VWD

With winter coming on / having a few starting problems first thing ( battery too low ,but ok after charger on for half an hour, suggseting it's not retaining charge) , I looked round for a new battery. Most places suggest that an 027 is the right battery, but last time I bought one ( nine years ago) I got a decent deal on what a local fast fit place thought was the correct battery- an 096. Certainly fits in the battery tray of mine (1.4tdi) . What I found was that most places suggest correct battery is an 027, with one place offering 027 or 096. Then there's price. And this might be of interest to those with the larger diesel engine . GSF car parts offer a Yuasa 3096 78AH / 680 CCA premiumn battery with a four year warranty for £68.34. Lot cheaper than the budget batteries from other motor factors. 9 like the owner)

Local garage ,where they know how to turn a drama into a crisis. Daughter had MOT fail with what I'd suspect was an exhaust gasket fail. I've checked her last year MOT, to find a similar fail, supposedly repaired by same garage. This time, she took her car back in with an exhaust blow. Turned out to be manifold to down pipe clamp problem. Today I had a call - changing the front wishbone, they'd managed to shear the rear consol bolt. I'd suspect it's young unsupervised lackey with an air gun. FFS- how much experience does it take to know that force only breaks. If a bolt is tight, then there's a reason and a decent mechanic will find a way to ease it out. But after one of the partners had a look, he suggested that he'd be happy passing the Mot with a Helicoil repair. On the good side, they did replace the standard front consol bush with the polyflex bush they fitted a few years ago ( when they never replaced the front consol bolt with a new one). Did the steering tracking get checked- that's something to find out tomorrow. If not, then they've lost out on any MOT work on mine , possibly my daughter's and the bike work SIL takes in there. On the Helicoil repair- watch this space.

Resurrecting an older post, but I've just changed one elderly rear cylinder and the securing bolt head proved difficult. I enlisted the help of a neighbour who's a truck rescue tech. One swift application of an angle grinder and cylinder was off. From memory the holding bolt is M6 . I couldn't find any bolts short enough so I resorted to the shortest Allen headed bolt I had and locked it in place with a locknut( spanner size =10 mm). MOT man approved this. I've found that fitting a bleed pressure kit at the start makes fluid loss minimal and brakes easier to bleed afterwords. Looking back at older posts on this one. Could be same problem I had recently- one adjuster wedge not dropping properly and it's sticking until it gets a bit down. Simple to find- find the drum that comes off with no effort and move the wedge down. If the cable is not adjusted properly , then the one side that's tight will pull the shoes in and contact with drum will heat up drum. Possibly leading to loss of wheel bearing grease( =premature wheel bearing failure) or shoes on fire.

Likewise on Pagid cables. Skoda ones ( from TPS ) are possibly reasonable with trade discount. But Pagid from ECP are reasonable ( if like a certain furniture store,you choose the right time). As for cable thickness - the origonal and the Pagid one ( without resorting to a micrometer) appear to be of the same thickness. The compensator- great if you use two new cables. I'd suspect that after a lot of years( 13) the passenger side had stretched a bit, making adjusting the compensator difficult, if not nigh on impossible. Older cars I've had relied on an arm inside the drum to operate the shoes in handbrake mode and the lever had to be at right angles to the shoes before the handbrake was applied to be at max efficiency. The lever was difficult to obtain, so I always followed the advice an old Vauxhall foreman gave me if I had a problem handbrake and levers were not available- build up the worn edge with a weld. I've always seen this method last for over a year. I even had one MOT tester ask how I got a Maxi handbrake to work so well. The adjustor- it wasn't that the grooves had worn, just that in uppermost position it got stuck. Even after a good rub down with emery paper and a soak in brake cleaner and a coating of brake grease it still stuck. In the end I cheated and manually moved it down till I could get the drum on with a little tap. I then tensioned the cable slightly before pulling the handbrake on three times. Bit of a faff on, but I then released the tension and tried to get the drum off. The fact that it was tight proved that the wedge had dropped. I knew I'd got it right when on first handbrake click the compensator was level and both rear wheels were equally hard to move. TMB- again many thanks- I've found my local VAG dealer is a better place to go to than the Skoda main dealer. One last point- on the handbrake cable that stuck . On removal, I noticed that where it's held on the clip etc nearest the handbrake lever, that there was evidence of the outer being damaged with a bit of rust . I also noticed evidence of rust pitting on the other cable . Possibly just my car, but others with cars approaching 12 might want to drop the cable and inspect.

