J.R.

A Clairvoyant?

"Inexhaustible energy supply" "Syngas from CO2" Gotta love the gullibility on here! 😆

Its called Bull5hit!

https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B08DNQGRT4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I dont think it has been written that the evaporator was clogged and if I missed it then it would most certainly have been more Bravo Sugar from the dealer. A blocked heater matrix, thats a different story!

Thanks, after 2 Octavias and a Yeti all being pretty much identical I often make the mistake of thinking all the models are the same.

Unless you were getting wheelspin when reversing up your drive changing the Haldex oil would not result in less revs being needed for the manouvre. Yes the schmoo that you have found is organic matter from the clutch plates, all the time the vehicle is running in 2WD mode there is slippage between the plates except when travelling in an absolute straight line and with identically worn tyres front and rear.

You need to have closed the bonnet catch with a screwdriver or similar and then wait 20 or 30 minutes. If you use the multimeter on the 200ma range which is the best one for measuring the expected 25ma or so then the central locking motors will blow the fuse, the readings on the 10 or 20 amp range are not accurate enough and people often make an error with the decimal place. Easiest way to do it the way you are trying is to open bonnet, close latch with screwdriver, leave battery terminals connected, close and lock the door. After 30 minutes connect the current meter probes across the live terminal and live clamp and remove the clamp leaving the meter in circuit, a bit fiddly but you only need to maintain the meter connection for a second while removing the lead and clamp.

Hear-hear!

Its normal, it takes less current than your LED watch does without the backlight and that lasts for years yet you dont have a car battery strapped to your arm! If ever you have looked at cars in a used car lot you will normally be able to see the mileages through the window without opening the vehicle or using the ignition key.

It will be the fuse removal, the same thing happens if you turn on the ignition with an airbag or sensor disconnected or the instrument console disconnected.

It makes a huge difference to the power consumed by the pump. My first ever car with AC was a Sierra & I did not know what to expect, it used measurably more fuel when it was witched on and I could even feel the performance loss. Eventually it stopped cooling & I went to a Fred in a Shed rechare bod, he had a great big Freon cylinder which he heated up with a propane gas cannon to get to vaporise, during the filling I noticed the aircon clutch engaging & disengaging, I said to him "something is wrong there, it never did that before", he laughed & told me that is what it is supposed to do when the system is cooling properly, cut in and out like a fridge thermostat. Like you I had ice cool aircon for the first time and thereafter I could not measure any MPG drop when I used the aircon or feel any power loss, the engine revs no longer dropped when I switched it on. It will of course have used fuel but it was no longer measurable.

The photo was not at all clear which was why I asked the question: I'm really not sure what I am looking at, is it the headlight above and the crash beam below with the bumper removed.

I hadn't realised that the barely painted crash bar was visible on later cars, pretty crappy design and one that would show rust eventually and clearly tempting for someone to hook onto. I'm surprised the panel gap under the headlight would even let a little finger pass through let alone a tow hook, these vehicles must have become very agricultural, perhaps Skoda is returning to its roots?

Sorry to hijack the thread but the OP had also asked a similar question about how the hall sensor works and how to test it. As you know I have been faffing around with the (we think) hall effect sensor on my ABS wheel speed sensor, this only has 2 wires though, when disconnected it has 12v potential across the pair, what should the voltages be when the sensor is triggered and not triggered? ie with magnet in proximity and not. I think I have found my answer and will send you a PM

Good practice but unnecessary, the gearboxes have had synchromesh on reverse gear for decades, double synchro cones in fact! Your clutch pedal, master and slave cylinders will not know what gear you are in or changing to.

Rarely that far out unless it was the MK2 Octavia I sold where I had made it very optimistic like myself! I dont even think that VCDS will allow a 15% recalibration.

Your AC system refrigerant is undercharged.

Spending lots of money unnecessarily in desperation to get no further forward. A whole industry has sprung up to take the money that people want to spend. Changing a crankshaft sensor will not increase the engines cranking speed, 250 rpm sounds like a reasonable cranking speed but you should try and find out if there is a lower limit that has to be exceeded for the ECU to initiate combustion. Have you tried bump or tow starting? What did you do that makes you say you "dont appear to have a spark"?

That'll be the special anti-gravity water unless they were stupid enough to put the thread in a raised boss.

Easily avoided by the majority of people who dont buy cars new or from dealers.

What angle is that photograph taken from and what is it showing please? I'm really not sure what I am looking at, is it the headlight above and the crash beam below with the bumper removed. The rust there suggests that the damage was done long ago, knowing how tightly the pieces fit together I am surprised he was able to attach to it, was your towing eye perhaps missing from the boot? Without that he would have been between a rock and a hard place, using a hook (is what it looks like) on the crash beam that contains the threaded boss for the towing eye was probably the least worst choice.

Have you considered that the workshop staff of the selling dealer probably know less about EV's than you and I do! You never mentioned that it was an EV, maybe I should have known that but I had to google to check.

The only vehicle I have ever bought from a garage was a 2 old 1984 Mitsubishi Shogun, I asked about the service book and the dealer said "I'll go and look for it, why don't you go for another test drive to make sure you are happy with the other work we did for you?" I knew exactly what was happening and when we returned (quickly) he was flustered, all the details had been filled in with the same pen and the ink was not yet dry! I just looked him in the eye and his expression said it all! I drove that vehicle for 2 or 3 years, put loads of miles on it, probably 50K, used it for a couple of years in AWDC Trials winning my class so it took quite a battering yet I sold it privately for £50 more than I had paid from a dealer which was already over the Glasses guide value, such was the popularity and shortage of them then.

Repair kit with connector and wires with terminals attached suitable for any door on the vehicle costs €30 from Amazon France, likely to be cheaper in the UK.