VWD

Thanks, AP . Ive changed two in 20 years. Likewise ive walked into Halfrauds etc and quoted VRN.

Woops, poor kittens . Ive just found the data on here via a google as 39mm , can anyone confirm

Simple, what size . In the past I've just bought them by reg no, but I;'d like to fit LED , BUT FOR SIZE ITS A MINEFIELD

I had similar problem. Carparts4 isted two starter motors . I chose higher power one as mine is 1.4TDI. Mechanically a perfict fit, but trigger connector was different. I fitted a Lucas connector and all has been well for a lot of time.

Any other takers on glove box( disabled by heavy fisted wife). Ive got to take battery out, and radio code is in there, and last time I had to manually program radio.

To check solenoid, put meter on 12v range or on auto , across main feed ( heavy duty cables, from battery and into starter). Try to start engine and check meter. Drop from my older can manuals should be less than 0.5volt . It used to be possible to open the solenoid and clean contacts to reduce voltage drop. These days ????

From my experience of MK1, a flashing glow plug has occurred when my brake switch went faulty. On Mk1, it's a two contact assembly, one pair make (presumably to light lamps) and other pair break (presumably to talk to ECU). I've tried LED lamps in brakes to get same result. Best to check out if brake light/lights light. If none ( test lamp). if good suspect brake switch. On MK1 its a dawdle after removing trim below steering wheel

That is my suspect as handbrake comes good when footbrake is given welly on flat with handbrake off and engine on. I sduspect either groves clogged with dust/worn out. Cost of adjuster is reasonable, ( circa £3-4) but postage excessive on most sites. I might tyry costing adjusters at dealers/VW dealer near me,

Recently Mrs decided to put her purse in glovebox resulting in door jamming when trying to open it. Ive had this before and pressure on door solves problem. Female logic determined that more forse was needed and handle/hinges parted. Q-- any easy way of opening glovebox? Suspect the adjusters on rear drums are full of dirt. New ones are cheap, but postage is not. Any suggestions other than Stealor?

A while ago I had to replace mine ( 1.4tdi 70), and found info on carparts4 a bit flimsy. in end I opted for the higher powered one . The only problem I had was the 12v low current connection. I ENDED UP USING A LUCAR CONNECTOR. tHAT WAS AT LEASE 18 MONTHS AGO . STARTS ON FIRST TURN, SO MUST BE OK.

mINE- 2004 1.4TDI. I run 185/65/14 as ive found them better than 185/60, and stick to Skoda pressures of 2.1 front/2.0 bar. Years ago I needed new tyres and daugter had just scrapped a Renault with 185/65/14, and had these almost mint. Found a great difference so now fit 185/65/14 , but ntice that sone are better than others.

Matt, many ,many years ago , I owned an Austin maxi, where it was possible to access the solenoid. Yearly, Id pull the starter off and clean the solenoid contacts. It never failed, till one day it had problems. It was the mechanical linkage , according to my mate at an auto elec place. Once they'd sorted ot the problem, they tested it. My mate was amazed to finf out that starter was factory origonal . Ive never tried on my TDI .I just changed starter for one of same KW as in Haynes. And with 96AH battery, Id expect it to start within 5 secs . Old seafering grandad always said " never destroy ship for a hapenny of tar". I'd say same for batteries. Spend a bit extra for extra capacity and place less strain on battery in cold.

Slow? Starter motor? I'd suspect either motor or battery, or charge into battery. You don't mention engine . I've got a 1.4TDI and I always use largest that fits. I'm on third battery in ,20 year old car. Get battery checked at somewhere like Kwick fit as well as charge rate. Engine cold will place heavier load on battery and excess resistance in solenoid will reduce volts to motor. From memory drop!across solenoid should be less than 0.5 volt. The starter is a motor, dependant on voltage ( under load) to turn fast. A poor battery/ bad solenoid / or poor connections / poor battery via ltage will cause starter to run slow when cold.

Same principle as cerdit card/car key pouches, theres defender or Faraday phone pouches available. Not expensive at a quick google.

In this area theres been a spate of nick the doorbell camera.

Bit of a heads up. possibly more appropriate in another part, so if so , please move. As folks might know Nextbas have moved on grom the "1" series dashcams ( suspect that means x1x G & GW MODELS) and haver few spares ( if any ) on shelves. Suction pad suffering from heat, tough ,buy a new model. Mercifull, on ebay there exists at moment a supply of suction pad assembly ( the ball on camera comes off by unscrewing locking nut and the ball pops out of suction section), simply replace the old suction assembly with new one and for circa £5 your dashcam is back sticking again.

One other tip . After replacing shoes and adjusting cable to "nip" on at first notch ,I sit car on stands and then check both sides. I then stick wheeled back on both sides and check torque (/using my cheapo torque wrench to see at what torque the wheel will move(/if at all). Check for same both sides. This saves red face with !OT man. Sometimes the adjuster fails to drop properly and rears are out of adjust

Sep may remember parts place in Telford( Hortenwood) . something custom /Express custom. They hold a lot of Skoda parts at keen prices and are quick on delivery. Or if you want to collect , they will let you by appointment. Found it Energized custom

Steve , other place to look is for damage/ rust where cable is clipped to arm. If replacing cable, do both..it makes for less problems with balance and stretch. As said, other problem I had was with dirty adjusters. Next change will be adjusters.

I found that large pliers worked after a fashion usually, but not on furby. Got one of these and my son had no problems getting them on first time. One side (passenger ) is no prob, but driver side is worse than the old 70s minis. One poster suggests removing the hub.. Springs, I use long nose or large electrical pliers. Often with a bit of 1.5/2.5 mm earth wire.

Your friend is a tool. I think!mi got mine from either Eurocar parts or car parts 4 less. I can't find it, but its a screwdriver like tool, that you apply to clip on shoes ,whilst holding rear of pin. The end holds the disc and rotates it Try a search for brake spring washer tool. I find it easier to deal with cable attachmeñt after shoes are off and before fitting. Don't forget that its easier to replace both cables and allow for constant adjustment ever after.

I've had problems!s in past with my 2004/car. Mine was down to partially stuck handbrake cable, on rear arm, where clip holds cable to radius arm. Next was problem with one adjuster not dropping properly, so that auto adjust was not working. Once solved,I adjusted cable to get one side just stopping wheel to rotate. And check force needed to rotate wheel with handbrake on a few notches. Repeat on other wheel. I used an old torque wrench to check force. But there is a known problem on older shoes where rivet on shoe join seizes. I'm assuming handbrake operates on rear drums.

I use a simple way I use the track system to trace a car bit.if bit stops for a couple of hours I contact supplier. Then a nudge( parcel will be rejected) gets it moving. And waking up suppliers to defects in courier gets results. Supplier refunds courier costs, courier has to refund .

Sep many thanks. I've worked on lever arm front and different sorts of rear, but I've not worked on McPherson fronts ( yet). Its nice to know how its held together. So its spring compressor to start with. I'm like other old GPO blokes who were taught by GPO garage about van mtce , and how to fix vans on roadside