KeteCantek

You said 4kW at 70mph. Now don't start saying it's down hill or part throttle because I can get any car to be at 70mph showing infinity mileage (0kW) if I momentarily go off the pedal. At a constant 70mph, you'll be using around 25kW and that's approximate from 10kWh a litre of diesel, 20km/L, 40% efficiency.

Not that I am near Rochdale but no filter change for the DSG service ? I always thought they have a filter that needs changing while at it. Do you do it at additional cost? The independent I did mine at charges the same price as Skoda fixed price for DSG service but includes a filter change. Mine is a dq200 6 speed.

That's why independent Audi specialist I went to was 'cheaper' hahaha

I have serviced with Skoda for the 2 years I have owned the car but took it to 4rings Dartford for haldex oil change (+filter clean) and DSG service. I read that 4rings are cheaper than dealer prices and highly recommended including by someone I know. Alas the prices are similar to Skoda dealer but I took it in anyway. Good service, they know what they are doing. I also realised they are in fact cheaper than dealers if you compare to Audi dealers, not Skoda!😂

You definitely are not using 4kW of power at 70mph. Try around 25 is kW.

Get a pedal box is probably the only way to go if you want to fix the issue. As for being able to accelerate out of a problem, that potential situation is very very unlikely. Almost all cars have revs under 2k cruising around and the only way to get more go quickly is smash the pedal. Half pedal on the superb is quicker than many cars at full throttle I imagine. You'll be fine.

Yes, stock, the normal shift point is around 2000rpm. Used to it now and don't bother me in normal driving. If I need poke suddenly, I'd push the lever down to engage S mode. Otherwise I'd use manual on a nice road to keep the revs where I want

Is it possible to add multiple cycles? Say set temp to 21deg target 1am then another for 2am and so on. A bit of faff but you will maintain the temp then.

Nothing some polish can't fix!

Oh yes, the heat pump will definitely eat up battery charge. On longer journeys (and cold weather) where the early bit is higher speeds and then lots of slow at the end, I reckon starting off with engine might be better so you can utilise the engine waste heat in the beginning to warm up the car. Lots of people forget just how energy intense heating can be but on ICE, we just mostly use the waste heat

Try the timed charging and see how it goes. Hopefully it helps with the cold weather.

Cold night? Batteries are affected by cold temperatures so that would just be the range adjusting to it. One trick some people use is the set the charging to end just before you want to set out. Charging warms the battery up so you will get more range out of it. You'll need a smart charger / timer or use the car's software to program that. Not sure if the superb IV has that function. I don't think there is anything wrong with the car, if you read about EVs, up to 30-40% less winter range is not uncommon. As mentioned above too, you can try to use EV mode for slow speed driving as that's the most efficient for it if your journey exceeds the battery only range.

I remember air and pollen filters are individual items now so if you can spare 10mins, you'd save about 35quid doing it yourself. More if you can get cheaper parts. Pollen filter a bit of a faff but definitely air filter is easy.

In a normal car, aux electrical loads are fed from the alternator when the engine is running, not 12v battery. Some newer models with 48v systems might run some systems off it but the electricity still ultimately comes from the alternator turned by engine. What is your miles/kWh? That makes it easy to compare with anyone else having the same car.

Does the trip computer give you a mile/kWh readout for electric only mode? That'll tell you a lot more if it's just high consumption or not using the full (useable) battery capacity. I believe the battery has around 10kwh useable, if you can eke out 3miles per kWh you are nearly there.

Ah x voltage gives the capacity.

It knows how you drive from history so adjusts. At least that is how it should work and what I assume. Otherwise it'll start at 35 all the time and very quickly adjust, and people will complain too.

514nm at 2800rpm is a huge difference in power compared to 369nm at 2800rpm (assumed flat curve peak torque for stock car). I bet you could get a prius to do 85mpg on your commute! Without risking going OT too much, back to the new 280. I am calling it new 280 now and to @Greenliner1, it's is extremely unlikely new 280 gets MPI. You'd have to join the 280 club for the full fat (exhaust valves included) experience!

I thought the previous car remapped had more than 500nm? Anyways, torque still need revs to become power. And power is the thing that moves the car!

Had a look at UK configurator and both are showing. The new 280 is 3g/km lower on emissions and 0.6mpg more efficient per gallon. Wonder if the new 280 has exhaust flaps. If not, things are going to get a bit complicated here now wrt exhaust flaps on 280s.... Lol

Don't think it'll be a collectible car but certainly one of the more desirable ones out there that'll hold it's value a bit better maybe.

You'll lose more in depreciation on a newer Skoda per year than the 550ved. A 280superb still costs 205ved annually anyway. But if you want to change, the 280 gets 30-35mpg easily on the motorway and power wise and traction definitely will be a step up. DSG will feel very nice compared to the old TC auto in the Saab. No point going for a 220 if you can afford a 280 really.

Wouldn't imagine why there would be a difference between fwd and the awd versions. Awd haldex will need it's own service separately, iirc 30k miles and ideally with a clean of the mesh in the pump. Did mine at 20k and there's small amounts of stuff blocking the mesh already.

Shame this whole saga has happened. Having read through all your posts and the various recommendations from multiple garages, I think you should try to stay calm and sleep on this for a few nights and not do anything rash. That is if you can afford to have the car out of action for a bit longer. I say this because I feel you don't trust the tuner that mapped the car recently but now tempted to go back for the convenience. It is not convenient if they f it up again. I am not sure where you are, but I am pretty sure there will be competent VAG specialists with good reputation not too far where you are unless you live in the sticks like the faroe islands! I am inline with the other members here and say you'd really want to go for an upgraded turbo (non stock) regardless of what map you plan on putting on after the fix. More so if you want stage 1 power. And if finances allow, since turbo is gonna be out, do the downpipe at the same time.

I think they have done away with major service at Skoda dealers . Now it's service with extended scope for bit less than the major service price but have some individual items that you need to tag on depending on age and mileage e.g spark plugs at 99quid