In the annual check on run up to MOT, I noticed one brake cable sticking, so replaced it to find that the old one ( OEM) is a bit linger than the new one. Possibly difference between pattern and OEM, so that got changed out. Along with this I noticed a bit of brake fluid inside the drum ,so a new wheel cylinder and new shoes were in order. One side ( driver side) has gone back to a good working handbrake, but the passenger side caused problems. Very difficult to get the passenger side and driver side to give equal retardation on first click. then the penny dropped- I did not have to move the adjuster wedge on the passenger side to remove the drum, ergo the adjustor wedge was stuck/not moving. Looking at the workshop manual exploded diagram ,and using a bit of engineering common sense I'd say the blip faces the backplate ( away from the shoes). Move the shoes slightly and the wedge moves down. After removing and cleaning the wedge I tried moving it down ,and applying handbrake three times . I then tried to remove drum, as if the wedge had dropped ,then drum would be tight . Whoopee- drum was tight ,so I proceeded to set up the cable adjustment. So heads up if one drum causes problems on shoe /cable change - check for a sticky wedge. As I've cleaned it up , I'd suggest that next shoe change it might be worth changing either what is called in the Skoda workshop manuals as item 4 & 5 ( pressure rod & wedge). I've tried a new spring with no results. So can anyone help me out with the part no's for both. And as I envisage I'll need a lot more part no's in the near future ,a source of where to find the parts numbers. TIA.

It wasn't a question, but more of a heads up. Like Andy, I prefer to fit the optimum cost vs size/capacity battery . I know I'm going to have to buy a new battery before winter and have started looking around. Most parts places only suggest the 027 battery, which is smaller in size / CCA and capacity than the 096 battery. Interestingly enough there's a Yuasa 096( quoted to be a premium battery) to be found on line that's cheaper on line with one firm than any of the 027 types. Last time I had to source a new battery I found a local place with two options and they gave me a price for the cheaper , (027) but kept to that price for an 096. I'm going for a Yuasa 096 at the price and since on my 04 TDI, this will be the second battery in it's lifetime, the present one from memory is approx nine year old and was said to be one of the budget range. So for anyone looking/needing to buy a new battery and has space to fit an 096 , but the motor factors say 027, sahop around. You might find a Yuasa 096 premium a lot cheaper than what the places want to sell you.

As per post. Good few years ago I replaced the battery in Furby . At the time I had no idea of the correct battery and the fast fit place ( who was cheapest at the time decided that the replacement was an 096 ). That was more than twice the 3 year guarantee period, and even today with a sticky solenoid I get little problems. The 096 is a snug fit in the holder and was a tad dearer than an 027, but given it's life I've viewed fitting an 096 over an 027 as an investment). I've since found that there's two choices for mine. Either an 027 or an 096. As a heads up to other 1.4TDI owners, I've found that Yuasa do an 096( stated as premium 3096= YBX3096) which is a lot cheaper than the budget batteries of 027 ( LION ETC) offered by a lot of the big name car parts places and with a higher CCA etc than the 027 batteries quoted as standard. Even a lot of years into the battery life( I estimate the battery was new in 2012) , It only struggled in cold weather and at most half an hour on the charger gets me going. At my time of life ,half an hour is something I can put up with over the cost of a new battery. Again, the starter needs a bit of love, but these days it responds well to "hammer tapping 1a"

My little MOT place is reasonable for mechanical jobs. Brakes, I wonder about as last year my handbrake problem was diagnosed as a wheel cylinder but it passed on footbrake. This year I've had to replace the other side wheel cylinder ( leaking) and found the handbrake cable sticking. Last year my daughter had a fail on excess leak on the exhaust gasket. Passed after work to reduce major leak to minor one. That rang alarm bells with me ,as I'd expect a exhaust gasket replacement to last a bit longer if done properly . They've already replaced the consol bush on the failed side on mine,( with a poly flex one) so I'd expect little problems on the consol bolts. Again as said, I've found an MOT place where it's a fair MOT,knowing that the might/might not get the work as there's an indie just down the road.

I agree on the cost of replacing a wishbone vis a vi the bush. I've a long experience of ye ancient BMC( aka Badly Made Cars) /BL (aka Bloody Lousy) ,cars where the front suspension was littered with Metalastic bushes and the problems getting them out and replacing them . I was fortunate in those days in that I was employed ( working occasionally) for the fore runner to BT and we had a good MT section, with a MT foreman who was keen to pass on his knowledge to any of us /help us out etc. In those days we were responsible for minor servicing of our vehicles ( oil change/ steering + suspension greasing) . Local place I use for MOT is also pretty knowledgeable on VAG. I'm only looking for a rough guide as to price as local place mentioned price depends on his mood. I doubt if this place would reuse bolts. I've seen to many ham fisted blokes try to take remove old bolts passing through a member and with thread protruding on other side attempt to take bolt out using brute force to remove the muck on the exposed threads ,where it's simpler to try to wash the muck of the threads , slacken the bolt off till it starts to object- tighten back in ,re lubricate to loosen more muck and try again. Repeat till bolt out. He's old school .I would not use a place with rock bottom prices . But I do have a local indie .Might just get a quote from him.

Thanks Anton. Local MOT place was hedging on price so I might ask the local VAG Indie for a quote. I've got the wishbone and I've had the consol bushes swapped out for Powerflex as they' failed a few years ago.

