VWD

Any using BT as a supplier and having problems might like this information. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-56949262

For those choosing an in line combi style boiler, I'd suggest they look at the relevant costs of replacement parts. The one we have fitted in our LA place was not said to be in the cheap bracket, but spares are expensive. However, there's a choice of shower options. If water pressure is adequate, then you may have the choice of electric or direct supply. (That's the advice my plumber gave me). One day I'll get round to taking a photo of the plumbing in the pipe work in our heating cupboard so that fabrav can have a drool.

Personally I've found my old W10 smartphone better than my ones. My old brick has an old version of "Here we go " installed with the downloaded maps, so it doesn't need to use data.

I'd suggest that the cooker types (are conditioned by where in the country (or further afield)Swimbo grew up). After marriage, we ended up in a mobile environment, where she got used to (more or less) gas hob. Then we moved to an area where we could not have a gas cooker. After a few years of having a gas hob, I persuaded her that an electric oven was a better choice. For her (and possibly a lot of our older better halves) gas is more controllable, but a gas oven needs ventilation and needs to heat up the space more often, whereas an electric oven gets up to temperature and then only needs spurts of heat to keep the temperature constant. These days she has her choice of choice- an electric oven and a gas hob. I'd suggest the path to harmony in the kitchen is to let her decide and then fit it. And I'd put 50 years of marriage without ( many fights) as evidence.

If you are really bothered about temperature inside, then perhaps you might like to install SPEEDFAN - http://www.almico.com/speedfan.php which monitors key components. It also will report on variable speed of fans and (if my reading is correct) adjust accordingly.

A quick web search will reveal how to crack a router. I remember that one poster had a site dedicated to cracking most of the older( and some newer ) BT ones.

At a quick glance I'm struggling to work out what you are trying to do. First a 555 will work up to 15v DC and will supply up to 200mA to drive an external circuit, so it will work from a car (12v) battery without problems. However, if the other equipment needs a lower voltage, might I suggest one of the three terminal regulators (7405/7409) to drop the circuit voltage to that required. The 200mA output will drive most small relays and again if you need more power- add another relay (or stick in a power transistor to feed from battery).

From what I'm reading on BT sites an update is filtering through.

Seen this on a BT site and also on BBC -so it might be of interest to those on BT bb. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-56949262?fbclid=IwAR2f0oaUs8PGr66AJZtJWST0-sxPdPZjqHOAcuflQ6GvNxbqnDNnEzU3KRE BT Smart Hub 2 router 'disrupting' home networks " The telecom giant's router operates using two different wireless frequencies: 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz. Users are complaining that any devices not linked to the same frequency, such as a phone and a speaker, are refusing to communicate with each other. BT is offering firmware updates to those affected."

For a long time I had problems where every time I got W10 updates my Wi-Fi dongle lost the drivers. I tried looking on the maker site (TP link) and found a new driver. Problem still existed. I tried a new dongle. This cured the problem for a while but returned on later W10 updates. I eventually bought a new Wi-Fi internal card and to date (even after a re instal and more updates) the problems have not returned.

Andy- I have not measured the replacement cables I bought from ECP, but I'd suggest that the replacements ( trade name = PADGID) were of similar diameter and construction to the originals fitted to my car. Problem I came across was that the wedge adjuster failed to drop, until I manually moved it . After that the brakes went into auto adjust and the compensator levelled up. It's a bit easy, but a PITA to check that the wedge has dropped . After replacing the drum and pulling up handbrake the three times , try the handbrake. Then release handbrake and try to remove drum. If the adjuster has adjusted, then it will not be possible to remove the drum, and the compensator should be level . If the drum comes of without problems, thn it's time to look at the wedge movement. I found with an old dirty wedge, that a lot of cleaning & sanding and moving it down til it was almost possible to fit drum worked. Handbrake up three times and compensator was level. Tighten till wheels were tight with handbrake on fitst notch.

