J.R.

Are you sure about the SVA inspection assessing the vehicle for import duties? Its been 20 years now since I regularly SVA'd vehicles but then as now it was about safety and conformity/compliance with EU and UK construction and use regulations, emissions etc. In fact do vehicles with an EU certificate of conformity (available FOC from VAG) have to undergo an SVA test at all? Unless it has been modified the only inspection would be for the headlights (MOT should cover that) speedometer markings for MPH and perhaps the position of the rear fog light.

I had not heard of anyone adapting an old sensor but it did seem to be giving odd readings, it may have been replaced before but not calibrated, its something I will do periodically. If my DPF seemed blocked and was giving a large DPF DP reading I would certainly use a product but it doesn't seem restrictive now. EGR emulator does its job, the car runs a little better, I see a big difference now between the high calculated and the much lower measured soot values, the car thinks it is operating the EGR, frequently because its had the emissions fix so it thinks the soot values are high and regens far too frequently. So it is I believe helping to prevent the DPF getting clogged, unfortunately the ECU even though it is being told the true information is sticking to its calculated values from the algorithm. I will definitely try telling it that I have fitted a new DPF, what could possibly go wrong?......................... Answers on a postcard please!

Headlights are dead simple to swap and very cheap, its a shame because until quite recently I had my old RHD pair from where I converted my Octavia é, my last car, to LHD headlights, I sold the land my garage stood on so they went to the dump together with a lot of other stuff, no point in bringing them over to France with my tools etc.

All that fuel being used on the regens, some of it will be finding its way past the piston rings and into the sump oil, I recommend you keep a very close eye on the dipstick level and change the oil if you see any increase or a decrease in oil comsumption if your car was a drinker before. The fuel is injected during the exhaust stroke and does not combust until it reaches the bonfire in the DPF, some will find its way to the sump, thats the reason I am looking at all avenues to reduce the frequency of my regens, an emissions fix roll back will be the most effective I feel but since covid my journey profile has become short local trips, that will soon change with my moving to another area.

That sucks! I wont pay £50 for snake oil but I definitely will reset the ash limit in case it does decide game over when its calculated reading reaches the limit which I still don't really know. As long as my DPF differential pressure remains OK I don't want the thing shutting down because an algorithm has decided that it is full when it clearly can't be. With that in mind I strongly recommend that you do the adaptation for the DPF DP sensor, it creates a new value for the offset, basically it is a calibration, without the engine running it compares the pressure readings on both sides of the sensor and I think also to the MAP sensor, both sides should be the same if the engine is not running and nobody is blowing up the exhaust pipe, it creates the offset to be used in the calculations. I have done mine a couple of times, the first time there was quite a difference, the second just a minor variation. It could be that your regens are being triggered before the limit is reached if the differential pressure goes too high when running, that could be because your DPF is in fact quite full with oil ash which cannot be burnt away or it could be because the differential pressure reading is wrong and the sensor needs a true offest figure applied. When I have lied to my ECU that I have fitted a new DPF it will be interesting to see if the frequency of regenerations decreases.

Good to know, my fuel filter only got changed once in 325000 miles & the old one was fine, it wasn't for want of trying to change it but Eurocarparts did their usual!

I can see the logic now of not trimming the tywrap, if done an owner might have not bothered getting it fixed or forgotten, like that its a big flag to anyone experienced looking under the bonnet.

They lost the clip then and didn't even have the nouse to put on a Jubilee clip, even a tywrap would have been better than nothing. Its criminal to send out a vehicle like that with a fuel line pushed on with no means of retention, worse even than me cutting your brake lines because at least with that you might find out after reversing before moving forward or braking at the end of your driveway before joining the road.

If it is a buy it now and not an auction listing and you are able to purchase from the UK then Ebay will calculate and add on all the relevant charges whilst taking a tidy sum for themselves, the full amount is revealed at the checkout before you commit to buy, I think you can even click on the listing and it will give the estimated delivery and customs charges.

Its obscured by the tywrap tail which should have been cut off but it looks like a metal crimped retainer on the other pipe behind it, if so then it must have taken a hacksaw or grinder to remove the old one and a new one will not be available. Its my pet hate seeing tywraps left like that, my tool cuts the end off as they are tensioned but even when I do them by hand I have to trim them.

If they had leaked everything they would be soaked as mine were, you know how much oil spreads when it is spilled. Your first suggestion sounds plausible otherwise the guy was drumming up work for the future.

I drive the vehicle in the UK as well as France, I was commenting on the assertions that it is illegal to drive using my spare wheel, I don't believe it is in either country. Invalidating insurance is yet more misinformation but of no concern or relevance to me. There is a big difference between "it is illegal" and "questionable legality" and a "rule you have to follow" and I did state "Not homologated, not Skoda Approved", I guess it was saying "imminently sensible" that lit the touchpaper.

I don't know what to suggest other than saying that the regens are triggered by the calculated soot levels and not the measured ones, now that mine no longer has EGR it regens when it has calculated there is 24g of soot yet the measured quantity is only 3 or 4g. Mine is regenning at about 100km or 62 miles, it has had the emissions fix, it clearly does not need to but thinks that is does because it wont use the measured values. My other concern was the oil ash limit, is it going to stop working because it thinks it has reached its limit? It reports on VCDS in litres and not grammes and adds 0.1l every 10K miles, I'm at 102K miles and it showing 1 litre I think, I cant find the service limit figure anywhere. Then looking through some obscure measuring blocks I found ones that had the calculated oil ash and the service limit in the same units, it might have been grammes, that showed my DPF as 60% full (calculated not measured figure) so will it shut down at say 150k because it thinks it is blocked or when it really is blocked? What figure is yours showing for the oil ash residue?

