BionicJohn

Result!! "Dear Mr. Davies I’m happy to let you know we have successfully recovered the costs involved in your vehicle damage claim from the responsible party. This claim has now been closed in your favour and I’m pleased to confirm that the no claim discount has not been affected. Yours sincerely Minna Jacob Minna Jacob Recovery Claims Consultant"

Posted in wrong thread

Car is now repaired. Looks like they managed to straighten out any dints as the bumper and wing look like the originals. I got a new wheel. For the 3 working days the car was being repaired, I was driving around in a 75 plate Mini Cooper. I won't be buying one of those in the future. I spoke to my insurers about all the the cold offers I got offering alternative repairs. They said there would be a £200 charge for not using their authorised repairer (which is Vella).

It was a 14 plate 2 seater Merc with restricted ¾ rear view and no reversing sensors. So looking to see the way was clear before moving was essential. Plus he said to me "I never saw you".

My insurers are dealing with it - probably a new wing, front bumper and wheel. I keep getting messages from his insurer (the AA) who say they will deal with repairs to my car. They are not acting on my behalf or in my interests - my insurers are. I'm not impressed with the number of messages from the AA and they are now blocked and reported for spam.

https://www.bigjohnd.org.uk/Octavia1/Crunch/Orrysdale%2027-3-26.mp4 My car's being repaired next week, meanwhile the Merc's insurer (the AA) is harassing me.

@BigAde Thanks again!

Nope. After >8 years of ownership, I've suffered a faulty electric window swtich assembly, a small oil leak (sorted when the timing belt and water pump were replaced at around 100K miles), a new battery at 7 years and recently free replacement front discs and pads following scheduled new discs and pads which vibrated like h*ll. A front headlight bulb failed and I made the mistake of letting the trainee at Halfrauds replace it. He put it in upside down. Otherwise little to report. Regular servicing at a recognised independent Skoda dealer pays off.

There might be an entry at MENU -> CAR -> STATUS (done that from memory so may be incorrect) to give a hint. It could just be a dirty connection on your trailer light socket/plug.

Try: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/537730-amundsen-mib2-map-updates-20262027/ Note that Traffic Info has ceased - VAG no longer subscribe.

See here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/536308-interior-lights-not-working/#findComment-5983557 https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/536308-interior-lights-not-working/#findComment-5983634 Photos (as I was unable to upload them): https://bigjohnd.org.uk/Octavia1/ You shouldn't need to remove the whole assembly, it can be dismantled in situ. There are three sets of wires to consider as well, which can be tricky to disconnect. A set of trim removal tools aren't essential but make the job easier. There are small springs either side of the drawer which are fiddly to replace, but it can be done! I can send more photos later as I'm not at home at the mo.'

11 years is really good going for a battery and was clearly at the end of its life. Mine failed at about 7 when it just started the car one morning at -2°C. I went straight away for a replacement new one from a nearby ATS. It seemed expensive but then it was a big battery for a diesel auto with stop-start. It's been first class. 🤞🏻

The bushes were replaced when the discs and pads were replaced in January. The steering was significantly sharpened up. So the brakes were the prime suspect.

Absolutely delighted!

You leave the whole assembly in roof, removing the three fascia pieces and the two screws to remove the main circuit board. Disconnecting the three cables is a bit tricky. If you're soldering, you need to take the main board completely out. I was unable to remove the complete assembly despite having a set of trim removal tools and knowing where to put them. There's no need to remove the glasses drawer. If you do, the return springs are likely to fall out and be fiddly to re-fit correctly.

I can only support the practice of long runs to get the system hot. I'm fortunate that I regularly drive 75 miles or more at motorway speeds, and the stop-start works well with regen fairly infrequent. I sometimes tip in a bottle of DPF cleaner, but as you say, I'm not convinced by its efficacy.

The demand for road tax for my 2016 1.6 DSG diesel estate arrived today. It has always been £0.00 but it has now gone up to £20.00. Clearly Rachel from Accounts slipped that in when I wasn't looking.

When braking from about 65mph the car starting shaking and over a couple of weeks, it got worse. Below about 40mph it was fine. So I booked in to have it checked, and I took the car round for about 8:30 am, describing what was happening. Less than 2 hour later, I got a phone call from the workshop. I was dreading the worst - a big bill was probably looming. BUT - the call was to say the car was ready and there was no charge! I had had new discs and pads in January this year at 105,000 miles and there was 12 month warranty. (Current mileage about 117,000 miles) So new discs and pads were fitted and the old ones were being sent back for examination and a hopefully a refund. The new pads and discs are fine. So a big round of applause for Discount VW/Audi of Hoylake.

Update. I seem unable to upload photos ("Sorry, an unknown server error occurred when uploading this file. Error code: -200") so they are here: https://bigjohnd.org.uk/Octavia1/ I bought the assembly off eBay. It was pretty grubby, and it had been rather crudely removed with all the wires just cut, so I removed the tails and plugs for the mainboard sockets. I had hoped to remove the entire existing assembly and replace it with the"new" one but that's not really how it's done. Not least because the wiring sockets cannot be accessed that way. The smaller fascia panels can be removed while sitting in the car - they are designed to removed easily by flipping out the rear facing edge/side first. There are 2 screws to be removed as well to get full access to the main circuit board. However, during my experimenting I had to hit the fascia panel with the lenses in fairly hard to get it back in place, and Lo and Behold, the courtesy light system started working! So, 🤞, it's OK at the moment. PS: The W5W LEDs are a big improvement.

I've ordered a replacement switch/light assembly from eBay. 🤞🏻

I checked the unusual fuse and it was fine. (The hard part was putting the glove box back.) I plugged in my OBDEleven and apart from some minor errors there was no reference to interior lighting. I did find this thread on the site which suggested the switch in the assembly above the mirror maybe faulty. I don't think it's a microswitch in the driver's door as no door activates the courtesy lamp. I suspect the inspection/repair of the light switch assembly is above my pay grade. 😕

Good to know I'm not alone! I never got round to further investigations today because a) SWMBO had me on full domestic chores and b) it was bloody cold

No damage in that area but mud all over the seats, carpets, windows, backs of front seats and on the climbing frame aka driver's central arm rest. I'm going check the fuse and plug in my OBDII tomorrow. 🤦🏻

The interior lights fail to come on when the door is opened or the key pulled out. All the personal lights work manually but the primary off/auto/on does nothing. The grandkids were messing about in the rear seats with the light switch but I've put the switch back to auto without success. Fuse 43 - interior lighting - is a suspect but as all the personal lights work I conclude it's OK. I can't find anything in the Menus on the Amundsen relating to interior lights. Can anyone suggest where else to check?

I had the cam belt (and water pump) replaced recently - 2016 Octavia 1.6 Turbo Diesel, 115,000 miles - because of an oil leak. The cam belt change was was recorded on the Skoda database according to the documents I was given on completion.