Wino- It was the driver side. From seeing what was left of the bolt I'd assumed it was larger than 12mm. But again. how much brute force would it take to shear a 12mm high tensile bolt. The garage in question had replaced the OEM bushes with polybushes on a MOT repair, but used the old bolt.

Possibly that's the "modern"way . In that case a new solenoid might be possible ( if available). I know my daughter had problems with solenoid a few years ago and a local place fitted a new solenoid. Basically there's only a few areas where problems can occur Brushes. Solenoid contact area - poor contact after dirt on the contact surface. Clutch mech. And that 's normally just dust/dirt build up . But my problems seem to have gone with a new battery. Possibly my 096 is in the running for the record on age -It's circa 9 year old this month. On occasions, I've had all memory functions ( clock- radio etc) reset to default after a bad start session, and I've had the solenoid click, as in flat battery, only to recover after the hammer treatment suggesting a sticky solenoid. Since changing battery, none of these problems seem to exist. I've had the battery case out and checked out the solenoid trigger- all seems well with it. So as I'm not convinced that I have a problem starter ( most likely a low output battery) I'll monitor the situation .

OP- for lamps such as single filament types the centre contact is usually +ve. This can be checked with a meter( Aldi /Lidll do decent ones at circa £9.99 , suitable for basic work to electronics ). Alternatively ,a simple way of checking wire polarity is using a test lamp. Two types are worth looking at. For go /no go voltage polarity a sidelamp holder and a sidelamp would suffice. for chasing high resistance wiring faults I'd suggest a 21W reverse lamp . To find the positive lead - connect one side to chassis and the other side to the wire. If lamp lights, then that wire is +ve. No criticism- just from my electrical /electronics background . Showing that test kit need not be expensive and how easy it is to find wiring polarity with a bit of knowledge.

By rear consol bolt, I meant the bolt that goes through the rear (front) wishbone) into the consol. From the one on the bench I'd say it was a bit bigger than 12.

Not on mine- I had battery box out when I changed the battery to rule it out. My problem was more like a sticky solenoid . I could hear the solenoid trying to engage, but no motor, till I tapped the solenoid. As I mentioned elsewhere ,I'm shocked at the gauge of the wire used . IMHO- far too small for the current the solenoid will draw . For information- IF it's possible ( I have not checked yet) the cure for solenoid problems is to take the solenoid off and clean inside and polish up the contact surfaces. last solenoid I had problems with had the high current wires soldered . I simply unsoldered the connections, broke down the solenoid , cleaned the inside & contact surfaces. I did get a clutch problem at one time and gave starter to a mate in the Auto /electrical trade. After cleaning up the inside he remarked that it was as good as a new starter - and that was on a 15year old car. At moment ,all seems well. It could be just the fact that the battery was ( like me) suffering from old age.

I've seen this problem occur over a few decades of overhead cam engines. It's not really a good idea to remove the oil cap with the engine running as apart from this problem, it can cause oil under crankcase pressure to splatter over the top of the engine and if you are too close without eye/face protection get a faceful/eyeful of hot oil under pressure.

Again thanks, Lee- I couldn't find this diagram, but from a look at rear of filter assemble thought that there should be an additional bit between item 18 /26 and the lower body. The good news I got was that the "trigger" wire to the solenoid looks OK( but to my mind the gauge of the wire looks a bit small to carry the sort of current I'd expect on the trigger . ) , and possibly ( at moment) the problems I've had with what I thought was a sticky solenoid was down to not just an ageing ,but geriatric ( 9 year old ) battery. Extra good news from the diagram is that I haven't had any bits disappear into the black hole under the engine. All I've go to do is ( from the diagram ) fit item 18 into the lower body.