Thanks, Lee. I couldn't get a fixed price out of the MOT place, but he did suggest a new arm would be cheaper. I've got a new arm and possibly it might be a good time to ask my local VAG inde for a price. Few years ago I'd have just got on with it, but nowadays with a hip problem I'm more or less at the mercy of th garages. I'd have thought that the console threads would succumb to helicoil treatment.

Anyone advise. Got an MOT fail today on front wishbone ( not console bushes- the other side) with excess play. MOT man tells me that replacement bushes are not available and best option is to replace wishbone. 1- anyone verify that replacement bushes are not available 2-if cheapest option is to replace wishbone assembly. 3- An idea of time/cost if I hand the garage a new wishbone and let them replace it.

personally I'd prefer screenwash. Perhaps one of the flavoured type. Then you'd know by the smell, and if it does get into fuel, it'll burn

Older cars ,possibly pre 05 had an Allen type bolt fitted. Later cars had simple hex bolts fitted. But one thing I remember when I had my (graunched by a fast fit place) recesses repaired by inserting a helicoil at a local machine shop was that he was seeing a lot of this sort of work. When you remark "worse for wear", is that meaning bolts are sloppy, or heads are not as good as they should be. If sloppy, then it's possible that some person with ham fingers has interfered with the recieving thread and the hole needs a helicoil

This might help- it's a RHD fusebox layout with the circuit. I've done it in Word and shown all fuses,so if you want to copy, you can remove those that do not exist in your fusebox. fusebox layout.doc

Thanks. Passed the info on to SIL, who has asked me to thank you. He's seen a few places on line, but most are still on lockdown and he's worried about rust getting further in to floor pan.

Asking on behalf of SIL who has a MK5 Ford Cortina with inner sill rot. Can anyone suggest a firm that makes replacements .Preferably but not essentially West Midlands

The stickiness could be down to the rubber seal on the piston expanding through age or a bit of dirt in the piston. Once upon a day you could effect a short term cure by replacing the cylinder seals (rubbers) . This was useful if the problem was down to expanded or worn rubber seals. Any scoring of the bores and it was new piston time.But that option is not available. Given how cheap cylinders are it makes little sense to chance it.

One of these count ?

Could be either wrong spring fitment inside drum or cable sticking. My cable stuck on second holder from drum .Check cable for any rust etc on the outside of the cable, and if you've got to change one side then it might be good practice to change other cable as one side wil have stretched meaning that the adjuster bracket will not sit straight and tightening the adjuster nut is a right PITA. Car failed on one side last year and local garage put it down to cylinder. I'd suggest that with wrong cable fitment or adjust wedge not fully up, it will be difficult to refit drum. Should be no need to adjust cable ( other than for adjusting for stretch ,and I've never had to with original cables in over 100k, or on any of my previous cars ). According to workshop manual correct adjustment is when wheel is tight with handbrake on first notch. I'd suggest to check that both sides are balanced ,that you check in this position using a lever type torque wrench on the nuts but I've no idea of what would balance torque to meet MOT standards. Post on another site from MOT tester who says playing needlessly with cable adjustment can adversely affect the efficiency of the handbrake .

No story, just that it's good practice to replace locking nuts once removed. On mine on replacement the lock nut could be run up the thread by hand. I changed it before there was a story to tell. TMB- on the 1.4 TDI, all is per diagram.

And if it's any help- I've changed the rear shocks on my 1.4tdi and it's one of the easiest jobs I've ever done in over 50 years . BUT do replace and torque up the locking nut on the lower arm .

TMB- PAX( typos, do occur). I don't know about 8 valve 1.4 petrol engine( I presume oil) filter. On the 1.4TDI- the oil filter is held in a canister with a 36( from memory) mm nut. A TDI filter is more like something from outer space- it's got an extension that fits into the lower end of the filter. Possibly petrol engined 1.4 use a canister filter, but I can assure you that derv 1,4 use a filter contained in a can, with a 36mm bolt on the top.

And that is engineering in UK today. As implemented by bean counters. Forget the quality- design for minimum cost and max profit. As the song goes"when wil they ever learn".( That customers do not return to buy shoddy gods), and goods. And TMP- that might be a 1.4 filter, but not a 1.4TDI filter.

Please do not shoot the messenger. But in domestic appliances subjected to normal temperature fluctuations soldered joints perform well . However in situations where the temperature can rise/fall outside of this solder can and does cause problems. Extremes of temperature can cause the solder to crystallise with the flux and although the joint seems sound, it is in fact a wire insulated by flux from the solder. British rail found this on soldered joints on tracks and changed for crimped connections. I've found similar on Monitors where the connections on diodes on a monitor became poor conductors with age. On a radio transmitter I worked on, all the coil terminations were made with plumbers solder due to this problem. Cure- reflow with flux and a hot iron. On many occasions, the problem can be seen using a jewellers eyeglass with stress on the soldered joint to see if the terminations move.