J.R.

My thoughts exactly, it sounds like typical BS to cover the fact that the cam chain which was reported to them has now gone, spouted by someone lacking the knowledge to realise they have condemned themself with their own words. I don't wonder where the oil has gone because I dont believe any oil has gone anywhere, unless of course your scenario happened and even then as you rightly say there would have been a warning well before. Their lies are probably motivated by the fact that they have little confidence that they could repair the engine (cam chains, tensioner, valves, possibly valve guides) without cocking up something else, they want to fit a complete engine and blame the customer for the need to do so.

I think the postings containing the link to the person on Ebay repairing these clocksprings have been removed, possibly because it was connected to the OP, just as well as £100 seems very opportunistic for remaking 5 soldered contacts. I will not hesitate to repair mine when it fails.

£8 24 hour 5kg delivery from MyHermes!

Yes, it is not a nut, that has already been removed, it is the wiper arm boss with the splines, cut it through carefully with a hacksaw beside the splines parallel to the shaft axis but at the slight angle of the taper. Someone has tried to remove the arm, removed the nut & then found the boss seized on the shaft as usual, broken the arm whilst trying and then given up & glued it back in place. You will have to source a nut if you cannot find the old one, M8x1.25 13mm across flats.

Seems I was wrong, but just for info, a seat belt pre-tensioner is not the reel that retracts the belt, it is an explosive pyrotechnic charge that goes off in conjunction with the airbag to pull your body firmly against the seat, not something that you want to be checking the operation of!

Mr Muscle enema.

Good luck.

Bite their hand off.

I saw a vehicle being delivered to the new owner offloaded from their signwritten box van, it looked exactly like on the advert. Surely they are not allowed to do that! 🤣 Perhaps I was dreaming!

I definitely recognise it, I think it might be part of the seatbelt pre-tensioner.

Do you believe that Skoda would assemble their own engines, engines that are common to the whole VAG range of vehicles? Perhaps by hand by the guy who tightens the water pump screws in the wrong order on every 5th engine.

Only if they are reliable and will default to the cold inlet air setting if they fail. Many of my first cars, Fords I think, had a swivelling inlet pipe to the air filter with winter and summer positions, in winter it would be swivelled down over the exhaust manifold to draw hotter air. They were fine for local journeys but not for regular long commuting journeys.

Sorry but I cannot remember, however if you use the procedure shown in the video on another thread (manually locking the doors via grommet hole using the key blank) then the alarm will not be triggered so my comment is now a red herring.

No, I think know they are built by "Roberts" as Sir Michael Edwardes once called them!

Same desire about sucking eggs.................... It looks to me from the photo that the red transportation bungs have not been removed from the battery breather vents. Harder to see from the camera angle but the casing looks bowed between the internal supports, that is a sure sign of overheating from too high a charging voltage and if the vents are blocked the resultant pressure will fracture the top joint as yours has, its a designed in safety feature. Mind you the snapped straps does sound more like an explosion. Have you checked the charging current have you carefully inspected the casing for signs of bulging? My neighbours caravan had the same PSU and when his failed it was putting 69 volts into the battery which was fortunately vented. I would hate to see your new battery go the same way, did you remove the transportation plugs? They were still in the new but dead battery on my caravan.

A human being assembling engine parts in a modern production line, what a quaint notion! 😆

It is to have a warmer inlet charge to minimise the fuel that condenses inside the cold inlet manifold, other vehicles use a water heated manifold but that takes much longer to operate, some had both systems.

Sorry, I missed that despite reading it again. He should try disconnecting the battery 🤣

I am surprised that everyone is looking for (and disagreeing over) a complex solution, mention has been made of fuses 57 and 58, the one for dipped beam should be the first thing to check.

Caravan battery was fine, I ran on that alone for the first week before I chose and recieved a universal PSU, the lighting alone (20 amp halogen spotlights) were drawing most of the 30 amps, then there is the pressurised water system pump, the fan that pushes circulates the hot air from the gas fire around the heating ducts etc etc. I have a really good electronic battery tester where you program in the batterys CCA, whether its EN or another measure and it calculates the remaining CCA and then expresses that as a percentage of battery life remaining (its not a proportional measure) it was showing 85% after having given it the good news with the boost starter and the autonomy using the battery validated it. I have a pulse charger but they need a minimum voltage of 7.5v or they shut down. 20 Halogen downlight/spotlight bulbs have now all been changed for LEDs.

Confused by your posting not being what I expected from the title, are you offering a repair service, recommending one or asking for one?

I recently bought a caravan with a 12v PSU problem, it had a brand new huge capacity leisure battery but it was only showing a couple of millivolts, none of the chargers could put anything into it including a huge trolley mounted charger/starter unit. No long slow low charges were going to cut it with this baby no matter how many times the phrase is repeated. So as a last resort I did a do not try this at home attempt, I connected it to the starter/charger pack and held down the "Start" button, normally this should only be done with a cranking engine, I held it until I judged it was just shy of blowing the thermal overload trip, let it cool for one minute and repeated, I did this maybe 5 or 6 times. Then I found that the battery was showing 1 volt but dropping quickly so using that charger on its maximum setting of I think 25 or maybe 40 amps I charged it and left it on overnight, the next day my electronic tetser showed it had 50% life. I powered the caravan with it without the PSU, I was living in the van, and did 3 or more discharge to 11v then full current recharges, I think this charger was putting in 16.9v initially. After that it was showing 85% life on the tester. Then I fitted a universal 30 amp PSU and adjusted it to the 13.89v level of the old one which kept the battery float charged. It was disconnected a couple of weeks ago still showing 85% life, the proof of the pudding will be how it is when I get back there in another couple of weeks. So even a completely dead battery can regain a good amount of its capacity, granted the demand on a leisure battery is different to that of cranking for a car battery but you might be in luck.

Sorry I misread both NS doors not working for both rear doors. And I can't even blame drink!!!!

Yes, having a MK1 Octavia for 12 years was like that for me, I really had some major catch up to play when I got a MK2 which was very needy by comparison although most problems were inherited from dealership bodges, then once again with the Yeti. During that time the specialist multi-marque parts suppliers to the trade that I used to deal with (even by then main dealers parts counters had little clue) have all dissapeared and indeed the internet & Ebay has taken over, TPS fills the void nicely for me and as long as they continue to serve me I will remain with Skoda or VAG. My big problem though is that there is nothing similar in France and I am selling up everything in the UK and will soon have no excuse to return.

The master controller is in the drivers door, any signals to operate the rear door locks, windows etc go via the master controller and I think that is the case even when you operate the rear door handle or the window up/down switch on the rear door. Editted, As your car is RHD then the above does not make sense, could you possibly have a broken wire on the drivers door loop or perhaps a corroded contact on the drivers door controller?