J.R.

Unlikely to get such a fault from the OEM controller, I reckon its a bypass module incorrectly wired. I think the guy has only taken a feed from one rear light and shunted it to the input for the other, this saves running an extra cable from one side to the other, he has further mistaken the core for the brake light filament with the one for the rear lights, very easy to do. Check the wiring connections in the back of the socket before digging any deeper, they cable is not sealed and has no strain relief.

I suspect the reason your searches are now not returning the results is that you have recalled "Four Square" instead of "Tri-Square" On the larger sizes I find that a 12 point socket works well if it is a good fit.

I found out that the hard way!

The industry works to MTBF (mean time between failures) to establish maintenance schedules, yet often despite millions of miles of testing problems manifest in service reducing what the test figures had indicated. Any working component will have a life just as humans do, the mean is the average time for failure, a significant amount of failures will occur very early on, these may be manufacturing faults or a combination of the tolerances of the failed part and the mating part, a part may fail due to the deficiency of another part that itself still functions. Were you to see a distribution curve of timing belt failures from the test data some would fail immediately, some relatively early in service (say 64k miles) rising to a peak at the MTBF figure and dropping again on the other side of the curve, I got 325000 miles out of a timing belt, an extreme case balanced by another that failed at 64k, that does not mean that the part was clearly faulty when fitted, that is just an oft repeated consumer mantra.

Lesjofors or Kilen, both from the same factory in Sweden. Fitted many a set and they have all been fit and forget.

Not intentionally and without malice, I was mistaken with the mileage, I have apologised and do so again for the 3rd and hopefully last time.

My apologies, I had incorrectly 145K miles in my head when I wrote the posting. My error and apology aside I still don't think you have any claim against Skoda and agree with what Xman says regarding your claim and about my behaving like a fokwit 😳

I must have misread, I thought their vehicle had done 145K, that was probably what they claim the service interval is, I agree with you, 65K is not high mileage. The belt has probably failed due to an external influence, water pump bearing, tensioner bearing, oil contamination etc.

You have been given good advice.

If were qualified to say and had the evidence to back up the assertion then you would not be asking for advice on a forum. You bought a second hand fleet car 4 years old with high mileage, Skoda owe you absolutely zero.

Greasing rubber to matel bonded suspension bushes is a complete bodge and I don't care that Skoda may sell a special grease or have a TPI saying to do so. Rubber to metal bonded bushes were introduced to create maintenance free suspension free from grease nipples. They slather grease over the bushes because they are allowing metal to metal contact under certain conditions which they should never ever do, the bushes are either worn, incorrectly manufactured or more likely the suspension and bush design is not fit for the purpose. I would use a suitable lubricant to diagnose where the creaking is coming from and then inspect carefully to see where there is metal to metal contact. The bushes will never make any noise in their designed range of movement and articulation, it is why the company who was the major worldwide OE manufacturer for decades and the patent holder was called Silentbloc.

I always think of MTBF whenever I read one of the frequent outpourings saying the tamping wopple on my 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 year old Skoda with 40, 80, 120k miles surely should not have failed so early, it must have been a manufacturing fault and surely they are liable!

On the Yeti yes, don't know if the Fabia is the same. Not too difficult the 3rd or 4th time!!!!

Your problem sounds more like the master cylinder, unless you are losing fluid and/or can see fluid weeping from the slave cylinder I would concentrate on the master cylinder, seal wear in that can cause the problem you have without any fluid loss.

Where do you want to go? 😆 It will be between the intercooler and the inlet manifold I reckon.

Do you have a 5 speed or 6 speed gearbox? The latter I believe will have the concentric release bearing, the former may or may not. Its relatively easy to trace the hydraulic line from the clutch master cylinder to where the slave cylinder is, either external above the gearbox or internal, they will both have the same bleed block and thumb release. Look here at item 20, item 22 illustrated is the external slave cylinder, it dose nos show the concentric one only giving its part number. https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/yeti/yet/2015-779/7/721-721030/

100% the one way sprag clutch on the alternator pulley and that is after listening for only 3 seconds! Unless of course the Fabia does not have one in which case I will get my coat! Nearly all of my mistaken assumptions end up being in regard to the Fabia, Wino always patiently and politely corrects me.

I would expect Noman to get a tug for having the plate behind the windscreen rather than for the lettering being misplaced. Of course having gone to the trouble of stopping someone to point out the error of their ways it would be rude not to nick them for the spacing as well especially if their communication skills towards officers of the law resemble those displayed on here.

Oh I misunderstood and had forgotten what I had already read, you of course were replacing headlights and wanted the beam setting to be the same as the old ones. My comments were regarding my method of setting the beam by parking close to the garage door or whatever surface, marking with chalk the centre of the main beam pattern and then reversing straight back say 15 feet and adjusting the headlights to remain centred on that spot. I then trace the dipped beam cut off and reverse back to make sure that it does no raise or deviate to the left for France or right for the UK.

If it has the same combined fuel sender/pick up unit as the Octavia, the type with the two push on pipe connectors on top then I would remove at and clean the guaze strainer and check the operation of the inversion cut off valve. A problem with either of those could cause your symptoms. I had a brand new Cavalier GLi company car in 1987, it had massive fuel starvation when the tank reached 1/4 full and ran fine when refilled, the dealer replaced the tank and said that the lower part of the pick up pipe had broken off, didn't see it with my own eyes but its plausible. Another thing to check is that the supply and return pipes have not been reversed on the sender unit, I made that mistake due to a poor B&W photo in the Haynes manual, the car ran but the pump had to suck very hard to overcome the one way valve and that caused air to be drawn into the fuel filter. The connections are colour coded but not polarised and there are no colours on the sender unit.

Correct, flat or sloping as long as the slope is continous and does not change and that all 4 wheels of the vehicle remain on the slope.

That is some relief, I was beginning to wonder if it was all standard for a VRS aside from the vinyl stripes. My comment was tongue in cheek, I was responsable for several abortions at 17.

I will know the answer to that when I drive some more, at present it believes that it is more than halfway to the soot threshold for regenning after 140kms so I think the answer is no. When I say "believe" the measured soot value is as always a fraction of the calculated one that triggers the regen.

"No VRS like it 😆" I am clinging to the vain hope that is in fact true and that its just a Photoshop nightmare!

Thanks I will give it a try, earlier it was not accepting the security access code but that has happened before, it will probably work next time.