J.R.

In the photo of the tyre mocked up in the wheelarch it is deplaced to the rear significantly , how are you going to go about increasing the wheelbase?

Just think how much better your on road handling will be with 60mm! 🙄 A couple of bags of cement in the roof box will make it handle like a Formula 1 car! Your rear bump stops are deteriorated and turning to dust but they would not do any good now as the vehicle will become coilbound before they could have any affect, a serious safety issue and should be addressed, you may be able to fit new ones together with 60mm cut down sections of the old ones. It takes me back to fitting Jack-Up bars to the rear spring hangers of my MK2 Tincorner and then finding that both rear shock absorbers had sheared off at the top with the suspension on full rebound when I was trying to emulate the Dukes of Hazzard, - YEEHAAAH!

Please do, it would reduce the downtime when I do the job if I can get the bearings in advance otherwise I will simply measure them, I have been specifying bearings for over 4 decades. It would be ironic if the bearing is the same one as used on the Lotus Elan differential and my Maytag commercial washing machine as I have several in stock, it was underspecified in both those applications as well!!!!

Yes but a divorce and change to a less needy, more appreciative partner would be less messy.

Disc yes, caliper carrier no.

Good points 👍

As this is a public forum now seems like a good time for me to affirm my views. Nigel Farage and Boris Johnson should be cancelled. Women have penises. Touche pas mes comptes bancaires!

Is English your first language and how old are you? Having now read the text many many times I still can't make sense of the two quesions which you said was one single question. Maybe the first question mark and the full stop were in error, Were you perhaps trying to say: If it isn't necessary to flush a manual gearbox would changing the oil make any difference? "Flush" being a confusing choice of term, I presume you meant drain and refill with new oil.

Yes, anyone that just erases fault codes in the hope that the faulty component will heal up. Your EGR valve actuator is stuck. Can you explain what you mean by "I had egr and cooler code cleared and updated"?

The undertray is probably keeping the wiper spindle cap plus several 10mm combination spanners and sockets company in the black hole that is the scuttle! On the basis that everything I have lost there I eventually find sitting on the undertray then your cap is probably on the ground under the vehicle.

You need to explain what your "fuel issues" are/were and why you replaced the pump, is the engine running now? Was it before? The pump will definitely not run constantly unless the engine is running, it may prime when you open the drivers door or turn the ignition on but then stop, this is a mandatory safety feature. To help you we need more detail than "I am looking for the pump control module", like why are you looking for it? If it exists.

That sounds more like the fuel level sensor incorporating the roll over check valve. I'm sure I had that out on my MK2 but cant recall where the pump connection was, it definitely has one in the tank which is initiated for a short burst when the ignition is switched on, mind you mine was a PD engine, yours will be a CR engine.

Good shout re the tool, even that may need some maintaining in position when you tighten the bolt. I know what Skomaz means, at one point the wipers come very close to each other, it does not take much for them to clash and then things turn really ugly. I advise you to move the wiper in several small stages testing each time and watching for the overlap, maybe on the Superb its not an issue, if it is you may even choose to move the other wiper slightly to be able to get what you want to achieve. Another thing is to test the sweep on a saoking wet screen and on max wiper speed, there is considerable inertia and the sweep is always exaggerated in conditions of torrential rain.

I am downgrading my 100% sure that they are not splined! I think the spindle may have tapered splines but the female part of the arm is plain machined, that way it is still infinitely adjustable but has more bite when tightened in the required position.

When I said "move it fore and aft" I meant towards and away from the windscreen, the taper will not break if you rotate it back and forth. I'm not sure which you were doing but my explanation was ambiguous. It can need a lot of force, dont be timid, the spindle is more than strong enough.

That is why I said to loosen the nut a couple of threads, no need to remove the arm but if you do then heed your warning.

I would never have throught of that, just as well I held my breath then! It does not have splines and you would not want it to because the angular pitch would be too course, its a taper fit so you can place the arm exactly where you need it.

Do you actually know that such an animal exists? The ECU would command the pump, there would be a relay involved probably amongst the others by the battery, its just possible that the switching could be done in the body control module with the ECU communicating via Canbus.

That was a very unfortunate failure mode, I would have expected it to have made a lot of noise.

No splines and unless its a very old vehicle with rusted spindles they seperate quite easily if you have the right technique. Slacken the nut a couple of threads, lift blade from screen then apply fore and aft force to the end of the short arm attached to the spindle, this will break the taper. Its easier in the park position but not necessary. The real swines to remove are the rear wiper arms especially on the Yeti where they are nearly vertical, the puller did not work and I had to pack the gap between the arm and rear screen with hardwood wedges, take a deep breath and give the end of the spindle the good news with a hammer 😒 I dont ever want to do that again, it was refitted with Copaslip.

Its not false, the ABS sensor is giving an incorrect reading, either over or under the correct RPM, most likely the former, the simple logic of the TPMS system shows this as a tyre pressure problem with that wheel. You need to replace the sensor before you have further problems with ABS, ESP etc. I hadn't seen the replys on page 2 when posting the above, I am out of here now. On peut pas faire boire un âne qui n'a pas soif.

Why do you keep calling it a false warning? It should be very clear to you from the patient contributions what the problem is and what you need to do to resolve it, you should not need to ask for a summary. Replace the faulty ABS sensor on the LHR wheel.

The one shown in the photo is a handbrake cable, if the second one is in the same position on the other chassis rail then I'm fairly certain.

Your question(s) does(do) not make any sense, perhaps due to typos, you might want to rewrite them or any responses will be to what people guess the question(s) might have been intended to be.

Not at all if you DIY, if you rely on garages then everything is potentially a costly issue.