J.R.

Another who does not understand how a twin layshaft DSG gearbox works. Vehicles have not generally used chain drive transmissions since the days of Frazer Nash.

You do not appear to understand the operation of a DSG twin layshaft gearbox. In the instance of a downshift to first gear the first gear is pre-engaged on the free running layshaft, the gearshift happens seamlessly with the synchronised disengagement of the clutch on the 2nd gear layshaft and the engagement of the one on the first gear layshaft.

Absolutely not! That can take between 4-6 miles at this time of year, the post start glowplug activation is measured in seconds and is to reduce emissions during the transient phase before full combustion is achieved through compression ignition.

+ 1.

Fractured cables in the rear hatch gaiter, probably one of the twisted pair for the canbus module contained within the rear wiper. Would not explain the rear washers but that could well be a blockage or displaced pipe joint and have no connection to the rear wiper fault.

What year do you reckon was the pinnacle or sweet spot? I don't know when the golf MK4 came in also whether you meant to include that in the good ones or the start of the bad ones. My MK1 Octavia was superb for corrosion protection, the MK2 seemed good but the rear sub frame and trailing arms had little or no protection, the Yeti is the same but also has to contend with the scabby zinc inclusions. Subframes & trailing arms are easy to protect albeit messy with Owatrol oil but I am loathe to do that if the sills & chassis rails are going to decompose anyway.

How long did you work as a crash test dummy?

Scour Ebay for the part number with the earlier revision letter or look for listings with a photo showing clearly that the cylinder and pipe extension is aluminium in colour.

Absolutely! If you also experience shuddering and partial run on sometimes when switching off then its 100% the cause of that and the rough idling.

Many garages have a special bin of worn or damaged parts to be produced when their bluff is called, they are also produced when a vehicle is stripped down for a job to inflate the bill saying "when we dismantled it we found this, you will need a new one.............." The only way to be sure is to do your own work or UV mark the parts but by then you would be looking at them anyway. I used a friends ramp to replace the clutch on my DOHC Sierra, it always had a rattle unless you rode the clutch, I thought release bearing but on stripdown we saw that the input shaft alloy spigot that the bearing slid on was worn, I bought a new one & it simply screwed onto the front face of the box with an O ring seal. On putting the old one in my pals scrap bin for alloy parts (to be weighed in when full) he said absolutely not, give that to me, whenever I have a clutch to do with that gearbox presenting that part to the customer that will give me an extra £95 every time.

100% what Warrior says. Unless the 2.0 TSi does not have that system, in whiuch case ignore me!

€300 parts inc delivery for a LUK 3 piece clutch kit and dual mass flywheel. Labour free, I am worth nothing!

Clutch could be stuck as well, no biggy though.

Good for another 10 years and another 100K miles so long as you keep inspecting it. It looks remarkably clean and schmoo free in there, take care to locate the cover correctly and close all the over centre clips and it should remain that way. By coincidence I checked mine this week, similar condition, original belt, 120K miles.

And a great way of seeing if the fault is fuelling or ignition. My go to diagnostic on diesels if there is doubt about cam/pump timing.

I think all the ones that passed through my hands had one coil pack with 4 HT leads which was actually 2 seperate wasted spark coil packs. Bolted to the rear of the cylinder head I believe but its all a bit hazy now. I was responsable for a lot of new Ford crated 1.8 Zetecs finding their way into kit cars, Westfields, Caterhams etc back in the day. I had a source and used one to temporarily replace the 2 litre Zetec in my Caterham while I did some tuning work on it and word of mouth got around. I wish I still had some of the plastic blow moulded crates that the engines at in, they were like a section of a chocolate box liner and would accept many different 4 cylinder engines, X/flows fitted like a glove.

I doubt it, they themselves probably coined the phrase "Excessive wear" in their manual of how to upsell to pigeons, it's on the same page as "brake discs and pads 75% worn" Tha garage will just be replacing as many parts as they can get away with to boost their profits or they don't actually know what has caused the timing error (the earlier belt change sounds probable) and are firing the parts cannon and replacing everything that might be related.

Sounds like the fuel pump is working to me, I would be checking ignition, start with the plugs, they have a very large gap and require a high HT voltage, they will probably be full of schmoo having sat for so long.

The 1.8 Zetec is a peach of an engine, the early ones which yours will be had a problem with a sticking oil pressure relief valve, easily changed for the later upgraded version, mine decided to displace the oil filter O ring and dump the contents of my sump on the start grid at Lydden Hill, I was black flagged before the start flag had even dropped It took a lot of cement and furious sweeping by marshals to put that right!

A very good view, so unlike many of the other Youtubers who like the sound of their own voice and drag out 2 minutes of usefull info into 40 minutes. I have subscribed to his channel and look forward to seeing some of the others.

Hopefully!

Cake and eat it? Well I can answer that without knowing whether your vehicle has a belt or chain, you got the vehicle for a reduced price, its 12 years old so cannot stand you in a lot of money, you want to avoid the bill for a garage to do the work. I am in your shoes and I/you have 2 choices, replace the belt myself/yourself (mine is diesel) or ignore it and hope for the best. I actually do something between the two, I regularly inspect the belt and replace it when I can see signs of impending fraying, I took my MK1 Octavia up to 225000 miles like that and then spent £8 on a belt, no pulleys, no tensioner. I checked the one on the Yeti last week for the first time at 120K miles, it was like new (its never been changed) and looks like it will go on to do a similar mileage. I pay what a car is worth to me and dont expect a seller to pay me for work to be done by a garage that I don't intend having done. Editted, I had not registered that you have the car booked in for inpsection/replacement, the above is a bit harsh in which case. No garage is going to inspect and say that everything is OK and you can continue driving, firstly they are foregoing income, normally the minute they have your vehicle apart they try to find/create work, secondly if they did so and you suffered a failure you would look to them for redress.

What engine does your vehicle have? It's pointless asking questions like yours without specifying the engine and its code if you know it, double pointless when you refer to both a timing chain and a timing belt.

How did you form the swage lines? The rest was once my daily bread and butter in a previous life so brought back lots of memories and was very familiar, the swage line would have been beyond me though. I have a hand held joddler and also a V bender for the hydraulic press but neither would do a swage line away from the edge of a panel.

Not necessarily a flagrant lie, most likely just perpetual bull***t and never being able to say "I don't know but will find out for you" Do you honestly expect anything different (like honesty!) from a car dealership?