J.R.

What volume is your fuel tank? Fuel light usually comes on just below 1/4 tank, say 3/8, there is also the 5-7 litre virtual reserve capacity that comes into play, I reckon if you are refilling when the fuel light comes on you are putting in 35 litres am I in the right ballpark? That would equal 52 mpg for 400 miles or 60 mpg for 450 miles. I am now wondering if I am imagining the point at which the fuel light comes on, it will be some time before mine drops for me to double check. I think that it is that point though as I run mine down to the last one or two litres having calculated that refilling when the fuel light comes on means you are making one extra fuel stop in every 3 or 4, also Danger is my middle name! So how many litres do you refuel with on average?

Perhaps you made a typo in your first posting: My Yeti broke down in November 2016, family and my mental health issues prevented me getting Yeti issues resolved, vehicle hasn't started since.

I understand and can identify with that 👍

Chocolate Teapot Estate Car.

It was probably checked after opening the door with the key and then opening the bonnet hence waking up several of the canbus modules, they can easily produce a volt drop of 0.5 volts.

And I have learned to trust only myself. I still maintain the cam timing is out and the only way I could be sure that it isn't is by checking it myself, not giving it to a mechanic to check no matter how much I have faith and trust in them, 100% of the mistimed engines that I have corrected were cocked up by garages. Also be aware that your Maxidot reading and that of Urrells could both be incorrect by as much as 13%, every one of my vehicles I have had to put in a correction factor using VCDS, the only mileage figure you can trust is the brim to brim calculation and even then you need to correct for the speedometer/odometer over-reading. You will know how many miles you get to a given refuelling volume, you also know your vehicle is very sluggish, mine will pull from 950 rpm in 5th and 6th gear, not up hills, not at full throttle, well actually it will and would do so without shuddering but there is no point doing so, recently on the flat driving on a very light throttle at 1150 RPM I was amazed to see the Maxidot gear indicator telling me to change from 5th to 6th. Without going back through the thread I cant recall if you have had the intake tract declagged at the throttle body where the EGR inlet boss is, that makes a huge difference to driveability and economy, perhaps the 1.6 has a different system so accept my apologies if that is the case.

Have you resolved the injector issue or whatever it is that has meant the car being off the road for 7 years? It sounds like it has been in and out of a couple of garages, not running, several people tinkering perhaps removing and not refitting parts.......................... I guess what I am saying is if the issue is still unresolved then you should not be concentrating on what oil you may use, the oil change frequency etc, you have a non running car that needs repairing and will probably then require some recommissioning of which an oil change is but one part, albeit an important one.

You can buy a kit with a stepped drill, a drill jig and splined "top hat" type thread inserts very cheaply on E-bay, it has 2 jigs for Ford, Renault, VW and others and several inserts. A better job and easier than Helicoils which demand skill and experience especially on a braking system.

Turbow vanes sticky when cold. I lived with this problem for 15 years with my MK1 Octavia, a Mr Muscle enema would bring respite for between 6 and 18 months, avoiding large throttle openings in the first few miles would avoid the limp mode and need for ignition switch rebooting. Problem went away every year from mid Spring to mid Autumn and was at its worst in the coldest weather.

Not ramblings at all, very usefull fault finding and diagnosis information, thankyou!

How long is your piece of string? Quite some while if its the DMF showing the first signs of deterioration. Only a few miles before your gearbox casing is destroyed if its the Sachs clutch pressure plate breaking up. You have the year of vehicle and engine type for the latter, do you feel lucky.........................?

Interesting, if it were better 50 years ago then it will be even better better today, computers have come on leaps and bounds but drivers havn't, worse still so many are lacking the stimulation leaving the car to dip headlights, drive within its lane, look for speed limit signs and adjust speed, switch on lights & wipers, automatic reverse parking etc etc they are probably far worse than 50 years ago if they ever actually have to take proper control of a vehicle. I find driving slowly for economy (which I do 99% of the time) on long journeys makes me tired, using cruise control even more so, I don't have it on this vehicle and dont really miss it, it may though have prevented me getting some of the 5 camera speeding tickets in the last 18 months driving unfamiliar roads at night with frequent sections of 70kph limit instead of 80kph.

