked near Swimbo's place of work many times after that -no more problems.

SEP- something I've oftEen wondered is - upgrading the front discs to something more in keeping with the power (little as it is ) and a tendancy to fade if this model is driven Brisky . for a period over a length of roads with a lot of roundabout, might be more appropriate. The only complaint I have with mine over a love period of 13 years is brake fade. Hit them in town, when cool and it's instant stop- on a DC over a period of Brisk driving and it's back off a bit and let them cool.

Browser- FF. Mail system =Windows Mail. Would love to get rid of Edge idea of thinking it should start up every time I boot PC.

Thanks- but I'd prefer the more robust option as I often go of track.

GAZ - mine is a shop rider. Possible cause of problem is that a) - the original bolt was too short so that lowering the stock meant that the end of the bolt damaged the end of the thread. b) a longer bolt as standard would have prevented this . I changed the bolt ( but i suspect that the damage had occurred) and fitted a lock nut to other end of the bolt to stop the bolt retracting too far. However I also suspect that it's not possibly designed to potter around the tracks in our local parks ,as I've already had to reire the battery compartment with heavy duty cable- like giving it a re map. Next step is a helicoil along with a change of bolt as the bolt thread is damaged -hence the question, as I wondered if only drilling partially from the outer might give the helicoil something to lock against. Next step I suspect will be to drill out the inner 10mm collar and fit an M6 internal threaded tube. Problem might be fixing this to the origonal metal. NJ- at present as a temporary fix, I've got a 6mm nylock on the opposite end to the handle and use a socket to lock the front stock up.

Variable HR fuse carrier. Another potential cause is the presence of magnetic fields from power lines. I used to wonder why rail signals tech had a 100Kohm shunt across highly sensitive Fluke DVM, till it was demonstrated to me that the 25KV overhead causes deviations and this value was found to provide effective damping and still retain accuracy of reading . Possibly you need slightly higher . e.g. my Fluke dances quite merrily on the bench on mA auto range.

It's not really a motoring question, but one for those of us who've moved on to mote leisurely forms of transport- e.g. mobility scooters. I've got a problem with the folding stock on mine. It's locked with an M6 bolt to engage teeth on the lock. Unfortunately the bolt and I suspect the internal screw are now damaged and it won't lock tight. I've ordered an M6 HELICOIL kit and new m6x80 bolts. Q for those experienced in helicoils- should I drill out the outer so that the bolt engages the coil after the damaged thread ( my favoured option) or drill the inner or just drill out the entire thread and glue in the coil in the outer.