Watching the video the measured resistance of the sender remains the same but it changes the quantity of fuel displayed and I am guessing also the miles remaining on the display. The question is does it change the quantity displayed on a full tank? I am going to do some testing, I would really like for the first time ever to drive a Skoda that tells the truth at 1/4 tank and below but not if it compromises the guage above say 3/4 of a tank. My gut feeling is the algorithm will remain the same, true reading and miles remaining down to half a tank (or a bit lower) then gradually fiddling the readout to create a virtual reserve capacity. When my guage has dropped to 1/2 level and I have driven 300 miles its reasonable to expect with the same driving conditions another 300 miles of range, or to put it another way, if after filling the tank it shows 600 miles of range and 300 when the guage shows half full it should not be showing empty and zero miles remaining after another 230 miles.

I have yes but most people won't unless they are Doctor Spock.

How many mile has the engine done?

Its the Dordogne right beside Bergerac that I am moving too, hopefully I will never need the space saver, I have 3 different means of roadside puncture repairs, foam can, tyre plugs and a mushroom plug tool, the latter needs the wheel removing. If I do drive on it I want it to have the same load and speed rating as the other tyres even though I would be driving slower than normal and at less than half of the maximum speed rating.

So now we are downgraded from illegal to questionable legality 🤣 As for insurance I only ever have tiers risques (Third Party Only) where anyone else will always be paid out by the insurers 100% of the time even if I let a 3 year old deaf dumb and blind child behind the wheel driving on bald tyres with no brakes, if ever I have an accident then I didg in my pocket to sort myself out and not spend years arguing with my insurance company. If I were to want legal advice I would put the random utterings from some unknown person on a forum over those of VAG customer service advisor!!!!! I would not remove the huge yellow sticker from mine but neither would I drive at 80km/h on an autoroute unless the conditions dictated, it would be really really dangerous, were I to tow on normal tyres at the legal limit of 90km/h it would only be marginally safer, I would be the only person in history to do so and more than likely escorted off to a centre d'entretien Gendarmerie and told to drive over 110km/h or not use the autoroute.

It will almost certainly have survived, I had to completely rewire an almost new Galaxy where the loom had gone up because of a coil wire chafing, ignition circuit is not fused, overcurrent stuck the ignition switch contacts together so circuit could not be isolated, as the loom melted it shorted other high current wires running the length of the loom and the whole lot went up taking the dashboard and trim with it. The ECU looked like it had been deep fat fried then finished in a bonfire, there was just a fused mangle of wires cut off with tin snips and a melted blob for the connector, but on close inspection the inner male part of the connector on the ECU looked intact, I had to cut through all the fused plastic and jack the connector apart. I broke the seal on the ECU and looked inside, the inner casing looked like it had been heat treated with a welding torch showing all the shades of blue through to yellow, yet when the new loom was installed the vehicle started and ran absolutely fine, nobody could believe it but I had nothing to lose by trying. Exchange reconditioned ECU's and sending the away for testing is a big scam and always a last roll of the dice to bring in even more money for a mechanic who cannot diagnose a fault and has played parts bingo with the customers money. Back in the early days there were some with known faults like Montegos that had a manifold pressure sensor inside the ECU that became blocked with carbon, but even they were a scam, reconditioning consisted of a quick blow through with carb cleaner, since then ECU's have been indestructible and the very few genuine failures lost amongst all the claimed failures.

I chose a 125/70 R18" space saver spare wheel for my Yeti for 2 reasons, its within a hair of the same rolling diameter as the standard 215/60 R16" tyres and critically has the same load rating of 775kg. If I have a puncture on one of my overnight trailer towing removal runs to South East France I could fit it and complete my journey driving without concern of it overheating, fitted to the rear (mine is 4x4) and driving within the normal towing limit of 90kph, the tyres speed rating is 210kph 😲 Not homologated, not Skoda Approved but imminently sensible and only illegal in the imagination of keyboard lawyers.

The photo was very indistinct and difficult for me to see if it was from under the brake pedal or under the master cylinder, the subsequent talk about the hall sensor makes me believe it was indeed the master cylinder from the engine side, could you please confirm. Forget that, after reading the previous posts and looking again at the photo it is now clear to me!

"Potential fire hazard" 🤣🤣 Much more worrying is that it's also a potential catastrophic climate change event.

That is precisely what I thought when I scrolled down to the photo before reading your comment. I used to do mobile mechanics and chassis welding at the side of the road, my head would be underneath welding and feet sticking out into the traffic, only protection from or warning to the vehicles was the Portapak welding trolley which was smaller than a carry on luggage bag with wheels and handle. Remembering it now makes me shudder but it was just everyday life back then, life was cheap.

Not me!

My MK1 Octavia went to the scrayard at 325000 miles and 18 years with the original gearbox oil, it gave a little bearing noise when being abused towing stupidly overloaded trailers up zig-zaggy alpine passes but was silent again the next day. I will probably change my transmission oil when I finally install a 4 poster ramp at my new place, it can only be beneficial and we are all enthusiasts but should not for get that the vast majority of manual gearbox vehicles will never have their transmission oils replaced in their lifetimes especaiily those serviced by the dealers or independants.