I've looked on the workshop manual with no joy ,and Haynes doesn't mention it, but I suspect I've lost a part of the fixing at the rear of the lower section of the air filter assembly as I've now got a nasty rattle from the air filter box . With the problems from starter I decided ( at long last ) to check out the trigger wire , and when changing the battery I took the chance to take out the battery tray, which means removing the air filter assembly . As said I can't find any diagram on the workshop manual , so any picture /link to a diagram would be welcome. If as I suspect there's a second fillet etc which fits on the peg ,is this assembly similar to the polo ,and if so anyone got a part number. ( I've got the luxury of both a Skoda and VW dealer close to me . The VW place is as helpful as the Skoda place is unhelpful, but the VW stores lad needs parts numbers). Looking at the rear of the assembly ,I'd suggest that it's designed to have a plastic insert slide in and attatch to a peg on the bodywork, with a soft rubber washer. TIA .

I've now got a new battery as the present one is circa 9 years old. I do not get starting problems in the morning, but occasionally get refusal to crank during the day. I put that down to an ageing battery. But I do get starter problems during the day, where there's evidence of a sticky solenoid. It could be a dodgy trigger wire, but I'd suggest that in that case I'd not get the dreaded "click" when trying to start. Haynes quotes starter as a 2KW type, but most motor places have problems with starter types. Anyone help with either Skoda part no or type as ( as I've had with battery) no company seems to know which one I need. it could be the trigger, but i'm not certain about that, so I'm looking in advance. I'm hping that a simple rmove / clean up the solenoid plate / degunk th motor and clutch will suffice. But failing that - I might need to replace it.

op - the comments such as "stuck caps lock" could be diplomatically put as Forum etiquette. Basically it's not the done thing to make a post in capitals ,as others might think you are shouting. I've made an attempt to clarify your post and edit for typos etc to make it easier to read. "I am using a brand new Fabia which the brakes locked up on me without any proper warning .Luckily I was only doing 30 mph and no cars were behind me . Also there were no vehicles at all round me . I put hazards on go out of car to look under the car to see if i had run over something or gear box had locked up, I could find no reason for this to happen, so went to Skoda main dealer . They said it must have been a leave blown on the sensor but there were no leaves what so ever and no wind the roads were wet that is all, then i looked to see if i could find a reason if i was doing about 60 on a motor way it could have been a danger, then I found comments on this sight the only thing on the road were camera white lines . Why have VW not let people know about it, it made me scared to drive any faster than 30 anywhere. " Diplomatically yours. Fortunately after many years of driving I have experienced MK1 eyeballs which spot hazards a long way ahead of what DVLA considers a hazard distance .

Caddyman- May I diplomatically refer you to a message in a venerated member ,well known for helping out with information. "Knowing your car's engine code (and maybe putting it in your profile or signature so people can see without asking) is a fantastic way of helping others to help you with your car. It's listed on the data sticker on the boot floor (and there may be a duplicate in the service book). If you can't work out which letters are the relevant ones, just pop up a photo of the sticker (obscuring the VIN if you're shy) and someone will tell you. e.g. I have a 1.4TDI , and if someone asks for information / photo of a certain part on another 1.4TDI , it makes helping a bit easier.

I'd agree, but from the size of the bolts ( 17/19mm??) how much force is needed to shear a bolt. I'd suspect it was given to one of their trainees who believes that force cures all( and a windy spanner will remove all bolts). After 50+ years as an engineer ( by training and qualifications), I know that force only breaks, and never solves a problem . Sep - I agree on helicoils, if done properly.

Again on the clip on the rear arm ( holding the brake cable to the arm) . It can be removed from the trailing rear arm using suitable sized screwdrivers( brute force job). And on replacement, after adjusting the surfaces with a pair of pliers use a small socket ( I used a 1/4 drive 10 mm long reach) to tap the securing legs to the arm.

One thing I learned in the days when it was possible to overhaul pistons ( new seals etc) was that it was imperative that the pistons /cylinder bores etc were kept scrupulously clean as even a tiny grain of dirt can cause wear in the bore ,leading to fluid leak. And the job of the piston seal is to stop dirt finding it's way in or if the piston moves, air getting into system. I also ,as an added precaution, seal the lid of the master with a pressure bleed unit, with the air valve closed. Another old fashioned alternative is to fit a bit of cling film over the lid of the master cylinder and screw the lid on.