He is charging his battery not going to the moon 🙄 And he is only doing that because of your obsession with the subject. That is nonsense regarding any Skoda produced in this century and no matter how many times a day you type it will not change that. I very recently posted the most conservative calculations based on the smallest of alternators fitted to our vehicles and it showed that the battery would recharge from a cold start in less than a minute, it may even have been 30 seconds of the engine idling and that included pre and post start glowplug activation. I invited the forum to peruse my figures in case I had missed anything and the only response was Varoom who was inspired to do a physical check using VCDS measuring blocks. His vehicle was at 60% SOC after having been left for over a week, after starting the alternator charged at less than 50% of its capacity and dropped back to a maintenance charge after 2 or 3 minutes, that was with an idling engine not driving and starting from a 40% discharged battery. I'm sure you read the thread, nothing that might be vaguely connected to a vehicle battery would escape your view. You have got to stop trotting out stuff that might have been relevant 50 years ago repeatedly as fact. I am heartened and reconnaissant that you have ceased telling people to take their battery off the car for a long low slow charge, posting videos encouraging them to disconnect their battery to reboot their ECU or asking them to post photos of a kleenex after wiping their dipstick. I spoke too soon

Do you get a flat and level loading platform with the seat backs alone folded forward on the MK4? That is to say without folding forward or removing the seat squabs which some are claiming cant be done.

Yes, thats what I was alluding to.

That looks like an OE module & wiring harness that will require coding and also adding to the installation list (of modules), I'm afraid I can't help you any more on that but others hopefully will. I think (others may confirm) that if your vehicle had the towbar preparation at the factory then there should be a socket for it or the loom to plug straight into.

It's a crap design because it uses relatively rigid cables with very thin brittle insulation.

I think you will find it is the lock microswitch. When I carry long loads and have to drive with the tailgate open the interior lights become a problem at night especially as I have fitted LED lights and added some LED string lights, the stock are feeble & would not cause me any problem. I disable them by making the vehicle think that the tailgate is closed by closing the lock hook plate.

That is deliberate, a correctly designed door loop will have the wires taking the longest possible path following a lazy curve, then the flexion from the door opening and closing is spread over a greater length reducing the strain.

You need to show details of or a photograph of the kit, without that nobody has any way of knowing what the wiring kit consists of, whether it is a low impedance triggering relay, a supposedly universal canbus interface or an OE towing module with plug in looms.

Pistons will not come out from underneath on a 4 cylinder engine with a 5 main bearing crankshaft, it's a physical impossibility. Even on the very few 3 bearing crank engines from the 50's where they can you can not refit the pistons without breaking the rings.

Guibo coupling.

Comfort control module/body control module/lighting control module, whatever terminology is used on your vehicle. If you have damp carpets and/or a condensation/misting problem then a water leak from the scuttle may have dripped over the connector. Have you by any chance fitted LED main beam bulbs?

Your lighting switch is in the sidelight position. The buzzing noise is to warn you when you leave the vehicle to avoid having a flat battery on your return. If the switch is on the headlight setting then they will go out with the ignition off when you lock the car, the sidelights (parking lights) will not. You can also inadvertently knock the indicator stalk while getting out which will turn on the parking lights on the side the stalk is moved to.

Thats a bummer, there was another later Skoda model that could not fold the squab forwards, the issue with that was a non flat cargo area but I expect they have yet to discover the audible joys of carrying a heavy load. IIRC it was something to do with safety, perhaps Isofix mountings, whatever its made a chocolate teapot of a vehicle that had a tremendous reputation as a load lugger. Just how many inconveniences are people prepared to accept in their desire for a new vehicle? I would not touch anything newer with a bargepole unless it had less complicated and unreliable emissions junk all over the engine, no stop-start, no LCD tea trays sprouting out of the dashboard, proper tactile ergonomic controls for all functions, no menu driven touch controls, no electronic handbrake, no anything "assist" no systems to drive the car for me....................................... And rear seats with squabs that can be folded forward or better still removed.