NikTheGeek

I didn't know there was a storage box! Got a link as I think I'll do the same tnx

Mine is a 65 plate if that helps. So a mk3.

For the 1.6TDI it was every 5 years and 100,00k which is about 60,000 miles. I don't have a copy of that schedule to hand, but I've deffo seen it. Nick

Driving on the motorway at the weekend my glow plug light started flashing at me. I pulled over when I could and scanned the car with OBD Eleven and got a P2102 Throttle Actuator Control Circuit Low. The fault wouldn't clear and the car was in limp mode as it was extremely sluggish to accelerate. I carried on my journey and after an hour or so the engine management light also came on. I scanned again and this time it let me clear it, but it came straight back on again after a few feet of driving (both the flashing glow plug and the EML). When I got to where I was going, I parked up, left it for an hour or so then went back out to it, cleared the fault and left it over night. The next day, the car started and drove fine and got me all the way back home without any issue. Any ideas? Anything to take off and clean? Any particular connectors to check? thanks Nick

I thought it was tied in to the lane departure camera which is in the mirror?

Where you went wrong is in adjusting your mirror! I did that and my front main beam auto dip stopped working. There's a camera in the mirror so I suspect moving it has caused something to come loose.

Here you go for the climate reset: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WqX5r28AGI

There are 4 main culprits: 1. Reset the heater controls in case one side is out of sync and not opening the flaps properly. Takes a couple of mins, but I can't remember how to do it but it is posted in here 2. Incorrect coolant. You can't mix the 2 main types as it can congeal. But you should be able to flush it through by draining the coolant out, running some detergent through it and re-draining that, then refilling with the correct coolant. 3. Split silica bag. Take the header tank off and remove the bag and see if its split (10 min job). If it has, the matrix likely can't be flushed as there isn't a chemical safe to use in the matrix that will dissolve silica so if it has split and emptied its contents, you'll need to replace the matrix. 4. Sand left over from the casting process. I'm guessing that could be flushed out, but not sure. But try no.1 first Nick

I didn't even know there was a 7 speed wet one!!

I have the 7 speed dry DSG and the update made no difference to my gearbox as far as I could tell... Nick

So resurrecting an old thread and now realising a few years later how prone the DQ200 7 speed dry clutch gearbox is to problems, do you think the linear acceleration mod would have any impact on the life of the gearbox? Nick

There was a thread on an audi forum about changing it from TrafficMaster to Inrix by changing the coding in VCDS for 5B Fee based traffic from 32783 to 32782. However, mine was set to 1023. Anyone tried anything like that? https://www.ttforum.co.uk/threads/fixed-rds-tmc-no-longer-working-in-uk.2032197/ Nick

What a coincidence. I had the same this week. Got a warranty but Skoda weren't interested in even looking at it for 2 weeks as they were so busy. I swapped batteries first (no issue as it was on the original still anyway) and when that didn't fix it, I dropped it off at a local independent who diagnosed a failed alternator and replaced it. Had it back 2 days and so far so good. But thanks for the tip about the fuses and cables under the bonnet if it does come back.

Might not be an MOT fail, but it would be a declarable insurance modification as you are removing an option that was installed at the factory. And you can imagine the insurance company would happily use an undeclared removal to get out of a payment in the event of a crash if they could attribute reduced visibility of the car to the removal of the DRLs. So I wouldn't....

Thanks for the explanation. I didn't realise it was now an advisory to remove them. Yes, in my case, it had split at the top corner so I'm sure none had leaked. But still, better to be safe than sorry. Nick

My bag had split, right on the seam in a corner. But out of interest, why have you removed 100's of them? What is saved by removing the bag if you've never had one split on you?

https://www.hpi.co.uk/content/diesel-news-the-future-of-diesel/hpi-euro-emission-standards-checker/

The EA288 in cars registered 1st Sept 2015 onwards is Euro 6. So you've sort of answered your own question by saying its Euro 5.

The engine changed in 2015 so it depends. Early models up to 2015 were CFHF EA189, then it changed from 2015 on to EA288. So if you have the CFHF engine, its the earlier EA189. (I think).

I'll have a gin and lemonade whilst you're going to the bar. Anyway, you won't get much because they are reliable. They recirculate gasses *after* the DPF so there will be virtually *NO* soot or other particles recycled back in to the engine. So no clogging up and no dirt. And therefore, no reason to bypass it.

The DPF and EGR are there for a purpose. Deleting them, blanking then or gutting them is illegal and will invalidate your insurance.

Already done it. £3.40 from Halfords (with trade card) and, like you say, 10 mins. But I'm just surprised. I would expect them to be designed to last 30 years or more. Like I said, if that had been a petrol car spraying petrol over a hot engine on the motorway, it could have been a disaster, so you'd imagine they'd consider that in the materials used. Hopefully I'm just unlucky. And I now have enough spare hose to do more

Surely a fuel hose should last longer than 7 years and 70k miles? I just did a 275 mile journey with poor fuel economy and the occasional smell of diesel in standing traffic to find, when I got home, that diesel was peeing all over the top of my engine. Thank god it wasn't a petrol car or it would have been a disaster. Anyone else had anything similar? Nick

Hi, I'd like to get a 12v, 20amp supply to my boot area to fit some ham radio gear in there. Rather than struggle to get a cable through the firewall and then through the cabin, would under the car work if it was armored cable? Or would there be a decent supply in the boot ready for a sub or something? Any thoughts on the best approach? Nick

Won't stop it failing on emissions tho...